RS3 8V: One step at a time
RS3 8V: One step at a time
Aye, not for me, I'd prefer to have the warranty when it fails. I understand modifying an old skyline etc, but something new or nearly new doesn't compute.
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
How many cars will do 0-62 in 3.3 seconds straight out of the box? How much are they to buy? I bet this is a lot cheaper, but as Mile says, that unlikely what it's all about. Especially for the OP given how thorough the journey has been documented.
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
I understand this isn't for everyone, but it's about the whole journey for me and with most of these kinds of projects I do (this is my 7th), it's about trying new things.
If I bought a P1 I'd want to mod it!
If I bought a P1 I'd want to mod it!
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
For Stage 2, a couple of grand.
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
OK... things have suddenly snowballed since a long conversation yesterday with Iain Litchfield.
As with most plans, things will undoubtedly change and this stuff will be far from straight forward. I've been down this route before, and it can be painful. Hopefully it will be worth it though.
The plan is:
May
* Test the new v2 Stage 2 map on my car to see how it responds
* Get Syvecs up and running on the current set-up
* Get the pipework made up for a full frame GTX turbo (this might be optimistic for May)
Date TBC
* Start testing turbos, currently looking at three different specs (upper limit will have the potential for well over 700bhp, assuming we can get a specific blower to fit, but obviously not on stock engine)
* Start looking at building a forged bottom end, including custom pistons
* Look at the possibilities of having a billet block made
I'm tentatively looking at getting some serious power out of this lump (as the end goal).
Need to assess costs and logistics first though, so plenty to sort out and a lot to do before even getting to any engine build stage.
Should keep me busy for a bit though.
In the meantime, if any knows or hears of a scrap 2.5 block available and a set of stock pistons (even with mild det on the crown for instance), could you please PM me.
Will be looking at starting the piston design, getting a deck plate made up so the cylinder liners can be honed properly, and also look to "section" the block to see how strong it is. Then scan the block for a billet block build.
I've also been offered these carbon ceramic puppies..... although I haven't been given a price yet, so need to see if this is going to be stupidly expensive before diving in. Look Gucci though, even if my pocket ends up not being "agile" enough!
Will also need a new set of wheels, which I've also located.
As with most plans, things will undoubtedly change and this stuff will be far from straight forward. I've been down this route before, and it can be painful. Hopefully it will be worth it though.
The plan is:
May
* Test the new v2 Stage 2 map on my car to see how it responds
* Get Syvecs up and running on the current set-up
* Get the pipework made up for a full frame GTX turbo (this might be optimistic for May)
Date TBC
* Start testing turbos, currently looking at three different specs (upper limit will have the potential for well over 700bhp, assuming we can get a specific blower to fit, but obviously not on stock engine)
* Start looking at building a forged bottom end, including custom pistons
* Look at the possibilities of having a billet block made
I'm tentatively looking at getting some serious power out of this lump (as the end goal).
Need to assess costs and logistics first though, so plenty to sort out and a lot to do before even getting to any engine build stage.
Should keep me busy for a bit though.
In the meantime, if any knows or hears of a scrap 2.5 block available and a set of stock pistons (even with mild det on the crown for instance), could you please PM me.
Will be looking at starting the piston design, getting a deck plate made up so the cylinder liners can be honed properly, and also look to "section" the block to see how strong it is. Then scan the block for a billet block build.
I've also been offered these carbon ceramic puppies..... although I haven't been given a price yet, so need to see if this is going to be stupidly expensive before diving in. Look Gucci though, even if my pocket ends up not being "agile" enough!
Will also need a new set of wheels, which I've also located.
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
Blimey! Potential 700hp!? This is turning into an epic build thread.
Out of interest, what wheels are you looking at to clear the calipers? I've just put Brembo 6 pots (18z) on the wifeys golf and found that the BBS CH-Rs on there at the moment don't clear without big spacers = arch contact. Options so far seem to be OZ ultraleggeras or TD 1.2's for good clearance.
Out of interest, what wheels are you looking at to clear the calipers? I've just put Brembo 6 pots (18z) on the wifeys golf and found that the BBS CH-Rs on there at the moment don't clear without big spacers = arch contact. Options so far seem to be OZ ultraleggeras or TD 1.2's for good clearance.
