Creaking on braking and setting off (lower rear arm issue or subframe bolt?), at my wits end

[Piggy22]

As above

My 6 developed a clicking noise when setting off and when braking. Diagnosed as offside lower rear control arm. Changed this and the clicking stopped. 1000 miles later the car started to creak like an old ship when braking slowly and setting off. I could tell it was from the same area as before so I held on to the arm whilst someone turned the wheel and for sure it was the same control arm at fault

I replaced it again under warranty. 30 miles later the creak is back again

The arms I have used are TRW and then Lemforder branded.

The creaking is probably the large bush of the control arm rubbing against the metal of each side of the arm holder after it has been bolted tight.

Is there something I am missing? Like a foam insert or something of the like which might sit snug between the large rubber bush and the metal what the bolt tightens?

Also I noticed that the subframe bolt doesn't fasten up very tight, nowhere near the 110nm that it is meant to be. I fear the threads have been damaged previously and with us taking the bolt out and putting it back in it may have damaged the threads beyond repair. Could this loose bolt be causing the creaking? If so, can the thread be repaired removing the subframe? A specialist thread repairer maybe?

Thanks in advance, this is driving me nuts

[Jultsu]

It's always recommended to change all arms, there might be play in some of the others and therefore causing the new one to die prematurely. You did set the final torque with the wheels "up" at the driving height?

Subframe bolts are stretchy single-usage bolts, they also have to be changed every time you loosen / take them off.

[Piggy22]

Yes I originally changed all of the arms too when the original problem arose

I did not have the subframe bolt replaced but I will order a brand new one on Monday and replace it now. May it just be the threads on the bolt that have had it if they are only single use stretch bolts? I hope so because I can't see it being easy to re-tap the hole

[Shoppinit]

You sure it's not the suspension top mounts? Or the ARB bushes?

110 Nm isn't that much torque. Less than wheel bolts. What's happening when you try to torque up?

Try a new subframe bolt. I'm sure the thread can be repaired if necessary. I've seen some amazing repair jobs on parts way less repairable than the subframe.

[Ajc]

You sure it's not the suspension top mounts? Or the ARB bushes?

110 Nm isn't that much torque. Less than wheel bolts. What's happening when you try to torque up?

Try a new subframe bolt. I'm sure the thread can be repaired if necessary. I've seen some amazing repair jobs on parts way less repairable than the subframe.

If the thread on the subframe it's self is damaged then it should be a removable part as the subframe it's self is Ali and the nut will be steel so they cannot be joined.
If it's the thread going into the body that's damaged , there will be an access point up top maybe under a grommet or sound pad . Again this will be a reasonably easy fix . However I wouldn't have thought unless it's crossed up as you've put It in then it'll be damaged and I'm sure had it gone in crossed you'd have known about it and wouldn't have carried on bullying it in .
Is you had aftermarket arb's they may well have grease nipples on them and it's worth pumping some fresh grease in there and seeing if it makes any difference.

[Jultsu]

The thread isn't on the subframe, the bolt goes though the subframe bushing onto the body itself.

This is what happens to strech bolts when you tighten them, and in the last photo, when you do it again and again and again..