All wrapped up for the winter
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Black that's a rare beast on the C5
2018 B9 RS4 Navarra Blue
2013 B8 RS4 Sepang Blue
2007 B7 RS4 Avant Sprint Blue
2001 B5 RS4 Nogaro Blue
1998 B5 S4 Avant Kingfisher Blue
1993 B4 S2 Avant laser Red
2013 B8 RS4 Sepang Blue
2007 B7 RS4 Avant Sprint Blue
2001 B5 RS4 Nogaro Blue
1998 B5 S4 Avant Kingfisher Blue
1993 B4 S2 Avant laser Red
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Fastest colour!#FACTMattV8 wrote:I just had to check it was a real car under there and not boxes.....
It needs a polish, too.
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c5 rs6 owner thats been known to cut the wrong wire.............
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Thanks - I like it. And it's, I think, very unusual in having black alcantara with aluminium interior & alcantara steering wheel too - really looks sharp IMVHO. Most of the black ones I see have the white leather interior, which I really don't like. Black leather is nice - but the alcantara is gorgeous. Not seen another one like it, although sure there must be.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Mine had alcantara when I bought it, but sold it.
previous- Pug 205 gti, 306 gti, 309 gti Goodwood.
Audi S3, S4 V8 avant.
Porsche Macan Turbo.
Gone but NEVER forgotten - C5 RS6 Misano red avant.
Now - Empty garage
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there!
Audi S3, S4 V8 avant.
Porsche Macan Turbo.
Gone but NEVER forgotten - C5 RS6 Misano red avant.
Now - Empty garage
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there!
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
I meant the overall spec, not just the alcantara wheel.
Actually, my favourite 2 specs would be black with charcoal alcantara, or red with black leather. Not such a fan of the silver or blue on these cars and I don't like light coloured leather on any car. I'm obvs in the minority though given how many cars I see for sale with white or beige leather interiors.
Actually, my favourite 2 specs would be black with charcoal alcantara, or red with black leather. Not such a fan of the silver or blue on these cars and I don't like light coloured leather on any car. I'm obvs in the minority though given how many cars I see for sale with white or beige leather interiors.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Yeah, I like the suicide black interior, too. I originally thought I wanted light leather but I'm glad I got the black.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Car covers are bad Yo !
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Mugello blue with all black interior is naughty. I’d like to see one with black external optics as I do like that option however have only seen the RS6+ in sprint blue with black optics.
If anyone has a pic of the Mugello blue with black optics please fire up a picture
If anyone has a pic of the Mugello blue with black optics please fire up a picture
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
What's black optics? Headlight mod?
I have a mugello with the black pack if that's what you mean
I have a mugello with the black pack if that's what you mean
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Ver Nice cover indeed.
What has to be done when you start it after storage? Engine/first start wise, when the engineoil is all in the carter?
I ask cos mine is garaged for months now (and my daily is a Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo 151kw at the moment), think its better to drive it once a while....?
What has to be done when you start it after storage? Engine/first start wise, when the engineoil is all in the carter?
I ask cos mine is garaged for months now (and my daily is a Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo 151kw at the moment), think its better to drive it once a while....?
If you can't go to the track, bring the track to you.
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
I honestly think people over obsess about that.
Unless you've had the oil system properly apart and it needs re-priming (e.g. when I did my oil cooler repair how to a few years back, I flushed the cooler through as well), then just turn the key & fire her up.
The flow through an oil pump is pretty major (I was priming the oil system on my my big block chevy the other day for the first start - with my battery drill it couldn't quite get 60psi - but the flow was in excess of a garden hose when I disconnected the pipe to the cooler "just to see"). I've left engines for years before and they've been fine. I do usually run most things up to normal operating temperature at least once a month though, just to keep everything dry.