2007 RS4 B7 Avant
Phantom Black | Black Optics | MRC Stage 2 | JC Weldfab Exhaust | KW V3 coilovers | H&R ARBs | 20" Ispiri ISR-8 | Titanium wing mirrors | Driving Passion Diffuser | CF Air Intake | Manifold deflap | Alcantara/leather retrim | TT RS Steering Wheel | Pioneer Apple Carplay HU, JL amp and sub, Focal components | Clear Headlight Lenses, Black Internals, 6000K Bulbs | Trups LEDs | LED Tail lights |
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
Something a bit different...... wheels off a Mclaren 650s.FaisalJ wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2017 5:26 pmBlimey! Potential 700hp!? This is turning into an epic build thread.
Out of interest, what wheels are you looking at to clear the calipers? I've just put Brembo 6 pots (18z) on the wifeys golf and found that the BBS CH-Rs on there at the moment don't clear without big spacers = arch contact. Options so far seem to be OZ ultraleggeras or TD 1.2's for good clearance.
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
Yeah yeah I know…... I said I wouldn’t be doing anymore Stage 2 updates, but I couldn’t help myself being drawn back to the strip to see if I could bag an 11.4 quarter.
Santa Pod Peak Performance Test & Tune
I attended what is known as a “Peak Performance Test & Tune” yesterday.
What’s that I hear you say!
These are predominantly “during the week” events where they specially prep the track to ensure it has more grip than normal. This is done by spraying the track with for want of a better word “adhesive”. This greatly benefits cars that are either front or rear wheel drive, and on top of that are running drag radials. Traction is always key down the strip, so this type of track prep really helps these types of cars. Unfortunately it’s not as good for AWD vehicles in my opinion as traction is not normally an issue apart from the start line.
You normally find that whilst you can gain better launch traction, you’ll end up losing time down the rest of the track as you have increased tyre drag due to the increased track prep.
It was something I wanted to try, as a better launch would certainly help me, but that may be negated by slower acceleration times for that rest of the run.
This drag stuff isn’t straightforward….. Especially when you’re hunting down those last few 10ths!
Temps were around 14degs yesterday, but there was a headwind which isn’t something you want.
Unfortunately I suffered with not being to get the grip off the line I expected. However, I managed to consistently get 11.6’s passes in the 118mph range which is still very good, and consistency in times is always a good thing. These three passes ranged from 11.66 to 11.67’s… a whole 1/100th difference!
I needed to see where I was losing time.
This is where the VBOX data logs come in handy.
If we compare the 0-100mph on the quickest run from yesterday (11.66) against the previous data obtained when I managed the 11.55s pass, things start to become clearer.
11.55s pass 0-100mph
Yesterdays 11.66 pass 0-100mph
That’s 2/10ths difference.
So let’s look at the actual VBOX graphing log to see if we can see where it’s losing the time.
Taking the highlighted circles from left to right, the first circle highlights a struggle with traction on launch as green G line takes a while to hit peak G. The second circle highlights an instant drop in G’s, which causes a slight dip in the red line (acceleration curve). This happened at the gearshift point from 1st to 2nd, which I suspect was caused by the car bogging down due to the grippy surface.
Whilst it hasn’t done it until it does it (sounds obvious), I’m extremely confident that on the right day this car will do an 11.4s pass. If you take the 2/10ths I lost off the 11.66 (in comparison to the 0-100mph on the 11.55s pass - especially as we can see the reason above), you come back with an 11.46s pass. All theory clearly, but it has the potential in my opinion.
Anyway…. Apart from the track conditions hampering the runs, which I can’t do anything about, the day proved interesting. I’m very happy with the consistent running on the day. However, suffice to say I won’t perhaps be bothering with another Test and Tune day. I will stick with the normal RWYB days.
There is a remote possibility that I’ll be running the car again on the 30th April, as a number of other RS3’s are attending the Pod for a meet up. It’s doubtful and will depend on conditions on the day.
Stage 3
I have some parts turning up this coming week, so more info on those once they’re delivered.
Santa Pod Peak Performance Test & Tune
I attended what is known as a “Peak Performance Test & Tune” yesterday.
What’s that I hear you say!
These are predominantly “during the week” events where they specially prep the track to ensure it has more grip than normal. This is done by spraying the track with for want of a better word “adhesive”. This greatly benefits cars that are either front or rear wheel drive, and on top of that are running drag radials. Traction is always key down the strip, so this type of track prep really helps these types of cars. Unfortunately it’s not as good for AWD vehicles in my opinion as traction is not normally an issue apart from the start line.
