Need help with coolant hose missing from my car

[TOPMAN]

I found a before picture, if anyone is interested on how to bypass the auxiliary water pump. I mean, the amount of work necessary to get to that pump is not to be ignored, and I think a leak developed there at some point and the previous owner deleted it to save future headaches. You just have to remember to let the car idle for a while after a spirited drive….
Anyway, it was just an aluminum pipe.
On the 2.7T engine this pump works for sure every single time I drive after the low temperature coolant sensor mod. Actually it works so well that when I had a coolant leak it was shooting coolant through there after I turned off the engine.

WOW! What a hot oily mess.
Looks like you have plenty of crankcase pressure and possible PCV issue. Looks like you are burning plenty of oil too. I'd take everything out and clean, clean, clean. Clean and replace if necessary all those breather hoses as they will be full of crusty old oil. These engines require clear nasal passages to work properly and deliver top power.
Is this a North American car and if so can you confirm that is has the option code 8Z9 on the build Sticker. It looks it has the additional plumbing for a Super Hot Country car. European cars typically have the pump mounted on the underside of the intake manifold, yours is mounted to the top of the oil catch tank in the block. I have seen this before, but only in photos.

Below I have attached images of the 8Z9 plumbing, it's a ball of spaghetti but makes sense if you stare at it long enough

What are your intentions for the car? Keep it or flip it?

Regards
Craig

[111marc111]

From your description you have the same scenario that I bought my car with.
My radiator had been replaced prior to me buying the car which prompted me to look into it all.
I too had a bolt up the pipe and a jubilee clip by the aircon pump at where clip 33 is on the first diagram above.
New radiators of the 5 outlet design are no longer available.
I now have one I found second hand in good condition. But I ran my car for 2years with the bolt blocking the 5th hose as mentioned.
My understanding was the after run pumps only run after the engine is switched off under certain conditions to keep the turbos cooling down gently. But if you don't drive like a knob right up to your front door and then just switch the engine off the pump won't be required.
Whether that is 100% true or not I'm not sure. But I've never heard my pump running, but I've also not tried really hard to listen. I'm also very sympathetic when i warm the car up and when I'm near turning it off.
If you want it right you'll need to track down the correct radiator obviously. Which won't be easy! But in my opinion running it as it is with a bolt blocking it for now won't be detrimental

[srichards]

Has anyone gone old school with this and fitted a turbo timer that just leaves the car idling for a couple of minutes after switch off instead?

[Shoppinit]

I went even older school with this the other day and left the car running while I went into the house. About an hour later I suddenly remembered the car was still idling and rushed back to find it running on fumes. But the engine was at the correct temperature to turn off at least.

[TOPMAN]

Has anyone gone old school with this and fitted a turbo timer that just leaves the car idling for a couple of minutes after switch off instead?

Haha! I used turbo timers on my old Ford RS cars.
The idea is not awful, let’s say it’s better than nothing.

But Audis solution is much better, hence the reason most VAG turbo cars use it today. Generally speaking you want to reduce your exhaust temperatures to reasonable level. I’m not sure what the BCY/BRV EGT temps can reach, maybe 900°C or more depending on tune. You want to get that down to a more reasonable 200°C so that you don’t boil the water in the turbos and create air in your cooling system. Idling your car for 5-10mins will get the temperature down and generally a good idea even if your secondary water pump IS working. But allowing the car to idle and then allowing the ECU to flow water through the turbos for 15 minutes after switch off is best. Best for turbos, best for cooling system and best for oil and bearings in the turbos.


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[TOPMAN]

AllRoadAdi

I found this diagram today in one of my American service manuals, it looks like your plumbing.
Maybe it helps?

[allroadadi]

Yes, it seems that my car does have the bolt in the hose by where 32 in the diagram is.
Thanks for all the responses , and the opinions. But what I wanted to know is basically what the F**k is that bar/metal pipe on top of the radiator(green arrow in picture which is a screen shot from a video on YouTube). Initially I thought that the previous owner removed the auxiliary pump and that bar/metal pipe (see attached picture) as it would have been part of the system and blocked off the hose right before that bar/pipe… But looking at the diagram it looks like the blocked off hose connects to some other pump thingy and then the bottom of the radiator.

[TOPMAN]

Hi
You ask about that horizontally mounted pipe.
If you study the last diagram I posted, you’ll see that it connects to each mini radiator that sit behind each intercooler.
I mention above that you probably have the plumbing and extra cooling that comes with the 8Z9 Super Hot County package and that you are probably in North America, can you confirm?


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[allroadadi]

No. I don’t think I have that plumbing. To be honest, the radiator only has 2 connections. Both on the right side of the engine, one at the top, one at the bottom; and no mini radiators by the inter coolers . I wish it did… I am in North America, though.

[allroadadi]

I looked at that diagram before as well as it comes in the service manual, but since I don’t have the intercooler radiators I figured that the pipe would just be solely for the after run pump. But it seems I was wrong.