Suspension shocker!!! Advice or help required..

[jonnyball]

Evening All,

So my introduction to RS6 ownership continues with a bang (literally).

The suspension on my car was replaced by the previous owner and it sits in Bilstein B16’s. They have completely corroded, no
Height adjustment is feasible now and nobody seems to be able to remove them. The suspension arms and bushes have split and lots of other related fun to be had!

Bottom line is I need to replace the suspension. Does anyone know where and how to get either reconditioned or good second hand set from or best place to source new springs? Has anyone gone for alternative to KW V3 or Bilstein PSS9’s?

Clearly trying to keep cost down as lots of other repairs to be done including gearbox leaks, power steering pumps etc. I won’t go on because I am depressing myself writing this...

Thanks,

Jon


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[IchBautAuto]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=133436&p=926630#p926630
My suspension adventure. This setup has worked perfectly for me and I would go this route again without a second thought. I also have the same brand on my RS4 and again, no issues, recommended.

Get quality suspension arms and be sure you have the RS6 specific front suspension lower rear arms. Other than that, the usual slog removing corroded components.

[steve2003rs6]

Echo the above. RS6 specific upper and lower suspension arms are a must.
Had mine done last year. Local Garage supposed to have fitted original parts. Failed immediately. To unit 20 and informed cheap and nasty control arms fitted.
Unit 20 put it right. Fully reimbursed from the local garage for all costs involved. Cowboys!
Also mine has had recent bilstein b16 pss9 installed and I love them.

[Shoppinit]

B16 is the same as PSS9. I’d get the same again if it were me.

[jonnyball]

Thanks everyone and great to hear your guidance is absolutely consistent with the garage the car is with. Bilstein it is! The garage have explained that I need the right RS6 arms etc.


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[steve2003rs6]

I would just add
Do you really trust the garage doing the work. I trusted my local garage and they knackered the ally hubs separating the control arm. They hammered <beep> out of them to separate them. This Resulted in having to replace both hubs at the Additional cost of 2k.
Whilst all this work was being done I took the opportunity to replace all top mounts and bushes.
It really is critical that the garage are familiar with these cars and know exactly what they are doing.
Good luck.

[jonnyball]

Thanks Steve a totally get it. Great point.
I am using JKM in Portsmouth who were recommended by local forum members. They do seem to know their way around the RS and sympathetic to my cause!

I was going to take the car to MRC but this will have to wait until lockdown is over and the immediate issues sorted. I think JKM are a great local alternative.


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[Capt Ric]

Jonnyball,
I'm sorry you're having this 'inherited' issue.
I understand why some people have replaced their DRC, but your example shows coilovers are not necessarily a long term fix and maintenance will probably be required eventually.
I've been very happy with DRC (& Hotkiss ARB) for last 8 years /40,000 miles, only needing to replace the front shocks (7 years ago) and a leaking flexi hose and serviced by unit 20.
I'd stay original as long as spares are availible ( new set of shocks in garage just in case !)
I wonder what percentage of cars are still on DRC?
Any on this forum?

[jonnyball]

Good shout Capt! I raised this with the garage but they reckon cost is the biggest factor. DRC apparently £700-800 per shock without arms, bushes, mounts etc. Then the labour on top means generally folks move to alternatives.

That said - impressive example from you here and food for thought.


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[dwh13]

Jonnyball,
I'm sorry you're having this 'inherited' issue.
I understand why some people have replaced their DRC, but your example shows coilovers are not necessarily a long term fix and maintenance will probably be required eventually.
I've been very happy with DRC (& Hotkiss ARB) for last 8 years /40,000 miles, only needing to replace the front shocks (7 years ago) and a leaking flexi hose and serviced by unit 20.
I'd stay original as long as spares are availible ( new set of shocks in garage just in case !)
I wonder what percentage of cars are still on DRC?
Any on this forum?

FWIW, my gen1 DRC shocks were replaced about 4 years/20k miles ago with the gen2 versions and have been fine ever since.

[Puggie]

Billy B16s are only going to be good for about 8 years then need a rebuild, a few places will do the internals, but I don't know of anyone who refurbished the outer bodies. Mine need doing, I'm tempted to upgrade though.

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[anditsoundslikebells]

What would you be looking to upgrade to from the B16s?
Mine has inherited KW-V3's that are fine now but I should check their mileage.
I went for 034Motorsport adjustable upper and lower control arms, new SKF top-mounts and H&R ARB....mine was making some clunky noises when I got the car.
Now happy with it. Although it's too low.

[IchBautAuto]

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Clearly trying to keep cost down as lots of other repairs to be done including gearbox leaks, power steering pumps etc. I won’t go on because I am depressing myself writing this...

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People are always enthusiastic about what they chose, it goes without saying, so they are going to recommend that no matter what. I'm not sure some actually read your sentence above, leading to PSS9 and DRC recommendations. Both have their bonuses and hitches and in common both are expensive. If you find some spare, both are reasonable options but neither in my mind are worth the premium over basic Koni or Bilstein sport dampers for a STREET DRIVEN car. Adjustability for the street is more a curse than a benefit for a great many, how many really get it right?.

[srichards]

I put the cheaper KW variant 1 ones on mine. Not much to fiddle with and they're fine for normal road use.

[Shoppinit]

I have been toying with the idea of putting DRC back on, just to put the car back to original. Otherwise I am very happy with the PSS9. Mine are 11 years old and like new. All depends on how and how much you drive the car, I guess, like any part.

I would only put the DRC on if I then got the gear to recharge. I'd also put a pressure sender on each circuit because you only realise the DRC has failed when it is so far gone it's actually dangerous. Unless you have a catastrophic sudden failure of course. That also happened to plenty of people.