You normally find that whilst you can gain better launch traction, you’ll end up losing time down the rest of the track as you have increased tyre drag due to the increased track prep.
It was something I wanted to try, as a better launch would certainly help me, but that may be negated by slower acceleration times for that rest of the run.
This drag stuff isn’t straightforward….. Especially when you’re hunting down those last few 10ths!
Temps were around 14degs yesterday, but there was a headwind which isn’t something you want.
Unfortunately I suffered with not being to get the grip off the line I expected. However, I managed to consistently get 11.6’s passes in the 118mph range which is still very good, and consistency in times is always a good thing. These three passes ranged from 11.66 to 11.67’s… a whole 1/100th difference!
I needed to see where I was losing time.
This is where the VBOX data logs come in handy.
If we compare the 0-100mph on the quickest run from yesterday (11.66) against the previous data obtained when I managed the 11.55s pass, things start to become clearer.
11.55s pass 0-100mph
Yesterdays 11.66 pass 0-100mph
That’s 2/10ths difference.
So let’s look at the actual VBOX graphing log to see if we can see where it’s losing the time.
Taking the highlighted circles from left to right, the first circle highlights a struggle with traction on launch as green G line takes a while to hit peak G. The second circle highlights an instant drop in G’s, which causes a slight dip in the red line (acceleration curve). This happened at the gearshift point from 1st to 2nd, which I suspect was caused by the car bogging down due to the grippy surface.
Whilst it hasn’t done it until it does it (sounds obvious), I’m extremely confident that on the right day this car will do an 11.4s pass. If you take the 2/10ths I lost off the 11.66 (in comparison to the 0-100mph on the 11.55s pass - especially as we can see the reason above), you come back with an 11.46s pass. All theory clearly, but it has the potential in my opinion.
Anyway…. Apart from the track conditions hampering the runs, which I can’t do anything about, the day proved interesting. I’m very happy with the consistent running on the day. However, suffice to say I won’t perhaps be bothering with another Test and Tune day. I will stick with the normal RWYB days.
There is a remote possibility that I’ll be running the car again on the 30th April, as a number of other RS3’s are attending the Pod for a meet up. It’s doubtful and will depend on conditions on the day.
Stage 3
I have some parts turning up this coming week, so more info on those once they’re delivered.
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
So… some parts have started to arrive today.
High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)
Whilst I suspect many of you have heard of the term HPFP, some may not know what these are.
Cars that have direct fuel injection (as in our RS3’s) inject fuel direct into the combustion chamber via high-pressure injectors, thus improving combustion cooling and enabling higher engine efficiency which is meant to result in increased fuel efficiency and torque. This requires the use of a HPFP.
Direct injection diesels have been using this method for a number of years now….. Which is probably where you’re aware of the costs associated to these pumps when they fail. They don’t appear to be cheap!
As with any fuel system, it’s about delivering fuel at the requested rate constantly (as required). The OEM HPFP has its limits….. Certainly in respect of where I’m looking to go.
I know a few RS3 owners have had issues with OEM pumps not doing what they should do even on stock cars, let alone cars that have started to go down the Stage 1 & 2 route.
There are a number of options available ranging from £300 - £2200. Quite a difference!
I’ve personally gone for the VIS Motorsport upgrade kit which is a new piston and sleeve. Apparently this kit is the biggest piston available to fit the stock pump housing, enabling this specific kit to deliver enough sustained fuelling for up to 700bhp. It also appears to be the cheapest kit available priced at around £300 delivered (this is the current offer price - normally 450 Euro + delivery).
Luckily I knew someone in the UK who had just bought one and was trying it on his RS3 with big blower. Mapping went fine and the VIS HPFP upgrade kit did exactly what was needed on his car and coped with 600bhp no sweat. That was enough for me to pull the trigger.
Just in case you didn’t know what the HPFP looks like, you’ll probably notice this when you open your bonnet again!
Here is the pump with the new piston and sleeve fitted (not that you can really make out any difference), ready to fit to my car.
So that will be the fuelling side sorted.
Spark Plugs
Hardly exciting but another much needed item for the next stage…. NGK R plugs.
These ones are the 7438-8’s. The last 8 being the heat rating and running one step cooler than the stock OEM plugs which are 7’s.
