All these comments are making it hard to keep the cash in the bank, as its more fun spent on the 6.
Unit20 RS6 Upgrades
- Condor24
- 3rd Gear
- Posts: 487
- Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 3:18 pm
- Location: Rural France & London (on occasions)
- Contact:
Must commend you on using Unit20, and of course, my favourite colour RS6.
All these comments are making it hard to keep the cash in the bank, as its more fun spent on the 6.

All these comments are making it hard to keep the cash in the bank, as its more fun spent on the 6.
"Understated uber wagen speaks loudest'
2003 Avant Daytona Grey owned from new. 64k miles of September 2018. Bilstein shocks / Hotchkis AR / Brake upgrade
Audi RS6 C6 Avant MTM Stage 1 & Miltek Sold
Audi RS4 Avant B5 Sold
Audi S4 B5 Avant 6 spd Sold
Audi S2 Coupe 230 bhp 6 spd Sold
2003 Avant Daytona Grey owned from new. 64k miles of September 2018. Bilstein shocks / Hotchkis AR / Brake upgrade
Audi RS6 C6 Avant MTM Stage 1 & Miltek Sold
Audi RS4 Avant B5 Sold
Audi S4 B5 Avant 6 spd Sold
Audi S2 Coupe 230 bhp 6 spd Sold
The Toyo R888 were over £300 a piece, but we had to order them quickly via Demon Tweeks for next day delivery as my previous rears were through. Spoke with Toyo Motorsport engineer off their web site for advice on sizing. The 93 rating at 650kg Did not notice this until they were off the car.
Well worth it though and i will use them all year
Well worth it though and i will use them all year
RS6 C5
RS6 C5, Grizzed
TVR TWIN Turbo Griff.
S8 1998 Audi Motor Show Car. Chipped & Fully Loaded
RS6 C5, Grizzed
TVR TWIN Turbo Griff.
S8 1998 Audi Motor Show Car. Chipped & Fully Loaded
Re: Unit20 RS6 Upgrades
Pardon the ignorance but what are MAFs, Forged DVs & N75?500bhp wrote:Just returned from spending 2 days at Unit 20 with the team.
I will describe what has been done but firstly I want to commend them on the most excellent customer service. Everything done to my car was clearly explained as the work progressed and was in full view of me. Just try that at an Audi dealer! We even went out for lunch together to continue the detailed discussions on performance etc.
Now for the fun
Full 20k Service, All filters, Oil and Plugs (We examined each plug for signs of over/under fueling)
Sort engine management light issue
New ITG Air Filters
New Maffs (I now know what these do)
New N75 Valve
New Forge DVs (See pictures, the also look the business but don't make any stupid woosh noise)
New H&R Coil Overs (the red spring bits)
New Hotchkis Anti Roll Bars (the black bits)
New Intercoolers (old ones oiled up)
New Oil Cooler and hoses (just caught the old ones before a burst and saved a new engine)
Miltek Cat Back non res
Phase 1 Customer Code Remap + Gearbox ECU upgrade
Then if not enough we fitted 4 x new Toyo R888 tyres. 265/30/19 Road legal slicks.
(I will keep you updated on how they perform but they were the only thing that kept the power down on my Twin Turbo TVR and are amazing)
I have not stopped grinning since driving away.
The noise, power and grip......
Great job done!
HAs anyone tried to add another intercooloer similar to the plus, to attain more hp?
RE: Re: Unit20 RS6 Upgrades
MAFs
The MAF or Mass Air Flow sensor (also known as air mass meter or airflow sensor) relies upon the principle of the cooling effect of moving air (think ' windchill') past an element heated to 200C.
Most of them are not very reliable after as little as 30k miles. If they just worked or didn't. it would be easier to diagnose a faulty one. But they don't -they can become less sensitive over time or can change sensitivity suddenly for no apparent reason. Some will output too high a signal, causing over fuelling, smoke from the exhaust and poor fuel consumption, but usually the signal drops giving very sluggish performance below 2000rpm and delaying the build up of turbo boost.
Forge DVs
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/conten ... t=FMCL007P
N75
Found this on 20VTurbo.com ...
Here goes....
As i see many of you are totally confused about the N75 valve (what it does, how is it working), just exactly as i was before digging myself into the topic quite deeply. My car was seriously down on power - i even posted some desperate topics here too, but noone was able to give me any usable suggestions/answers. At the end, i found that there was some problem with my N75 valve (though it was working OK) which prevented the car to produce more boost than stock.
