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In the manual it says that dip beam conversion (from driving on the left to driving on the right) must be done by your dealer for safety reasons. I assume the insulating tape method isn't really effective with Xenon's (and was never that good with Halogens!) Is it really the case that it has to go back to the dealer or can anyone advise what needs to be done. Many thanks, ...

...PaulR.

If you are travelling to france - do what all english people do - nothing - serves them right for driving on the wrong side of the road!! [img]images/graemlins/<beep>_you.gif[/img]

kc [img]images/graemlins/s4anogaro.gif[/img]

Too right [img]images/graemlins/<beep>_you.gif[/img]

Dealers will charge you about £50-£100 to do it. It involves removing the headlights. The rear bulb replacement are dealer only also, stupid bloody design if you ask me....

Thanks guys, and as you say, ... stupid designs all round.

...Paul.

This surprises me (but what do I know !).

I have fitted HIDs to a few cars now, and there is nothing special to worry about. The RS uses D2S bulbs just the same as all other xenon equiped cars out there (well, some have D2R but this is a technicality and they use the same mounting).

On the porsches there is a little lever you flip inside the back of the light which cuts the beam pattern so it no longer raises to the left.

You will probably find this is all the Audi mechanics do for you, given the price quoted.

When I (eventually) get my car I'll investigate...

Paul, the reason it states this is because the Xenons are high voltage and a shock from them can electrocute. They are playing it safe.

However IMO (and I am a qualified electrical engineer) the job is DIY as long as you are careful:
1) Make sure the ignition is off (or disconnect the battery to be sure)
2) Only work on the lights with the power leads disconnected (which is essential for this job anyway).

The first time you do this it will probably take you up to an hour. After that it will only take 5-10 mins per light. I can only give you instructions wrt the latest B5 S4 (single unit headlights), so earlier models may be a bit different.

What you need:
A set of torx bits (can't remember which size)
A magnetic screwdriver as one of the screws is very recessed.
Also for the first time a piece of paper and masking tape. This is to protect the bumper below the light. In future you won't need it as you'll know how to remove the lights.
Ideally snip-nose pliers, but a long narrow screwdriver might do.

1) Unscrew the 2 obvious torx screws.
2) Unscrew the recessed torx screw (it's beneath a hole in the wing at the front - use a torch to see it).
3) VERY carefully slide the headlight towards the wing and try to ease it out. This is because it is clipped in on the edge near the radiator. The first time it will be tricky, but when you see the clip you'll find it easy thereafter.
4) Disconnect all the leads (actually twist the indicator fitment to remove the lead and bulb).
5) Place the light front-down on a soft surface (I suggest your lap as you sit somewhere).
6) Look into the hole where the main light connector was. You'll see what looks like a cheap metal fitting with a looped wire on one side. Look at the wire and you'll see that it is sprung, and rests on a rail. To change the light setting over, use the pliers/screwdriver to push this wire out and slide it along the rail to it's other position.
7) As all good instructions go - refitting is the reverse of removal.

Dave,
I know you are playing safe here, but there really is no danger as long as you don't switch the lights on while playing with the wires.

The combined ballast only generates high voltages to generate the strike voltage. There are not high voltages present all of the time.

Good write-up though [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Cheers,
John. (qualified electronics, software & systems engineer, and retrofitted about 6 HID systems now - or put another way, Jack of all trades - master of none [img]images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] )

Thankyou very much guys. A good looking writeup. I'll let you know after I've tackled the job (but won't be for a couple of weeks.)

Cheers, ... PaulR.

John,

I see you are more qualified than me, possibly except for the fact that I also worked in safety-critical engineering.

So quite right, you and I know we'd be safe, but that doesn't account for possible fault modes on his car. Therefore in order not to risk giving advice which could be considered negligent, it's best to advise 100% removal of risk, i.e. disconnect the battery & wires.

most elipsoidal (we call these modules) headlights from hella have a shutter operated by a lever(taurus lever) to alter the beam pattern for Europe etc.

quite safe with engine and lights off when working on Xenons. note tho... rad fan can kick in at any time...

Its the striking voltages (upto 22,000 volts, and 15-16 amps) thats the hazard.

when striked, they run much less reduced voltages and current.

i work with these and xenon test rigs daily fault finding, servicing, and modifying for different aplications and variations in product.