Geometry

Discuss common aspects of Audi RS and S tuning and modifications
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fade2grey
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Geometry

Post by fade2grey » Thu Nov 06, 2003 5:11 pm

First off, I'm not sure if the geometry is fully adjustable on the S4\RS4 but does anyone have any preferred settings for castor\camber on the front or rear? I guess since a lot of you seem to do track days, this will have been tinkered with a fair bit.

A
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Andiroo
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Re: Geometry

Post by Andiroo » Thu Nov 06, 2003 5:46 pm

Surprisingly enough no [img]images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] I would like to, and I'm sure other guys would as well, just wouldn't know where to start - usually leave that sort of setup to the guys fitting aftermarket suspension, sort of one stup suits all [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

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Re: Geometry

Post by wazza » Thu Nov 06, 2003 5:50 pm

More importantly - I want my car setup for the road, not the track, as even the most diehard track user will spend less than 5% of their mileage on track.
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PhilT
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Re: Geometry

Post by PhilT » Thu Nov 06, 2003 5:53 pm

Here are the settings for the RS4 with stock and quattro GmbH suspension.

I have some figures that people have told me, would be interesting to see what you guys come up with.
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Re: Geometry

Post by jeffw » Thu Nov 06, 2003 6:26 pm

The interesting thing with those figures Phil is the increase camber which something that the car (S4) needs....

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Taipan
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Re: Geometry

Post by Taipan » Thu Nov 06, 2003 6:44 pm

The other interesting part is that the french guy in charge of importing Quattro GmbH parts to France told me, after investigating with Quattro, that the settings for the stock and the "sport pack Quattro GmbH" were identical.

I had the upgrade installed Tuesday (shot 3-4 pix + some interesting graphs done by the in-house lab, will post later) and although the springs are shorter, the shocks have the same size but a narrower "min-max span".
As a result, the car is EXACTLY at the same height before and after. Which seems to fit with the principle of identical settings ?

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fade2grey
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Re: Geometry

Post by fade2grey » Thu Nov 06, 2003 6:48 pm

Yup.. lot's of improvements could be make on the std geometry.. ie a little toe out on the front would give more 'feel' to the steering & small changes in the rear castor or toe could make the care more or less tail happy - ideal for tuning to how you drive.

If the adjustability is there already, it's free speed [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Andiroo.. a tyre temp guage might be handy if you want to do it yourself but full alignment gear would be needed for specific changes. Most likely will probably be that the stock suspension isn't too adjustable (if at all) but that shouldn't be too much trouble for you [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

A
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Re: Geometry

Post by Mog » Thu Nov 06, 2003 7:53 pm

Eric..I had the GMBH suspension fitted a couple of weeks ago and the car is deffo the 20mm lower as I was expecting.

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kiwi_mtm
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Re: Geometry

Post by kiwi_mtm » Sat Nov 08, 2003 1:43 am

I'm lookin at a suspension for my rs4, cauz it rolls like a battle ship !! My A4 180 Sport (Sach) handles way way better.

Anyone tried H&R ? The Gmbh isnt the cheapest, and i kinda wonder if there is better value out there ?

I dont track, but just want suspension that can handle the RS4 power through the twisties, but not too hard either.
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Golich
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Re: Geometry

Post by Golich » Fri Nov 14, 2003 6:54 pm

I changed my stock S4 suspension to RS4 springs n shocks. As far as I could see, there is no factory given way to adjust the front end camber/castor. Only the rear has adjustment eccentric washers to adjust both the camber and the tracking. i.e. how the rears line up with the front.

You would have to obtain some kind of slotted top damper mounting to adjust the front or simply slot the mounting holes in the body. [img]images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] Not something I would recommend. But they must have to do this on most production cars converted for track use. I don't know how they do that?

The only good thing about the above is that a simple swap of the shocks n springs doesn't really require a 4 wheel alingment as you don't actually remove anything that will effect the 4 wheel alingment. The parts you loosen are either located by dowels or bolts in very close tolerance holes.

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