On the road again...

[mavada]

Hi Ben,

Thanks.
Yes ive loosen those....till i tried to get the lower part of the shock loose.
Ive seen those bolts are supposed to head towards the front, but for unknown reason mine are the other way around.
So i cant get it out cos it will hit the lower control arm.
So i think it has to be grinded out...

[mavada]

It’s almost worth the hassle for the sense of triumph and relief, isn’t it?

Almost

Thanks guys, the moment you got that bold turning by hand....and thinking the last couple of days the doom scenarios of drilling it out...
Got the right toparm loose, the left is playing with my patience...ill fight that tomorrow.
DRC very little amount of oil came out.

@Chunky:
What happend with the 6, i seem to have missed that, sorry.

The time had come to scratch the Porsche itch. Pretty sure I won't own another car as long as I had the RS6, it was an amazing car.

Great, which one?

[IchBautAuto]

Hi Ben,

Thanks.
Yes ive loosen those....till i tried to get the lower part of the shock loose.
Ive seen those bolts are supposed to head towards the front, but for unknown reason mine are the other way around.
So i cant get it out cos it will hit the lower control arm.
So i think it has to be grinded out...

From memory the audi manual installs the lower bolt from the control arm side and then owners install it from the easy side. You can get it out ok.

I have to say that while there are always more than one way to skin a cat, this thread is making life difficult for those who have not gone through the initiation rituals of audi mechanical work. Clearly you can do it in several ways but I would undo the three bolts inside the engine bay securing the top mount, remove the pinch bolt and "perhaps" remove the sway bar link if needed, and you have all the vertical room you need plus you can tilt the damper assembly to help remove the bottom bolt no matter what way it is inserted.

I have three audi, all with the same suspension setup and I use the same process on each, no problems. Many people have found other ways to remove suspension components. They work for them and may work for you but just beware that they may have hard earned knowledge and tools that are not mentioned when their successes are chiseled in stone.

[chunky79]

Almost

Thanks guys, the moment you got that bold turning by hand....and thinking the last couple of days the doom scenarios of drilling it out...
Got the right toparm loose, the left is playing with my patience...ill fight that tomorrow.
DRC very little amount of oil came out.

@Chunky:
What happend with the 6, i seem to have missed that, sorry.

The time had come to scratch the Porsche itch. Pretty sure I won't own another car as long as I had the RS6, it was an amazing car.

Great, which one?

Macan Turbo.

Noted that it's nothing compared to a bloody 959 Mav!!!

[mavada]

Very Nice Chunky. You must be proud
Almost some performance, bit more heavy, slight less bhp, but i think a much faster changing gearbox.
Have fun with it:)

[mavada]

Hi Ben,

Thanks.
Yes ive loosen those....till i tried to get the lower part of the shock loose.
Ive seen those bolts are supposed to head towards the front, but for unknown reason mine are the other way around.
So i cant get it out cos it will hit the lower control arm.
So i think it has to be grinded out...

From memory the audi manual installs the lower bolt from the control arm side and then owners install it from the easy side. You can get it out ok.

I have to say that while there are always more than one way to skin a cat, this thread is making life difficult for those who have not gone through the initiation rituals of audi mechanical work. Clearly you can do it in several ways but I would undo the three bolts inside the engine bay securing the top mount, remove the pinch bolt and "perhaps" remove the sway bar link if needed, and you have all the vertical room you need plus you can tilt the damper assembly to help remove the bottom bolt no matter what way it is inserted.

I have three audi, all with the same suspension setup and I use the same process on each, no problems. Many people have found other ways to remove suspension components. They work for them and may work for you but just beware that they may have hard earned knowledge and tools that are not mentioned when their successes are chiseled in stone.

Hi,

Eventually i have to take out the upper part which is connected by the three bolts from engine bay area of the upper control arm bushes are shot.
I think the rear one is torn.
As you can see, theres no way the bolt from the front upper arm can get out without removing the lot.
So unlogic those ......anyways.

So far, almost every f...ing bolt is giving me a headache.




Ok.

[Mɐʇʇ]

By removing the whole shock assembly i can see/check for worn parts better maybe.
...but you made me curious...

I did my whole setup without touching that bolt - new springs and shocks. There’s a pic somewhere here of the new assemblies on my work bench ready to install.

And new rear lower arms to I think - the dust covers had perished, so while it was in bits….

You just take off one of the lower arms instead and that gives you the clearance you need. It’s in one of the DIYs for doing springs and shocks.

Still, if you managed to get the bolts out without too much aggro, you’ve already won both the battle and the war

[mavada]

Hi Mɐʇʇ,

Thanks for your reply.
Ill have a look at that post.
The upper 2 control arms, OEM made by...?
Ive seen them from Vaico, Febi, Meyle etc.
Are they similar quality to OEM?

[Mɐʇʇ]

For the lowers I replaced, I used TRW. I can't promise they are actual OEM, but I always rate their quality. (For example, I know the master cylinder OEM brand is actual TRW since it says it on it). I think Shop or someone has done a post somewhere about what the best brand arms to get are...which I seem to recall includes Febi & Meyle? Can't remember.

[chunky79]

Very Nice Chunky. You must be proud
Almost some performance, bit more heavy, slight less bhp, but i think a much faster changing gearbox.
Have fun with it:)

The gearbox makes a HUGE difference to the speed, not run in fully yet but think it will be quicker than the RS6. It hides the weight very well and air suspension is bloody impressive.
Put the PDK into the C5 RS6 and that'd be an amazing package.

[chunky79]

For the lowers I replaced, I used TRW. I can't promise they are actual OEM, but I always rate their quality. (For example, I know the master cylinder OEM brand is actual TRW since it says it on it). I think Shop or someone has done a post somewhere about what the best brand arms to get are...which I seem to recall includes Febi & Meyle? Can't remember.

Yeah, Meyle HD are brilliant.

[Shoppinit]

IIRC if you remove the top assembly you are supposed to get the geometry redone. The kind that can't be adjusted at the hubs. Hard to imagine that it would put it out by much given how far it is from the business end. I'll try to find the info.

/I suppose you could drill through both and use locating pins to get the geometry back to how it was.

//Although it sounds like yours has already been off, mav, so if it was going to go out of alignment it would already be out of alignment so no point worrying too much about it now.

[chunky79]

I'd say most of the cars on this forum would need some geo done if living in this country as the roads are shocking.
Just get the geo done after anyway, go nuts on undoing everything.

count the puns

[mavada]

I thought this one would come out at a later stadium, but its frozen solid.
Tried heating , bring the arms up/down...im now starting to damage the hub assembly.
Any suggestions what to do now, cut it off and drill the rest out or...?

[Shoppinit]

Use a ball joint splitter. They are not expensive.