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Hi all
Just looking what you guys are using as your cleaning products and routine.
Just had the car treated the other week with carbon collective ceramic and hydro and guess I should really maintain this a bit better than I have with others (usually just taken to hand wash but realised it’s not much better than a car wash)

Thank in advance

If you have had it coated, any decent car shampoo and water And a microfibre towel to dry it. Job done.
Or just leave it to collect crap so it looks cooler.

You can still marr the surface and cause swirl marks even if it’s coated.

There’s a handy guide on KDS Detailing’s website somewhere.

Essentially you have to keep in mind that moving dirt across the paint by hand, even if using a mitt, can cause tiny abrasions which build up over time.

Therefore - remove as much dirt as you can before you even touch the paint (snowfoam and pressure washer) - and then when you move onto hand washing use the “2 bucket method” and grit guards in the buckets.

I like gtechniq mitts, shampoo and drying towels.


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FaisalJ wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 18, 2019 11:46 pm

You can still marr the surface and cause swirl marks even if it’s coated.

There’s a handy guide on KDS Detailing’s website somewhere.

Essentially you have to keep in mind that moving dirt across the paint by hand, even if using a mitt, can cause tiny abrasions which build up over time.

Therefore - remove as much dirt as you can before you even touch the paint (snowfoam and pressure washer) - and then when you move onto hand washing use the “2 bucket method” and grit guards in the buckets.

I like gtechniq mitts, shampoo and drying towels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As above ,but I skip the drying towel process with a rinse down from a di vessel . Constantly achieve 99% water mark free results .

dhali wrote:

FaisalJ wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 18, 2019 11:46 pm

You can still marr the surface and cause swirl marks even if it’s coated.

There’s a handy guide on KDS Detailing’s website somewhere.

Essentially you have to keep in mind that moving dirt across the paint by hand, even if using a mitt, can cause tiny abrasions which build up over time.

Therefore - remove as much dirt as you can before you even touch the paint (snowfoam and pressure washer) - and then when you move onto hand washing use the “2 bucket method” and grit guards in the buckets.

I like gtechniq mitts, shampoo and drying towels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As above ,but I skip the drying towel process with a rinse down from a di vessel . Constantly achieve 99% water mark free results .

I need a better DI vessel! I tried this and didn’t get 0pppm water (closer to 15pppm) - which was fine on an uncoated car, but left water spots on the ceramic coated RS4 and R8.

I’ve been eyeing up Li-on leaf blowers...


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On a ceramic coated car you don't need really fancy products or gadgets, it's about the method you use:

1. Power jet-wash the car and wheels to lift the dirt and get rid of surface debris. You can snow foam if you want, but it's a waste of time on ceramic coated cars and achieves very little.
2. Spray wheels with PH Balanced Iron Fallout
3. '2-bucket' wash with a normal PH neutral shampoo, and a couple of wash-mits.
4. Power jet-wash the wheels (not car) and use a mitt if needed for stubborn areas, but the more you rub the more the ceramic coat you've had done will erod.
5. Slow/Flood jet-wash rinse the car and wheels so the water floods off rather than forms droplets (which spot).
6. Dry what water is left (normally very little) with a large drying towel that has some of THIS Detailer sprayed onto/into it (do not spray directly onto the car, spray into the towel) to ensure the ceramic coating stays in its best possible form. Leaf blowers are ok, but you won't be able to put the extra 'detailer' coating on it.

Ceramic coating -
There's more than one way to skin a cat, an so more than one coating formula and more than one way to Ceramic coat, but am posting here just to hopefully hear some opinions & feedback. [Bare in mind that the following cost 'references' are based on Japan market, that vehicle size is C-segment (eg RS4), and that for ease of cross reference I'm using US$'s as currency call out].

Coating process starts out w/detailed Polish. THIS I reliably understand is what makes the difference between a pristine clear gloss or not (much less to do with the follow-on coatings) - Cost $400

Coating applications can vary, the thickness each of which is only a few (~4) microns:(((
[Generalizing, the OEM primer + solid color + clear coat is approx 20~40 microns each, give or take]. To achieve what traditionally is promoted in the Auto Ceramic coating business as 9H hardness say, a min 3+ coatings is needed. [You can choose 10 coats as a menu option, each coating +$200 - the true merit to so many is debatable, although the addition of which is what contributes to hardiness and hence effective scratch resistance].
The Final coat then is typically a 'UV protection + Hydrophobic' coating.
=> my case, 3 hard + 1UV/Hydrophilic coat - Cost $1800 (for Body)

Vehicle Glass coating - Cost $200+
Wheel Rims - Cost not included / considered here.
=> Total Cost $2,400 + tax

Here's the kicker, I feel.
YES, Ceramic coating has merits, BUT
- it is scratch resistant YET can still scratch
- is still is 'recommended' to have annual maintenance - Cost $500 (polish + 1 coating)
- it is still 'recommended' to have TLC 'hand'wash, not machine wash
- starting w/the original Ceramic coating pre-polish, and subsequent annual maintenance polishes (if done), each polish wears down on prior coatings, potentially including the OEM clear coat. (Detail I received on this was vague. A lot of course also depends on the individual(s) carrying out the work)

Given the cost of total Ceramic coat package (relating back to costs in UK, NZ or where ever),
given that coating is scratch resistance but still scratch-able,
given that continuation of (expensive) hand washes are still advised,
assuming you start out w/new car, ......
why would one get Ceramic coat versus say a monthly car hand wash w/hydrophobic shampoo treatment (over the live of ownership)? The latter is cheaper and does not risk over-polishing of OEM clear coat.

I had my RS4 Gyeon MOHS ceramic coated and TBH whilst it looked pretty good for about three months (car was garaged - hand washed by me) and then degenerated badly - firstly the tailgate went kind of 'pink' like it was very badly marred and then the passenger rear door went the same way. The Detailer assures me that the application process has changed now and it's all sorted. Cost £1000 and took 8 days - I traded the car without getting it fixed. Would I get it done again professionally? No. Have bought a couple of decent polishers myself and will have a practice on the wife's car...

Foaming with Chemical Guys Honeydew.
Rinse with warm water pressure washer.
2 Bucket system with dirttrap, Chemical Guys blacklight, microfiber sponge.
Rinse again, dry with microfibre towels - compressed air
A quick coat of Chemical Guys speedwipe.