So, if any of you has problems with the N75 valve - or just got problems but don't really know what is it related to, then read more further.
The turbo, the boost it produces, the N75 and the ECU.
These are the most important things which you have to focus on. As we know, we got a turbo on our engine which produces boost. The turbo is "driven" by the exhaust gasses our engine produces. Exhaust spools up the turbine in the turbo which is mounted on the same driveshaft as the compressor which then generates boost. I persume it is all clear for everybody.
There is a wastegate on our turbos (as usually on every turbo) which looks like a simple valve, just exactly like in the cylinderhead. There's a difference though, the valves in the head are operated by the cams, the valve (wastegate) in the turbo is operated by pressurized air. When pressurized air is introduced to the wastegate, it will open, enabling the exhaust gasses to escape and skip the turbo. This will result in a dramatical loss of boost, because there will be no gas which would spin the turbo. I bet this is (was) also clear for everybody.
But how is this all hooked up???
Quite simply. The wastegate is operated by the turbo itself. The boost the turbo produces is directly fed to its own wastegate. What does this mean? When the turbo spools up, it will create boost and this boost will open its own wastegate, shutting itself automatically down.
But where's boost control? And wheres ECU?
Here comes the N75 valve. The N75 valve is inserted between the turbo's high pressure output and the wastegate. If the turbo would directly linked to the wastegate, it would not be able to produce lets say more than 0.3-0.4 bar of boost, because it would shut itself down immediately. When the ECU wants more boost (because you are stepping on it for example), it WENTS some air from this loop (turbo--->wastegate) so the wastegate will not open at all, or will open later.
The N75 has got 1 boost input, and 2 outputs. At the input, boost is entering into the N75 and exits on one of the outputs going to the wastegate. When N75 is closed (default state), all the boost goes to the wastegate. When ECU opens the N75 valve (because it has got an electrical plug too coming from ECU), so when ECU opens it, some of this boost (which would operate the wastegate) is leaving/leaking back to the inlet (and not opening wastegate). Since the N75 valve has NO state in between, is is opened or closed. The ECU switches it ON/OFF all the time (several times a second) to generate the desired amount of boost. Doesn't it reminds you to something???? ... Yeah, it's surging. But it is absolutely normal, this is how ECU controls the wastegate. When a car is chipped, the boost is a LOT higher than it is designed to operate on, so this kind of boost control will be noticable.
By adjusting the N75 valve, you can adjust the amount of air which should leave when the N75 is opened. If you adjust the N75 to the right, you will "close" the N75 valve, so just a few amounts of air is wented from the wastegate which will result in a lot smoother drive (eliminating surging, because the boost will be more constant), BUT at the same time it will introduce more boost to the wastegate, causing LESS overall boost. Adjusting the N75 valve to the left will "open" it, enabling more air to escape from the wastegate when N75 is opened, which will result in more boost (coz wastegate wont open), BUT at the same time it MAY cause surging as the N75 opening/closing will be more obvious
The MAF or Mass Air Flow sensor (also known as air mass meter or airflow sensor) relies upon the principle of the cooling effect of moving air (think ' windchill') past an element heated to 200C.
Most of them are not very reliable after as little as 30k miles. If they just worked or didn't. it would be easier to diagnose a faulty one. But they don't -they can become less sensitive over time or can change sensitivity suddenly for no apparent reason. Some will output too high a signal, causing over fuelling, smoke from the exhaust and poor fuel consumption, but usually the signal drops giving very sluggish performance below 2000rpm and delaying the build up of turbo boost.
Forge DVs
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/conten ... t=FMCL007P
N75
Found this on 20VTurbo.com ...
Here goes....
As i see many of you are totally confused about the N75 valve (what it does, how is it working), just exactly as i was before digging myself into the topic quite deeply. My car was seriously down on power - i even posted some desperate topics here too, but noone was able to give me any usable suggestions/answers. At the end, i found that there was some problem with my N75 valve (though it was working OK) which prevented the car to produce more boost than stock.
So, if any of you has problems with the N75 valve - or just got problems but don't really know what is it related to, then read more further.
The turbo, the boost it produces, the N75 and the ECU.
These are the most important things which you have to focus on. As we know, we got a turbo on our engine which produces boost. The turbo is "driven" by the exhaust gasses our engine produces. Exhaust spools up the turbine in the turbo which is mounted on the same driveshaft as the compressor which then generates boost. I persume it is all clear for everybody.