They look quite different as well in respect of the tips.
I understand these don’t need gapping…. Just bang them straight in.
I bought these from Opieoils at £30 a pop (you can get 10% normally by using anyone of their 10% off codes banging around).
That’s it for now, but should have some further parts arriving later this week.
High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)
Whilst I suspect many of you have heard of the term HPFP, some may not know what these are.
Cars that have direct fuel injection (as in our RS3’s) inject fuel direct into the combustion chamber via high-pressure injectors, thus improving combustion cooling and enabling higher engine efficiency which is meant to result in increased fuel efficiency and torque. This requires the use of a HPFP.
Direct injection diesels have been using this method for a number of years now….. Which is probably where you’re aware of the costs associated to these pumps when they fail. They don’t appear to be cheap!
As with any fuel system, it’s about delivering fuel at the requested rate constantly (as required). The OEM HPFP has its limits….. Certainly in respect of where I’m looking to go.
I know a few RS3 owners have had issues with OEM pumps not doing what they should do even on stock cars, let alone cars that have started to go down the Stage 1 & 2 route.
There are a number of options available ranging from £300 - £2200. Quite a difference!
I’ve personally gone for the VIS Motorsport upgrade kit which is a new piston and sleeve. Apparently this kit is the biggest piston available to fit the stock pump housing, enabling this specific kit to deliver enough sustained fuelling for up to 700bhp. It also appears to be the cheapest kit available priced at around £300 delivered (this is the current offer price - normally 450 Euro + delivery).
Luckily I knew someone in the UK who had just bought one and was trying it on his RS3 with big blower. Mapping went fine and the VIS HPFP upgrade kit did exactly what was needed on his car and coped with 600bhp no sweat. That was enough for me to pull the trigger.
Just in case you didn’t know what the HPFP looks like, you’ll probably notice this when you open your bonnet again!
Here is the pump with the new piston and sleeve fitted (not that you can really make out any difference), ready to fit to my car.
So that will be the fuelling side sorted.
Spark Plugs
Hardly exciting but another much needed item for the next stage…. NGK R plugs.
These ones are the 7438-8’s. The last 8 being the heat rating and running one step cooler than the stock OEM plugs which are 7’s.
They look quite different as well in respect of the tips.
I understand these don’t need gapping…. Just bang them straight in.
I bought these from Opieoils at £30 a pop (you can get 10% normally by using anyone of their 10% off codes banging around).
That’s it for now, but should have some further parts arriving later this week.
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
And another box arrives……
A P3 air vent gauge.
Being honest I’ve never really liked digital gauges as I’ve always preferred analogue for things like boost. It’s easier to read in analogue in my opinion, however, since these gauges are mega neat on their installation and convenient to use, I got a bit wallet happy and bought one.
It wasn’t until I had pulled the trigger and bought this gauge, did I then realise I can gain access to much more information and functionality via a bluetooth connection between Syvecs and my iPhone. lol Oh well….. This might be up for sale soon then!
If I intend on keeping this gauge I do need to buy the additional analogue boost module, which enables boost to be read from the vacuum system off the engine. The reason for this and my requirement of this, is whilst the gauge out of the box plugs into the ODB port and reads ODB ECU boost, this generic ODB boost reading is capped to 1.55bar…. I’ll be running more boost than that, so will need the additional module.
I hear that P3 are looking to extend the PID’s accessed via ODB, which may allow the gauge to read the proper internal Audi PID’s…. This would mean correct and full boost reading past 1.55bar.
So what’s this thing do? A lot more than just boost display:
Boost: This mode will show vacuum and boost. Depending on settings in the config menu this may be from ECU data or an external analog sensor. Boost is read in PSI by default and Vacuum is inHg. If you configure the gauge to metric boost/vacuum will be in BAR.
Coolant: Coolant temp. Unlike the needle on your dash, this will show you exactly the temp that your engine is currently running at, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit.
Air: Air intake temperature. This is the reading of the temperature of the air entering the engine, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit. On most vehicles, this reading is taken from the T-MAP sensor on the charge pipe, before the throttle.
IGNTN: Ignition timing. This mode will show you the spark timing of your engine in real-time.
