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My B5 S4 came with a recent set of H&R coilovers fitted to it. It's a bit low for me so have adjusted it up a bit, especially after reading the post about ideal ride heights.
One thing that occured to me is should you loosen off all the suspension bolts and then tighten them after the adjustment has been made as surely these would have been tightened up with the car at a different height?

John

Should make no difference as the suspention travels up and down during normal driving.

Strange then that the advice when chaning the suspension arms is to do up all the suspension bolts to specificed torque when the vehicle is resting on it's wheels.

John

I guess it depends on how far you have moved the suspension, if lets say it is an inch I don’t think I would bother as by the time that is translated to the bush it will be FA.

Also I guess you don't know (?) if this was even done when the suspension was fitted, I discovered last night from Grizz that you can do this without undoing the suspension, so it's kind of up to you if you wanted to be thorough it would not do any harm...

Most important thing to do is get plenty copper slip on the threads when setting the height as they will cease if not covered in grease.

Don't bother your ars* with the arms.

Does anybody know the formula for adjusting ride height. I need to lower my RS4 after fitting revalved Bilsteins (made to fit 2.7 S4) I`ve got specially made springs aswell so although the damper has been ringed with circlip to lower it shes still riding too high.So how much lower does the circlip have to go to result in 1cm off the ride height?
P.S. The second revalving has got the ride I`ve been looking for.

waitey1 wrote:Does anybody know the formula for adjusting ride height. I need to lower my RS4 after fitting revalved Bilsteins (made to fit 2.7 S4) I`ve got specially made springs aswell so although the damper has been ringed with circlip to lower it shes still riding too high.So how much lower does the circlip have to go to result in 1cm off the ride height?
P.S. The second revalving has got the ride I`ve been looking for.

No real formula it would depend on the spring rate.

Best to measure the distance from a constant, say the bottom of the threads to the spring locking rings. Reduce this distance to lower the car, I start with say 10mm on each axel, front first then rear. Return the car onto its wheels move it forward and back to settle the suspension, then measure the distance from the lower edge of the wing to the top of the wheel rim repeat to get equal distance.

Some cars especially transverse 1.8Ts need to be wound up slightly more on the drivers side front, as they are slightly heavier on this corner.

Corner weights are good for this.