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Boring but technical!,

does anyone know what type of adhesive I need to use to replace the glue in the K04 cold side compressor housing?

Have the turbo in bits at the moment and want to put it back together by tomorrow,

Any help welcome, cheers

You need Red Loctite crankcase sealant, that's what KKK use.

Thanks Mihnea, that's just what I needed to know, perfect, that answer is no where else on the web!, I have looked everywhere.

Just changed the CHRAs, they shouldn't need balancing should they? The CHRAs are new and sealed from Borg Warner.

Thanks again.

tdiquattro wrote:Thanks Mihnea, that's just what I needed to know, perfect, that answer is no where else on the web!, I have looked everywhere.

Just changed the CHRAs, they shouldn't need balancing should they? The CHRAs are new and sealed from Borg Warner.

Thanks again.

I only hope for you that you didn't get chinese knockoffs thereof... quite a few of those out there...

Anyway, balancing isn't needed as they have been balanced before they left the factory.

Thanks Mihnea,

Nope, these are genuine Borg Warner, boxed up from the factory. Got the adhesive, the correct one is of the 500 series of hard setting Loctite Anaerobic gasket compounds.

I used 510, but I have also been recommended 515 (very similar) by a well known turbo re-builder, they are both the flourecent orange non-silicone gasket that sets hard.

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/515-EN.pdf

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/510-EN.pdf

The turbo CHRA replacement is very easy, here are some quotes about it...... but if you are not re-using the existing CHRA then levering off the glued section isn't a worry, if you are refurbishing the centre assembly with new seals and bearings etc, then maybe heating it would be a good idea.....
Some Quotes from the web...

"KKK turbos have a couple of issues when it comes to rebuilding:
1) The compressor housing is sealed to the compressor backplate using an elastomeric material making removal difficult. Even with all the bolts out, the housing will stick to the backplate. Pulling it off wrong will put a boatload of thrust force on the compressor wheel and shaft. To separate them I've used heat from a torch to warm up the housing (though I've never expected the turbos I've played with to run again so...)
2) The bolts holding the exhaust housing to the CHRA are little whores. If they move at all, you're lucky. There's little room to get in there, especially on some of them, and because of exhaust heat over time they can be extremely hard to remove. More heat may be required to loosen them...
When you remove the four M6 bolts holding the housing on the cold-side, you'll likely find the housing will not come off, at least not easily. The housing is a pretty tight fit over the back plate and on top of this, there's a sealer (like silicone) used to seal the assembly that has pretty strong adhesive properties. You'll probably get the most traction if you introduce some heat. I've used a propane torch to heat the housing around its periphery and then carefully tap it loose.
But no matter how carefully you tap, you're going to put thrust loads on the shaft and wheels so you'll have to be careful. ""

Another tip is that the hot side bolts referred to above are not 10mm, they are very slightly less, I used a 3/8 spanner, but a grinder on a 9mm would be good to get a very tight fit as you have to use an open ended spanner.