Now and again I've occasionally had a lifter sink back a little so a top end clatters a bit until pressure builds up (couple of my old chevy V8's did that) - and even more infrequently, I've had the odd lifter stick a little until warm. (Wife's MGTF - new used engine. All looked fine - but on first start, it clattered like a bastard. I was prepared to be proper grumpy - but once it warmed up and I gave it a bit of revving, it freed off and has been fine ever since - 4 years ago)
Finally, I once bought an engine that was advertised as good used. I plugged it in and decided (as I'd put an oil cooler on it) to crank it over until it had oil pressure to prime the cooler etc. After a bit of cranking, no sign of the light going out. Long story short, as far as I can tell it was a BNIB engine and the whole system needed priming - the oil pump wasn't drawing. I was horrified I might have cranked a dry engine for up to 1 minute with no lube. Anyway, 11 years later that motor still runs fine.
Unless you've had the oil system properly apart and it needs re-priming (e.g. when I did my oil cooler repair how to a few years back, I flushed the cooler through as well), then just turn the key & fire her up.
The flow through an oil pump is pretty major (I was priming the oil system on my my big block chevy the other day for the first start - with my battery drill it couldn't quite get 60psi - but the flow was in excess of a garden hose when I disconnected the pipe to the cooler "just to see"). I've left engines for years before and they've been fine. I do usually run most things up to normal operating temperature at least once a month though, just to keep everything dry.
Now and again I've occasionally had a lifter sink back a little so a top end clatters a bit until pressure builds up (couple of my old chevy V8's did that) - and even more infrequently, I've had the odd lifter stick a little until warm. (Wife's MGTF - new used engine. All looked fine - but on first start, it clattered like a bastard. I was prepared to be proper grumpy - but once it warmed up and I gave it a bit of revving, it freed off and has been fine ever since - 4 years ago)
Finally, I once bought an engine that was advertised as good used. I plugged it in and decided (as I'd put an oil cooler on it) to crank it over until it had oil pressure to prime the cooler etc. After a bit of cranking, no sign of the light going out. Long story short, as far as I can tell it was a BNIB engine and the whole system needed priming - the oil pump wasn't drawing. I was horrified I might have cranked a dry engine for up to 1 minute with no lube. Anyway, 11 years later that motor still runs fine.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Read the FAQ. Pull the fuse (29 I think, but check) then turn the engine over. I always do this after leaving the car for a few weeks. You can actually hear the engine getting quieter as it turns over on the start motor.
Then put the fuse back in and start the engine. Don't rev it until it's warmed up.
Even then it's noisy until the tappets fill completely. Takes a surprisingly long time.
Then put the fuse back in and start the engine. Don't rev it until it's warmed up.
Even then it's noisy until the tappets fill completely. Takes a surprisingly long time.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
Yes ive heard about this, but my cardoor is 10cm from the wall of my garage, so i cant reach the fusebox unfortunately...Shoppinit wrote: ↑Sat Dec 30, 2017 2:01 pmRead the FAQ. Pull the fuse (29 I think, but check) then turn the engine over. I always do this after leaving the car for a few weeks. You can actually hear the engine getting quieter as it turns over on the start motor.
Then put the fuse back in and start the engine. Don't rev it until it's warmed up.
Even then it's noisy until the tappets fill completely. Takes a surprisingly long time.
If you can't go to the track, bring the track to you.
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Re: All wrapped up for the winter
See what I mean! lol
Shopp's absolutely correct about lifters etc pumping up taking a while - however - I was always taught the a fast idle is better to help the lifters pump up since the high frequency oscillating motion helps them to mechanically pump up. In flat tappet motors, this is even more important to get enough variation in the load, and volume of oil flying around, to get the lifter to rotate - for example, it's well known, if you crank a SBC motor too long on first start, you WILL knacker the cam. The best practice is to prime it via the dizzy, fire it up and get it to 2000 rpm as quick as possible for the first half hour......
Shopp's absolutely correct about lifters etc pumping up taking a while - however - I was always taught the a fast idle is better to help the lifters pump up since the high frequency oscillating motion helps them to mechanically pump up. In flat tappet motors, this is even more important to get enough variation in the load, and volume of oil flying around, to get the lifter to rotate - for example, it's well known, if you crank a SBC motor too long on first start, you WILL knacker the cam. The best practice is to prime it via the dizzy, fire it up and get it to 2000 rpm as quick as possible for the first half hour......
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
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