Anyone know where the main engine earth strap is on a 1.8T?
What year is it?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Looks like it's the +12V to the starter.


Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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Its a 2001. Ok that would make sense....so....the thick black cable I also have connected to to terminal '2' definately has to be an earth strap for the alternator I think?? It shares the same cable tidy as the iginition connection '1' therefore it must bolt to somewhere close by. This is the trouble with doing a job over a long period of time....you bloody forget where all the little connection go!!
I think the cable that terminated at 2 on the starter motor would be positive. There normally isn't a an earth strap going to the starter motor because it gets its ground from its mounting point. I think the same is true for the alternator, but I'm not sure. Has the wire you've connected to 2 got a red collar on it?
Normally the earth strap should go from the body (engine mount) to the engine or gearbox directly.
Normally the earth strap should go from the body (engine mount) to the engine or gearbox directly.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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Yes the wire black wire has a red collar on it...see below pic

I'm told on another forum that the other black cable in question that routes from behind block (secured mid-way to the gearbox) is for the alternator and should also be bolted to the starter connection. This is really confusing as this is how I've connected the starter and the starter isnt turning properly.
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I'm told on another forum that the other black cable in question that routes from behind block (secured mid-way to the gearbox) is for the alternator and should also be bolted to the starter connection. This is really confusing as this is how I've connected the starter and the starter isnt turning properly.
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That red collar means it's positive. I was 99% sure, but just wanted to check. If you connected that to the earth then you may have blown your 150 amp fuse. Check on next to the battery terminal.
What I would do in your place is test with a voltmeter before connecting up. There should be positive going to the starter. I am 99% sure that the cable you've taken a photo of goes to the starter as per the diagram in my last post.
Also, make sure your battery is charged. Could explain your starting problems. Can you give us any more details on that? *
What I would do in your place is test with a voltmeter before connecting up. There should be positive going to the starter. I am 99% sure that the cable you've taken a photo of goes to the starter as per the diagram in my last post.
Also, make sure your battery is charged. Could explain your starting problems. Can you give us any more details on that? *
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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JD - I'd really appreciate it! cheers!
Shopp - the battery is fully charged and I stuck the jump leads on just to be sure. The red collared cable is almost certainly the live, its the other black cable that's the issue. Tracing this cable back it appears to be connected to the big connector block on the back of the alternator. It routes round the back of the block and is bolted to the gearbox at the same area where the Lambda sensor enters the pre-cat downpipe. I'm going to disconnet it and try and connect it as an earth to the block and see what happens. I'll check with the voltmeter first.
Shopp - the battery is fully charged and I stuck the jump leads on just to be sure. The red collared cable is almost certainly the live, its the other black cable that's the issue. Tracing this cable back it appears to be connected to the big connector block on the back of the alternator. It routes round the back of the block and is bolted to the gearbox at the same area where the Lambda sensor enters the pre-cat downpipe. I'm going to disconnet it and try and connect it as an earth to the block and see what happens. I'll check with the voltmeter first.
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Still not happening!
See below video of slow turn over.
All bearing and cam caps were torqued as per manufacturers specs so really really confused with this one. I think it may be a tow to the local garage and leave for them to sort jobbie!
Anyone any further thoughts?
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x309 ... 5-1132.mp4
See below video of slow turn over.
All bearing and cam caps were torqued as per manufacturers specs so really really confused with this one. I think it may be a tow to the local garage and leave for them to sort jobbie!
Anyone any further thoughts?
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x309 ... 5-1132.mp4
That's weird. Does it turn over better if there's no compression (remove spark plugs). Have yuo tried using jump leads to try starting from another battery?
Doesn't sound right
Try also using the jump leads to connect the negative terminal directly to the engine block somewhere.
Doesn't sound right

Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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I'll try without plugs in and see if it turns quicker. Could it be dry cylinder walls? Should I inject some oil in the bores?
I've tried with jump leads of my other car and cranking just the same.
I'll try the following;
*Turn over with plugs out to see if turning faster with a spot of oil sprayed down the bores
*Ground negative terminal with jump lead to block
*Swap the starter motor for one from the breakers to elimate dodgy starter
I've tried with jump leads of my other car and cranking just the same.
I'll try the following;
*Turn over with plugs out to see if turning faster with a spot of oil sprayed down the bores
*Ground negative terminal with jump lead to block
*Swap the starter motor for one from the breakers to elimate dodgy starter
I had this once when the box wasn't bolted up to the block properly. That put excess force on the starter and made it turn over like that.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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