Tyre to Arch gap different

[anditsoundslikebells]

I had a proper look and used an app on my phone to review the camber on each corner.
It turns out the RR has 1.9degrees & a 11mm gap.
While the RL has 3.5degrees & a 20mm gap.

[anditsoundslikebells]

I quickly drafted up this:

Which leads me to believe that if the cambers were matching on the rear wheels then I would have a matching 20mm tyre2arch.

The front is a different story and I will explore the subframe.

I was unhappy when the alignment was done. They did it super quick, didn't really speak to me at all.

Now I am trying to find a good place in Holland or West Germany that will take a proper look at it, set it up as I like in terms of camber & height, look at the front subframe, generally get it bang on.

[Shoppinit]

Good thinking.

[anditsoundslikebells]

I went to another garage to get my alignment fixed.
JD Engineering recommended 'Premio Peter de Groot' and they did a good job of matching the camber on the wheels.
(Great service if someone is reading this from Holland)

The rear had different camber, making the tyre2arch gap visibly different. Now with matching camber, the gap is the same. The rear is fixed.

The front weren't different so the 12mm difference comes from the bodywork.
I know the from right arch doesn't have factory paint. I can't imagine that there is 12mm filler on the arch to make the difference.

Does anyone have experience with fitting the front arches, bumper, bonnet....
Is there a degree of adjustment in these panels?
Could it be that when it was put back together the alignment of the panels was skewed to the right... creating this difference in tyre2arch gap?

[Shoppinit]

Most likely the front subframe has been off at some point for some reason and not been put back on centered. I would just adjust it back to center and get your geo done again.

[anditsoundslikebells]

that was my original thought but garages have told me it is likely the bodywork.
i've had the engine out recently so it could be as simple as what you said.
the garage i use (MP Carworks) would reposition the subframe for me I guess.

is it feasible that I can raise the front of the car on two floor jacks, then take a tape measue and work out a way to measure the position of the subframe relative to the chassis to tell if it is incorrectly positioned?

and if i do move it, is it worth replacing the mounting bolts? i read on another forum about replacing the 20 year old bolts with new if I am to re-torque them to factory torque settings?

[Shoppinit]

Have a look to see if the subframe alignment holes are lined up first.

I'm not very good at replacing bolts. Unless they are specifically stretch bolts.

[anditsoundslikebells]

turns out the alignment holes are not aligned.
i found this video which plays out what i need to do:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GigBps_Ijz8

i've been looking for the equivilant tool to Audi's 3393 tool, for our chassis.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-vol ... pair/3393/

any ideas?

[Mɐʇʇ]

Is the hole throught the bottom necessary?
If not, it looks a bit like my clutch alignment tool - which is whatever long socket that fits the flywheel and then with electrical tape wrapped around to fit tightly on the clutch drive splines...

Oh - measurements here - https://www.myturbodiesel.com/threads/d ... 3393.5030/

[anditsoundslikebells]

I was thinking I could turn something in wood on a lathe as that is about as far as my fabrication goes.

[Mɐʇʇ]

A length of this is going to get you pretty damn close - just over 0.3mm clearance all round if those measurements on the above thread are correct.
An actual single loop of lecky tape round the tube would probably close that gap up
https://www.metals4u.co.uk/materials/mi ... ube/2326-p