There is a wastegate on our turbos (as usually on every turbo) which looks like a simple valve, just exactly like in the cylinderhead. There's a difference though, the valves in the head are operated by the cams, the valve (wastegate) in the turbo is operated by pressurized air. When pressurized air is introduced to the wastegate, it will open, enabling the exhaust gasses to escape and skip the turbo. This will result in a dramatical loss of boost, because there will be no gas which would spin the turbo. I bet this is (was) also clear for everybody.
But how is this all hooked up???
Quite simply. The wastegate is operated by the turbo itself. The boost the turbo produces is directly fed to its own wastegate. What does this mean? When the turbo spools up, it will create boost and this boost will open its own wastegate, shutting itself automatically down.
But where's boost control? And wheres ECU?
Here comes the N75 valve. The N75 valve is inserted between the turbo's high pressure output and the wastegate. If the turbo would directly linked to the wastegate, it would not be able to produce lets say more than 0.3-0.4 bar of boost, because it would shut itself down immediately. When the ECU wants more boost (because you are stepping on it for example), it WENTS some air from this loop (turbo--->wastegate) so the wastegate will not open at all, or will open later.
The N75 has got 1 boost input, and 2 outputs. At the input, boost is entering into the N75 and exits on one of the outputs going to the wastegate. When N75 is closed (default state), all the boost goes to the wastegate. When ECU opens the N75 valve (because it has got an electrical plug too coming from ECU), so when ECU opens it, some of this boost (which would operate the wastegate) is leaving/leaking back to the inlet (and not opening wastegate). Since the N75 valve has NO state in between, is is opened or closed. The ECU switches it ON/OFF all the time (several times a second) to generate the desired amount of boost. Doesn't it reminds you to something???? ... Yeah, it's surging. But it is absolutely normal, this is how ECU controls the wastegate. When a car is chipped, the boost is a LOT higher than it is designed to operate on, so this kind of boost control will be noticable.
By adjusting the N75 valve, you can adjust the amount of air which should leave when the N75 is opened. If you adjust the N75 to the right, you will "close" the N75 valve, so just a few amounts of air is wented from the wastegate which will result in a lot smoother drive (eliminating surging, because the boost will be more constant), BUT at the same time it will introduce more boost to the wastegate, causing LESS overall boost. Adjusting the N75 valve to the left will "open" it, enabling more air to escape from the wastegate when N75 is opened, which will result in more boost (coz wastegate wont open), BUT at the same time it MAY cause surging as the N75 opening/closing will be more obvious
RS6 C5
RS6 C5, Grizzed
TVR TWIN Turbo Griff.
S8 1998 Audi Motor Show Car. Chipped & Fully Loaded
RS6 C5, Grizzed
TVR TWIN Turbo Griff.
S8 1998 Audi Motor Show Car. Chipped & Fully Loaded
i put them on my zafira GSI before i sold it, (312bhp 377lb/ft ) it used to spin the front wheelsall the time but Parada spec 2 were the best it had and was very impressed.DNA540i wrote:they are a sexy tyre indeed. I was going to use 888's myself but they dont make them for my wheel size. Does anybody run yokohama Parada spec 2's on their cars? i use them on my current car and they are great in the dry and behave perfectly well enough in the wet too.
Have those tyres been chewed up yet?
Daytona Grey (C5) RS6 saloon, but just a little better...
**** SOLD!!!
****
KW V3 suspension
390mm C6 Brakes
Hotchkis ARBs
Viper Tuning (537bhp 604lbft)
Unit 20 TCU remap
Milltek non-res exhaust and downpipes
100 cell sport cats
Aero wipers
Winter wheels
Wagner intercoolers
LED interior lights
Tesla Model S 85D
All the options with the exception of stupid air suspension
Tesla Model X 60D
Silly doors and all!
**** SOLD!!!
KW V3 suspension
390mm C6 Brakes
Hotchkis ARBs
Viper Tuning (537bhp 604lbft)
Unit 20 TCU remap
Milltek non-res exhaust and downpipes
100 cell sport cats
Aero wipers
Winter wheels
Wagner intercoolers
LED interior lights
Tesla Model S 85D
All the options with the exception of stupid air suspension
Tesla Model X 60D
Silly doors and all!
-
deanobeano
- 3rd Gear
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:12 pm
I guess the R888s are dead by now?
Daytona Grey (C5) RS6 saloon, but just a little better...
**** SOLD!!!
****
KW V3 suspension
390mm C6 Brakes
Hotchkis ARBs
Viper Tuning (537bhp 604lbft)
Unit 20 TCU remap
Milltek non-res exhaust and downpipes
100 cell sport cats
Aero wipers
Winter wheels
Wagner intercoolers
LED interior lights
Tesla Model S 85D
All the options with the exception of stupid air suspension
Tesla Model X 60D
Silly doors and all!