EGT: Exhaust Gas Temperature. This is the temp of the exhaust gas as calculated by your ECU. (canbus vehicles only)
Throttle: Actual throttle plate position. Use this mode to see how your car changes the actual drive by wire throttle blade in relation to what your foot tells it to do.
rp-Shift: RPM readout. It can be handy to use this mode to see an exact RPM or to record/playback and see your shifts.
Speed: Actual road speed direct from VSS. This is the actual road speed value of the car, uncorrected. This is the raw value; therefore it may not match your cluster which tends to read high in many cars. This value is taken from the left rear wheel on most vehicles.
0-60: Performance Timer, 0-60 timer with auto start / stop.
Batt: Battery Voltage. This is the voltage of your cars power system, anything between 13-14.5 volts while running is normal.
Code Reading: Read and Clear diagnostic codes, this happens automatically at startup. On K-Line vehicles this is disabled by default because it delays startup.
Peak Recall: The gauge offers peak recall of the PEAK VALUE on the selected mode, since the last recall, or since the vehicle was started. In addition to this, for 2008+ model year cars the gauge also stores peaks for EGT, Air, Coolant in the background, so that you can switch to that mode later, after a lap for example, and recall your peak temperatures.
Record/Playback: The 15 seconds record/playback feature is available on canbus vehicles only, and provides a way for you to see 15 seconds of historical data from the current mode. Recording is started when the peak recall button is pressed. Simply tap peak recall, do some acceleration, and then after you are able to look at the gauge again, hold the peak recall button and the gauge will show you the first 15 seconds of data from that mode, as well as RPM scaled onto the bargraph readout.
For something that fits very neatly into the oem vent, it provides a lot of functionality.
The gauge is approximately £315 from p3cars.com.
A P3 air vent gauge.
Being honest I’ve never really liked digital gauges as I’ve always preferred analogue for things like boost. It’s easier to read in analogue in my opinion, however, since these gauges are mega neat on their installation and convenient to use, I got a bit wallet happy and bought one.
It wasn’t until I had pulled the trigger and bought this gauge, did I then realise I can gain access to much more information and functionality via a bluetooth connection between Syvecs and my iPhone. lol Oh well….. This might be up for sale soon then!
If I intend on keeping this gauge I do need to buy the additional analogue boost module, which enables boost to be read from the vacuum system off the engine. The reason for this and my requirement of this, is whilst the gauge out of the box plugs into the ODB port and reads ODB ECU boost, this generic ODB boost reading is capped to 1.55bar…. I’ll be running more boost than that, so will need the additional module.
I hear that P3 are looking to extend the PID’s accessed via ODB, which may allow the gauge to read the proper internal Audi PID’s…. This would mean correct and full boost reading past 1.55bar.
So what’s this thing do? A lot more than just boost display:
Boost: This mode will show vacuum and boost. Depending on settings in the config menu this may be from ECU data or an external analog sensor. Boost is read in PSI by default and Vacuum is inHg. If you configure the gauge to metric boost/vacuum will be in BAR.
Coolant: Coolant temp. Unlike the needle on your dash, this will show you exactly the temp that your engine is currently running at, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit.
Air: Air intake temperature. This is the reading of the temperature of the air entering the engine, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit. On most vehicles, this reading is taken from the T-MAP sensor on the charge pipe, before the throttle.
IGNTN: Ignition timing. This mode will show you the spark timing of your engine in real-time.
EGT: Exhaust Gas Temperature. This is the temp of the exhaust gas as calculated by your ECU. (canbus vehicles only)
Throttle: Actual throttle plate position. Use this mode to see how your car changes the actual drive by wire throttle blade in relation to what your foot tells it to do.
rp-Shift: RPM readout. It can be handy to use this mode to see an exact RPM or to record/playback and see your shifts.
Speed: Actual road speed direct from VSS. This is the actual road speed value of the car, uncorrected. This is the raw value; therefore it may not match your cluster which tends to read high in many cars. This value is taken from the left rear wheel on most vehicles.
0-60: Performance Timer, 0-60 timer with auto start / stop.
Batt: Battery Voltage. This is the voltage of your cars power system, anything between 13-14.5 volts while running is normal.
Code Reading: Read and Clear diagnostic codes, this happens automatically at startup. On K-Line vehicles this is disabled by default because it delays startup.
Peak Recall: The gauge offers peak recall of the PEAK VALUE on the selected mode, since the last recall, or since the vehicle was started. In addition to this, for 2008+ model year cars the gauge also stores peaks for EGT, Air, Coolant in the background, so that you can switch to that mode later, after a lap for example, and recall your peak temperatures.
