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I have got my Phatbox now and have a couple of questions.

It was supplied with a selectable power supply for the cradle (2-pin but with a UK adaptor). But the low voltage is selectable too and none of the documentation gives a rating. Based on the quick search I did, it seems that others are using 12V. Can someone confirm that this is indeed the rating of the cradle?

I found some stories on the net that the US version won't work with VW MFD version G without either a chip change, or specific firmware and a wiring mod. I have no idea if mine is a US or Euro version, but since it was shipped from the US I am sure it must be the US version.

Has anyone got a US version working with Audi Sat Nav + (i.e. the LCD version) and so can put my mind at rest?

Lastly I'm going to need to rip my CD collection and I only want to do it once. I'm over 40 so my hearing isn't great any more, so what's the sensible sample rate I should use?

i've had 2 x usa phatnoise - it worked perfectly with the audi rns-d cdrom based navi without any mods, and it partially works with the rns-e dvd based navi although the phatnoise programming is a bit iffy for that model - some features are hit and miss.

i use my cradle at 9v but 12v is fine too.

Dippy, mine came from the US and worked fine with the Sat Nav plus unit in my old RS4.

Regarding the sample rate, I and a number of people I know rip CD's using the best tools and method going - Uberstandard (the guide and tools available from http://www.ubernet.org/?p=UberGuide). I use variable bitrate to 192kbit/s using the --alt preset standard settings for the Lame encoder. Anything higher is 99% a waste on your ears and disk space IMHO.



good luck!

i use cdex 1.5 - it uses the same lame dll engine which most rippers use and at alt-present standard preset does variable bit rate of 128k-320 average 180-200kbits /sec

the results are fantastic

just to add to all the above responces...

I use mine powered at 12v, seems to work fine.

I rip CD's to 192bps as they say above unless you have a top spec system in your car you will find it hard to notice any difference.

My US phatbox works fine with my Navi Plus system. Although I have some strange behaviour. I have to make sure I switch the stereo off before I turn off the ignition and remove the key. Otherwise the phatbox wont restart and I have to do another boot of the system. So switch off the headunit, wait 60seconds and power back up.

If anyone has any clues that would be good...

The PhatNoise website support pages certainly specify (or did, 30 months ago) a 12V supply @ 800mA. Mine has worked fine with 12V for all of that time.

The PhatBox should work with your Nav+, but you may find that you get short, irregular, interruptions in the audio output - this is a minor annoyance. However, I'm sure that the bad communications on the control interface was responsible for the PhatBox failing to power down on occasions. This resulted in the car battery becoming totally flat within 36 hours - this is more than annoying, it's downright inconvenient! I haven't had any problems since upgrading to the RNS-E.

I have always used 128kb encoding, which I find to be more than adequate for in-car use. I'm not totally cloth-eared - I have a pretty decent home audio set up.

peterb wrote: The PhatBox should work with your Nav+, but you may find that you get short, irregular, interruptions in the audio output - this is a minor annoyance.

Is it me. But I find the regular short irregular interuptions a real PITA.

It shouldn't do this. Does anyone know what is cuasing this and how it can be fixed?

Mine is a US sourced model. I bought from Ben Jacks. I had him leave his music on the cartridge and have yet to add any of my own. I wonder if its something to with how Ben transfered his music onto the cartridge?

I notice there was a software upgrade when I went to register my phatbox. I didn't notice if there were any fixes for this.

PS I made a small box from fibre glass to protect the portion of cartridge that sticks proud of the cover in my B5 RS4. I filled and smoothed the fibre glass and sprayed egg shell black. Came out alright. I would have preferred to have covered with the same cloth, but Brooner has struggled to get a match. So black it will stay unless I find anything.

I did the software upgrade straight away, so I can't say if it improved matters. Maybe we can compare here. Measure average time between interruptions?

Most of us have US boxes because the Euro boxes were only from Audi at $$$. I did read about early PBs needing a new chip and a software upgrade, and then later ones needing just a modification to the connector. I'll do a search again sometime - not a priority for me right now.

Yes I thought there was a post disscussing the chip issue in greater. But I didn't find it. Hence my question.

I'll contact phatbox.

Found this on the Knet http://wiki.phathack.com/Script_to_run_firmware_patch might be of use haven't had time to look at it in detail yet

Oooo going to have to spend some time researching this site.

Golich wrote:Does anyone know what is cuasing this...

Yep, it's the data interface on the US spec PhatBox (intended for use with US spec head units) using different voltage levels to those used on Euro spec head units.

I have heard of two fixes - one is to change a chip in the PhatBox, the other involves a software patch in the PhatBox combined with mods to the interface cable wiring.