Breakdown

4.2 V8 40v biturbo - 450 bhp
4.2 V8 40v biturbo - 480 bhp (plus)
steve2003rs6
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Re: Breakdown

Post by steve2003rs6 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 9:24 am

IMG_0249.jpeg

Suz. This is the code I got.
Not sure if it’s after 30 turns or not.
See previous info on this thread.

srichards
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Re: Breakdown

Post by srichards » Thu Oct 17, 2024 9:29 am

I'd think popping a new one of those on is probably the easiest thing to do for now and just not use the car until it's fixed. If there is a chance it can cut out while moving then it's not worth the risk of staining the seat!

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Shoppinit
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Re: Breakdown

Post by Shoppinit » Thu Oct 17, 2024 9:34 am

Yeah. I don't think I've ever heard of one failing while driving, but there's no reason why it couldn't. Certainly, if it's dubious then it needs to be replaced asap, since it's such a critical part.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

steve2003rs6
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Re: Breakdown

Post by steve2003rs6 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 9:38 am

Hi suz.
Yeah made a phone call to the garage this morning to see if they can fit me in. But I doubt it. They are always really busy.
It’s booked in for the 22/10/24 for the drivers door window regulator. Had the nearside done so going to do both.

I have it booked in for the 7/11/24 at the moment for the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel filter replacement.
That was the earliest day the garage had available.
If they have any cancellations they will let me know.
Last edited by steve2003rs6 on Thu Oct 17, 2024 10:50 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Breakdown

Post by steve2003rs6 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 9:50 am

Anyone have a guide/pics of how to do it with engine in situ.
That would be a great help.

The crankshaft position sensor is the main problem at the moment.
I can continue clouting the fuel pump with a hammer for the time being.

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Shoppinit
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Re: Breakdown

Post by Shoppinit » Thu Oct 17, 2024 10:09 am

You won't be surprised to learn that it's supposed to be an engine out job. :bash:

I know it can just about be done in situ by removing the drive shaft and other bits. I've got a feeling the turbo might need to be moved.

As a previous loyal customer, might be worth asking Unit 20 if they've got any tips.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

steve2003rs6
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Re: Breakdown

Post by steve2003rs6 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 10:14 am

IMG_0311.png

Many thanks Ben.
I did come across this. Don’t know how valid it is.

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Re: Breakdown

Post by steve2003rs6 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 10:36 am

Spoke to Martin/Grizz
Apparently The above “how to” is valid.

May also need to remove the turbo drain pipe and a couple of shields.

Says they have done quite a few of these with engine in situ.

How I wish unit 20 was close to me !
Last edited by steve2003rs6 on Thu Oct 17, 2024 8:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

steve2003rs6
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Re: Breakdown

Post by steve2003rs6 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 10:49 am

Plan of action
Car booked in for window regulator 22/10/24
Changed. Will now be crank shaft sensor.

7/11/24
Will now be fuel pump and fuel filter. That’s if the fuel pump arrives in time.

Drivers Door window regulator some other time.
It isn’t faulty it was just a precautionary measure, after the passenger door regulator failed and was recently replaced.
Last edited by steve2003rs6 on Thu Oct 17, 2024 11:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Shoppinit
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Re: Breakdown

Post by Shoppinit » Thu Oct 17, 2024 10:51 am

Good call.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

steve2003rs6
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Re: Breakdown

Post by steve2003rs6 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 11:03 am

Grizz mentioned that the coil fails. And if left to cool down it will re start for a while.
Eventually it will totally fail, and you won’t be able to start the car.
I think I read that you will see two sensors. I think one is black and one is grey.

You can check the CPS Using VCDS.
Go into ( already forgot ) crank the engine and revs should be recorded whilst cranking.

I bet you know the missing bit Ben.
Last edited by steve2003rs6 on Thu Oct 17, 2024 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

111marc111
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Re: Breakdown

Post by 111marc111 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 11:29 am

I did it in situ.
Removed boost hoses from turbo outlet.
Removed the driveshaft.
Undid the turbo oil return hose from the turbo end and the engine end. You won't be able to get the oil return hose out but it'll be free to move about out of the way.
Worked from both underneath and through the passenger wheel well.
Sensor came out without moving the turbo itself, but did need a lever bar behind it to get it the last millimeter or so to allow it to just kink up a bit in the hole in the bell housing and push up over the turbo outlet. Luckily the sensor isnt a tight fit in the hole so there is a little wiggle room.

Its crap to get to and reach but it is plenty doable with the engine in.

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Shoppinit
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Re: Breakdown

Post by Shoppinit » Thu Oct 17, 2024 11:39 am

^Good info :thumbs:
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

steve2003rs6
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Re: Breakdown

Post by steve2003rs6 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 12:21 pm

Thank you mark. Great info.
Can you just clarify the following on a right hand drive car.

Nearside passenger drive shaft to be removed ?
Are there two sensors black and grey ?

The fault I have is G28 engine speed sensor according to VCDS.
Is that the same as crankshaft position sensor.

I think I have read too much on the subject. So much so that I am now confused.

111marc111
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Re: Breakdown

Post by 111marc111 » Thu Oct 17, 2024 10:03 pm

This all really couldn't of come at a better time for you Steve haha.

I have a spare gearbox at home and as you know also have the engine and gearbox out of my car.

I'll send you some pictures tomorrow which might help you and your guys.
Obviously my engine isn't in one piece, which in a way will help you see, but will not look familiar when you look at yours.
I have the driveshaft out and turbos are also off.

G28 is the crank sensor and is black. It's on the gearbox bell housing by the join with the engine. If you're looking at the driveshaft output flange side on through the wheel arch the sensor is at about 10oclock. The cable goes off towardsthe front of the car and the plug is grey, the plug connection is clipped to the engine and is around the aircon pump if memory serves me above the gearbox oil cooler lines.
There is another sensor in that location on the uk passenger side driveshaft output flange. I assume its an output speed sensor. Can't remember the colour.
I'll message tomorrow.

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