Record/Playback: The 15 seconds record/playback feature is available on canbus vehicles only, and provides a way for you to see 15 seconds of historical data from the current mode. Recording is started when the peak recall button is pressed. Simply tap peak recall, do some acceleration, and then after you are able to look at the gauge again, hold the peak recall button and the gauge will show you the first 15 seconds of data from that mode, as well as RPM scaled onto the bargraph readout.
For something that fits very neatly into the oem vent, it provides a lot of functionality.
The gauge is approximately £315 from p3cars.com.
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
Nice updates, keep them coming!
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
Fantastic thread ! You know your onions
Top work
Top work
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
We need more updates!
B7 RS4 Saloon, Phantom Black, Forge Oil Cooler Kit, 20 x 10.5j Vossens, Carbon Front Splitter, KW V3 Coilovers, Adjustable Front Arms, 20mm Spacers, Revolution Carbon Air Box, Rear 4 Pot Porsche Brake Conversion, Stud & Nut Kit, Milltek Non Res Non Valved Exhaust, RS6 Gloss Black Grill, Slightly Tinted Windows, JH Motorsports Stage 3R Clutch & Lightweight Flywheel, Robnic Braided Clutch Line. JH Motorsports Lightweight Grooved F & R Rotors with Braided Hoses and Hawk Pads
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
Very informative thread Shaun, couple of points though which I can't get my head around.
You talk of Stage 2 but you have made no mention in this thread on the most important and critical point of a Stage 2 tune with that being the exhaust system, as far as I can tell you are running a stock exhaust system with stock cats in place
Instead, you (Or shall I say Litchfield) have substituted an exhaust system with an intercooler and called it Stage 2. Litchfield are not a renowned VAG tuner and they set their "Stage" numbers differently to the more known VAG tuners. What Stage would they label your car with if it had a catback exhaust added, and would they add on another Stage when you add the most important hardware mod being the downpipes? They do it with their Nissan GTR Stage numbers, a Stage 4.25 GTR in the VAG world is simply a Stage 2. It's semantics of course but I'm struggling with the fact that you're running a standard exhaust setup.
Stage 1 - Software Only
Stage 2 - TBE being the primary hardware modification but intake and intercooler can be added as secondary hardware.
Stage 3 - Hybrid Turbo
Stage 4 - Big Turbo.
This is how the mainstream VAG tuners do it (MRC/APR/Revo etc) It's obviously just a Litchfield thing.
You've been very thorough in the thread but I was surprised to read through and learn you have made no mention of the TBE (Unless I've missed it?) -It's probably one of the most important modifications you can do when setting up a car, far more important than the likes of an intercooler or an intake.
I'm like you in many ways, burst onto the scene with a tuned TTRS setting 1/4m records up and down the country, lots of VCDS and Vbox testing at 2 in the morning etc. I had over 250 drag strip runs alone on my TTRS.
Brings me onto my next point, your vbox stats. You've gone into very fine detail about vbox verify etc but committed the number 1 sin of using a vbox. You cannot (Its impossible infact) use 1 foot rollout and get an accurate 0-60/100mph, 0-200kmh time. Your 0-60 in 3.3 is not correct, that's measuring after 1 foot has been used and speed already at 5mph or so, what you're doing by leaving 1 ft rollout on is measuring 5-60/100mph acceleration, not 0-60/100mph. You only select 1 ft rollout for drag strip 1/4m use, that's it. It's to simulate the 12 inches you have at a drag strip before you break the timing beams in order to give the vbox an accurate 1/4m time. If you're not doing a 1/4m, the 1ft rollout needs to be switched off. Leaving it on gives you a minimum 0.2sec advantage but can be as high as 0.3-0.35secs. The vbox display of 3.3 is incorrect as if you plotted this in vbox tools, it would show the 0-60 (corrected) to around 3.5-3.6.
It's constructive criticism rather than a dig, it's just you have created a superb informative thread but made a couple of schoolboy errors or omissions (in my opinion) - Perhaps you'll pick up on the exhaust and 1ft rollout points I have raised though?
