Anyone know where the main engine earth strap is on a 1.8T?

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kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:31 pm

Anyone?

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Shoppinit
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Post by Shoppinit » Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:45 am

What year is it?
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Shoppinit
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Post by Shoppinit » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:15 am

Looks like it's the +12V to the starter.

Image
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:42 pm

Its a 2001. Ok that would make sense....so....the thick black cable I also have connected to to terminal '2' definately has to be an earth strap for the alternator I think?? It shares the same cable tidy as the iginition connection '1' therefore it must bolt to somewhere close by. This is the trouble with doing a job over a long period of time....you bloody forget where all the little connection go!!

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Shoppinit
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Post by Shoppinit » Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:13 pm

I think the cable that terminated at 2 on the starter motor would be positive. There normally isn't a an earth strap going to the starter motor because it gets its ground from its mounting point. I think the same is true for the alternator, but I'm not sure. Has the wire you've connected to 2 got a red collar on it?

Normally the earth strap should go from the body (engine mount) to the engine or gearbox directly.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Thu Feb 03, 2011 11:51 pm

Yes the wire black wire has a red collar on it...see below pic

Image

I'm told on another forum that the other black cable in question that routes from behind block (secured mid-way to the gearbox) is for the alternator and should also be bolted to the starter connection. This is really confusing as this is how I've connected the starter and the starter isnt turning properly.

[/img][/list]

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Fri Feb 04, 2011 12:15 am

Image

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Shoppinit
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Post by Shoppinit » Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:26 am

That red collar means it's positive. I was 99% sure, but just wanted to check. If you connected that to the earth then you may have blown your 150 amp fuse. Check on next to the battery terminal.

What I would do in your place is test with a voltmeter before connecting up. There should be positive going to the starter. I am 99% sure that the cable you've taken a photo of goes to the starter as per the diagram in my last post.

Also, make sure your battery is charged. Could explain your starting problems. Can you give us any more details on that? *
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

jd_hants
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Post by jd_hants » Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:47 am

Kaiser: I have an A4 1.8T 51 reg. I will whip the undertray off and have a look for you but won't be able to until tomorrow morning.

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Fri Feb 04, 2011 3:40 pm

JD - I'd really appreciate it! cheers!

Shopp - the battery is fully charged and I stuck the jump leads on just to be sure. The red collared cable is almost certainly the live, its the other black cable that's the issue. Tracing this cable back it appears to be connected to the big connector block on the back of the alternator. It routes round the back of the block and is bolted to the gearbox at the same area where the Lambda sensor enters the pre-cat downpipe. I'm going to disconnet it and try and connect it as an earth to the block and see what happens. I'll check with the voltmeter first.

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Fri Feb 04, 2011 3:57 pm

Just spoke with my local Audi and the technician tells me that the red collered live and the black cable from the alternator should be connected to the alternator! So I'm back where I started!! I'm thinking the start motor is goosed. I'm try a recon and see.

kaisersolsay
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Post by kaisersolsay » Sat Feb 05, 2011 3:13 pm

Still not happening!

See below video of slow turn over.

All bearing and cam caps were torqued as per manufacturers specs so really really confused with this one. I think it may be a tow to the local garage and leave for them to sort jobbie!

Anyone any further thoughts?

http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x309 ... 5-1132.mp4

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Shoppinit
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Post by Shoppinit » Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:09 pm

That's weird. Does it turn over better if there's no compression (remove spark plugs). Have yuo tried using jump leads to try starting from another battery?

Doesn't sound right :( Try also using the jump leads to connect the negative terminal directly to the engine block somewhere.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

kaisersolsay
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Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2007 4:32 pm

Post by kaisersolsay » Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:24 pm

I'll try without plugs in and see if it turns quicker. Could it be dry cylinder walls? Should I inject some oil in the bores?

I've tried with jump leads of my other car and cranking just the same.

I'll try the following;

*Turn over with plugs out to see if turning faster with a spot of oil sprayed down the bores
*Ground negative terminal with jump lead to block
*Swap the starter motor for one from the breakers to elimate dodgy starter

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Shoppinit
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Post by Shoppinit » Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:26 pm

I had this once when the box wasn't bolted up to the block properly. That put excess force on the starter and made it turn over like that.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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