**** SOLD!!!
KW V3 suspension
390mm C6 Brakes
Hotchkis ARBs
Viper Tuning (537bhp 604lbft)
Unit 20 TCU remap
Milltek non-res exhaust and downpipes
100 cell sport cats
Aero wipers
Winter wheels
Wagner intercoolers
LED interior lights
Tesla Model S 85D
All the options with the exception of stupid air suspension
Tesla Model X 60D
Silly doors and all!
PS.
Had the full Stage 2 job done now.
No Cats
New Brakes
Boost gauge
Shift lights from http://www.shift-i.co.uk/main_win_sep06.html
(both are removable if required for un-mod look)
Just enjoying it now.......
So for less than £25k spent, I now have in my opinion the very best car that I have driven.
Can take 5 adults on an airport run
Can take the dog out.
Wife can drive in auto to JLP and shop.
I can wipe the floor with most "Supercars".
Unless you know what RS6 means, people think its grey estate..!
Had the full Stage 2 job done now.
No Cats
New Brakes
Boost gauge
Shift lights from http://www.shift-i.co.uk/main_win_sep06.html
(both are removable if required for un-mod look)
Just enjoying it now.......
So for less than £25k spent, I now have in my opinion the very best car that I have driven.
Can take 5 adults on an airport run
Can take the dog out.
Wife can drive in auto to JLP and shop.
I can wipe the floor with most "Supercars".
Unless you know what RS6 means, people think its grey estate..!
RS6 C5
RS6 C5, Grizzed
TVR TWIN Turbo Griff.
S8 1998 Audi Motor Show Car. Chipped & Fully Loaded
RS6 C5, Grizzed
TVR TWIN Turbo Griff.
S8 1998 Audi Motor Show Car. Chipped & Fully Loaded
Fantastic!! Can't fault you at all.
Present:...
Lotus Evora GT410 Sport, Caterham 420R, CCM Spitfire, VW T2 Bay Window 1976
Past:
DB11 AMR, 992, 991.2, Yamaha MT01, 640d Gran Coupe, 635d Coupe, RS6 C5, Audi TT 225 Coupe, Astra with wind up windows, Citroen ZX, Rover 213, yes behold, a Rover 213... Renault 5
Lotus Evora GT410 Sport, Caterham 420R, CCM Spitfire, VW T2 Bay Window 1976
Past:
DB11 AMR, 992, 991.2, Yamaha MT01, 640d Gran Coupe, 635d Coupe, RS6 C5, Audi TT 225 Coupe, Astra with wind up windows, Citroen ZX, Rover 213, yes behold, a Rover 213... Renault 5
what figures are you / the car putting out now on stage 2 ?
Now : XFR Jag 5.0 Supercharged
Used to have : C5 Daytona Avant , silver leather , carbon inserts ; RNSE, TV in motion, Bluetooth , well filled SD card slots ; PSS9's ; Hotchkiss ARB's ; Miltek cat back res ; Wagner intercoolers ; Phaeton brake ducts ; forge DV's ;
Used to have : C5 Daytona Avant , silver leather , carbon inserts ; RNSE, TV in motion, Bluetooth , well filled SD card slots ; PSS9's ; Hotchkiss ARB's ; Miltek cat back res ; Wagner intercoolers ; Phaeton brake ducts ; forge DV's ;
20p a mile just on the rubber 
Daytona Grey (C5) RS6 saloon, but just a little better...
**** SOLD!!!
****
KW V3 suspension
390mm C6 Brakes
Hotchkis ARBs
Viper Tuning (537bhp 604lbft)
Unit 20 TCU remap
Milltek non-res exhaust and downpipes
100 cell sport cats
Aero wipers
Winter wheels
Wagner intercoolers
LED interior lights
Tesla Model S 85D
All the options with the exception of stupid air suspension
Tesla Model X 60D
Silly doors and all!
**** SOLD!!!
KW V3 suspension
390mm C6 Brakes
Hotchkis ARBs
Viper Tuning (537bhp 604lbft)
Unit 20 TCU remap
Milltek non-res exhaust and downpipes
100 cell sport cats
Aero wipers
Winter wheels
Wagner intercoolers
LED interior lights
Tesla Model S 85D
All the options with the exception of stupid air suspension
Tesla Model X 60D
Silly doors and all!
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