There's an RS3 8V running 11.3-11.4 1/4 times in Scotland (Crail). It's An APR Stage 2 car (Milltek TBE, no FMIC) so I'm afraid you may have England's quickest (Tested) RS3 but not the UK's
Anyway, keep up the good work, I look forward to what Stage 3 brings. Personally, for the big turbo stuff, I would opt for a VAG based tuner, I wouldn't take my Nissan GTR to revo for example, the same way I wouldn't take an Audi RS to a GTR/Japanese specialist tuner. How many big build 2.5T conversions have Litchfield undertaken? How many have APR/MRC undertaken, do Litchfield have the skills and expertise (and time) to perfect a reliable build of the 2.5T engine? MRC/APR etc use a company called Race Developments for engine work who know the 2.5t engine inside out back to front blindfolded for example, how much do Litchfield know? Just points to consider
You talk of Stage 2 but you have made no mention in this thread on the most important and critical point of a Stage 2 tune with that being the exhaust system, as far as I can tell you are running a stock exhaust system with stock cats in place
Instead, you (Or shall I say Litchfield) have substituted an exhaust system with an intercooler and called it Stage 2. Litchfield are not a renowned VAG tuner and they set their "Stage" numbers differently to the more known VAG tuners. What Stage would they label your car with if it had a catback exhaust added, and would they add on another Stage when you add the most important hardware mod being the downpipes? They do it with their Nissan GTR Stage numbers, a Stage 4.25 GTR in the VAG world is simply a Stage 2. It's semantics of course but I'm struggling with the fact that you're running a standard exhaust setup.Stage 1 - Software Only
Stage 2 - TBE being the primary hardware modification but intake and intercooler can be added as secondary hardware.
Stage 3 - Hybrid Turbo
Stage 4 - Big Turbo.
This is how the mainstream VAG tuners do it (MRC/APR/Revo etc) It's obviously just a Litchfield thing.
You've been very thorough in the thread but I was surprised to read through and learn you have made no mention of the TBE (Unless I've missed it?) -It's probably one of the most important modifications you can do when setting up a car, far more important than the likes of an intercooler or an intake.
I'm like you in many ways, burst onto the scene with a tuned TTRS setting 1/4m records up and down the country, lots of VCDS and Vbox testing at 2 in the morning etc. I had over 250 drag strip runs alone on my TTRS.
Brings me onto my next point, your vbox stats. You've gone into very fine detail about vbox verify etc but committed the number 1 sin of using a vbox. You cannot (Its impossible infact) use 1 foot rollout and get an accurate 0-60/100mph, 0-200kmh time. Your 0-60 in 3.3 is not correct, that's measuring after 1 foot has been used and speed already at 5mph or so, what you're doing by leaving 1 ft rollout on is measuring 5-60/100mph acceleration, not 0-60/100mph. You only select 1 ft rollout for drag strip 1/4m use, that's it. It's to simulate the 12 inches you have at a drag strip before you break the timing beams in order to give the vbox an accurate 1/4m time. If you're not doing a 1/4m, the 1ft rollout needs to be switched off. Leaving it on gives you a minimum 0.2sec advantage but can be as high as 0.3-0.35secs. The vbox display of 3.3 is incorrect as if you plotted this in vbox tools, it would show the 0-60 (corrected) to around 3.5-3.6.
It's constructive criticism rather than a dig, it's just you have created a superb informative thread but made a couple of schoolboy errors or omissions (in my opinion) - Perhaps you'll pick up on the exhaust and 1ft rollout points I have raised though?
There's an RS3 8V running 11.3-11.4 1/4 times in Scotland (Crail). It's An APR Stage 2 car (Milltek TBE, no FMIC) so I'm afraid you may have England's quickest (Tested) RS3 but not the UK's
Anyway, keep up the good work, I look forward to what Stage 3 brings. Personally, for the big turbo stuff, I would opt for a VAG based tuner, I wouldn't take my Nissan GTR to revo for example, the same way I wouldn't take an Audi RS to a GTR/Japanese specialist tuner. How many big build 2.5T conversions have Litchfield undertaken? How many have APR/MRC undertaken, do Litchfield have the skills and expertise (and time) to perfect a reliable build of the 2.5T engine? MRC/APR etc use a company called Race Developments for engine work who know the 2.5t engine inside out back to front blindfolded for example, how much do Litchfield know? Just points to consider
MY16 Audi RS6
Re: RS3 8V: One step at a time
Isn't the secondary cat more restrictive than the main cat? If so then this is a stage 2 build.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 44 guests