RS4 Engine Pull Tools & Longer 5th/6th gear parts

[dummi]

5th is almost always 1.0 in these, you just need the 5th to 6th syncro i think

[philipwalker]

Top work.

A bit of general advice.

You dont need to remove the aircon rad when pulling the engine out. I remove the condenser from the rad mounts then move it round and hang it off the offside front wheel suport it with an old timing belt.

Saves on regassing and stops any moisture being drawn into the system while the lines are open.

[MarkB]

Nice work Rich, you don't hang about do you!

Is the car in a state that it could be lowered back on to it wheels and rolled around? When I do my engine pull I'll need to roll the car back with the engine hanging...

[viperbl]

So, 5th to 6th Syncro and 6th Gear ?? I thinking this won't come with that part number? That part number is just 6th?

Cheers Philip, I took it off because it was empty of gas anyway, but I did not know I could keep it on, so good advice for next time (and I am sure there will be!) If the front of the car is taken off, surly the air con rad will come off at the same time???

Mark, Yes, I could put the subframe back in place, wheels on, and just need to watch the half shafts knocking about, but it should wheel no bother then. No power steering fluid in place, so assume it will work, just alot harder?????

[philipwalker]

It unbolts from the main water rad, then you can lift it off and round to the side of the car and support it

[viperbl]

It unbolts from the main water rad, then you can lift it off and round to the side of the car and support it

Ah, got you ... good idea that ... cheers.

I just remembered, I did not "rubber glove" up the actual air con rad ... does this mean moisture has got in? Do I need to do anything before I re attach?

[MarkB]

Mark, Yes, I could put the subframe back in place, wheels on, and just need to watch the half shafts knocking about, but it should wheel no bother then. No power steering fluid in place, so assume it will work, just alot harder?????

The engine pull howto I read said to take the halfshafts out, but also didn't mention dropping the subframe.

I was forgetting the power steering would need disconnecting, can't remember reading anything about that in the howto.

[viperbl]

The engine pull howto I read said to take the halfshafts out, but also didn't mention dropping the subframe.

I was forgetting the power steering would need disconnecting, can't remember reading anything about that in the howto.

Suppose you could, but I think its just as easy to leave them in, on the re entry I think I need to make sure they are in place when its like 6" above the resting place otherwise they will not fit? apart from that its working.

You could probably get it out without dropping the subframe, but its only a few bolts and just give me so much more room to play with ...

What "how to" are you reading? The one I used was this one @ AudiWorld

[philipwalker]

It unbolts from the main water rad, then you can lift it off and round to the side of the car and support it

Ah, got you ... good idea that ... cheers.

I just remembered, I did not "rubber glove" up the actual air con rad ... does this mean moisture has got in? Do I need to do anything before I re attach?

Should be ok.

Who ever regasses the system make sure they run a 15/20 mins of vacume to get any moisture out.
Main reason is, when the lines are left open with no rubber gloves etc to seal the moisture is drawn in by the silica gel contained in the dryer. Whe re gassed the moisture will freeze and block the dryer/system. Any moisture will also degrade the oil in the system over time.

The text book suggests you should change the dryer every time the lines are open.

[MarkB]

What "how to" are you reading? The one I used was this one @ AudiWorld

Yep that's the one

[viperbl]

Got a few questions for putting the engine back in ...

- Gearbox oil cooler pipes to rad, do they just feed themselves? I assume I just fill the gearbox up to the level off the side plug and then let the pipes feed themselves when the engine starts?

- How to refill the clutch master/slave cylinders? Air locks etc a problem? Do I need to bleed it through?

- Do I need to bleed or do anything special to refill the PS reservoir? or just fill the little reservoir?

- Torque settings for bolts? Like half shaft bolts, sub frame bolts, drive shaft bolts, engine mount bolts etc?

- What Gearbox Oil/Clutch Oil and PS Oil should I use?

Any answers to the above would be helpful ... cheers

[GardinerG]

If only I had the space and the tools to do this kinda thing. I wonder what your hourly rate is for this job? Bet you would be cheaper than the mainstealers!

OT but I am going to have to build a kit car with the boys when they are older, something with a blown V8.

[dummi]

blimey you rebuilt the gearbox already

i'll c if i can find you the torque setting for the drive shafts.

[viperbl]

Ah, not sure I would attemp this one someone else car just GardinerG!!!

Well, gearbox is nearly finished, with a company in Manchester, just waiting on the new 6th gear ... which hopefully should be here soon. Gearbox place had a look at the front diff, all ok, middle diff is not so nice, so might need to get a new one sorted out there soon, but easy enough to do I think, don't have to take the box out or anythign ...

[yorkie]

Don't know what you do for a living but you could be in the wrong job