Anyone know where the main engine earth strap is on a 1.8T?

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kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:50 pm

Box seems to be bolted to block ok, theres no gaps between the mating faces anyway. Will recheck

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Shoppinit
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Post by Shoppinit » Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:13 pm

Try slackening it off a bit, then placing the starter, then pinching it off without tightening, just to test the starter.

Have you tried cranking the engine by hand to see if anything is resisting? Stick a socket on the crankshaft nut and see if you can turn it easily (with the plugs out).
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Sat Feb 05, 2011 7:15 pm

It turns quite easily on the crank until you get to TDC then it goes tight. I'll try without the plugs in.

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Sun Feb 06, 2011 11:42 am

I noticed when I had the starter off that the sandwich plate between the block and the gearbox was touching the flywheel and has actually marked the fly as its obviously been turning on the starter, therefore I thinking that this is where my resistance is. Going to slacken the box and see if this helps. Why would this happen?

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Sun Feb 06, 2011 1:19 pm

Ok tried the following;

*Tested starter off car and all ok.
*Negative battery terminal to earth point using jump lead.
*Slackened gearbox bolts and turned over but no difference.
*Removed plugs and turned over and there appears to be no difference in cranking noise.
*Turn over by hand reasonably easy until you get to TDC then its quite tight to get past to next stoke.

*Removed rocker cam cover and counted rollers between the arrows and found 15 instead of 16.

How does the cam chain tensioner work exactly? Is it oil pressured? I didnt replace when rebuilding the engine and I'm now dreading that this was the issue that caused the bent valves to begin with (oil light came on and engine stalled...all exhaust valves were bent) and I'm now thinking that all I've done is fit new valves and they are now belt also???


Seriously debating whether or not I should drop it off at the local garage for them to sort!

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PetrolDave
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Post by PetrolDave » Sun Feb 06, 2011 5:55 pm

Seems your problem is not electrical at all but mechanical - you may be better discussing it on a 1.8T Forum somewhere like TSN or AFN.
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kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Sun Feb 06, 2011 8:10 pm

Frustratingly my mates got my compression tester in his garage and hes offshore in Libya right now. I may just buy a new tester gauge.

I've checked all the earth straps and all ok. I checked the power going to the starter before and after turning the key and all ok, so it must be something mechanical.

Would the original bent valve issue been caused by the cam chain tensioner not pressurising due to low oil pressure at the top end??

I replaced the oil pump, sump pick up strainer and did the big end shells whilst the block was on my stand. Perhaps the crank is a little restricted by the new shells? I didn't replace the rings as the seemed ok and the bores were nice and clean.

Might be work a tow if the compression test comes back ok.

What's the easiest way to get the cam rollers back to 16 instead of the current 15 count?

kaisersolsay
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Re: Anyone know where the main engine earth strap is on a 1.

Post by kaisersolsay » Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:30 pm

Update

I fired a second hand head on this weekend. I turned her over twice with a spanner on the crank and then turned her over without the plugs in to pressurise the engine oil. It then took about 45 mins of turning over with the plugs in to get her started. However, after running for about 2 mins the red oil light came on the dash and there was a chattering noise from the bottom end!! ARRGGHH!!!!!! I replaced the big ends, but left the small end bearings and the big ends actually looked ok with very little wear. I replaced the oil pick up pipe but didn't bother with the oil pump as it didn't have any sign of wear.

I've lost the will now so will get the local garage to pick her up and sort. Gutted!!

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Shoppinit
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Re: Anyone know where the main engine earth strap is on a 1.

Post by Shoppinit » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:06 pm

oh man. I feel your pain :( You think the pump is bad? Maybe it wasn't the pickup after all. Red herring.

Good luck!
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

kaisersolsay
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Posts: 484
Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2007 4:32 pm

Re: Anyone know where the main engine earth strap is on a 1.

Post by kaisersolsay » Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:57 pm

Gutted! All those nights after work in freezing -4c weather!
Booked into the local garage on Thursday. I must be the pump although
It looked fine when I had it out??.....

kaisersolsay
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Re: Anyone know where the main engine earth strap is on a 1.

Post by kaisersolsay » Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:20 pm

Update

Stripped down the motor in preparation to lift out and replace the block. I noticed quite a lot of oil in the boost pipes considering they had all been cleaned and the car only driven a few miles.

Would this suggest the turbo is away? There's no play in the shaft.

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