Hi All,
I have had a look at the rear CV joints due to a slight knock on pulling away through 1st and 2nd. Only there when warm and gone under high load (acceleration). I have checked the boots for grease and added plenty. Still no change but I am not sure I can easily check with the shafts in place.
Words of the wise appreciated.
Joules
CV joint checking - Is there any easy way ??
CV joint checking - Is there any easy way ??
C63, (C6) RS6 Avant, (C5) RS6 Avant, (B5) RS4 Avant, RS2 Avant, S4, S2, EVO IX 400 BHP
Re: CV joint checking - Is there any easy way ??
If it is CV joints you should hear it when slight power is applied (once the 'wind-up' has been taken out of the shafts)...or when you take power off.
The only way that I'm aware off is to remove the drive-shaft and check for play manually.......at which point you might as well have the spares ready to put back on [img]images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
Not much help I'm afraid.
The only way that I'm aware off is to remove the drive-shaft and check for play manually.......at which point you might as well have the spares ready to put back on [img]images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
Not much help I'm afraid.
Re: CV joint checking - Is there any easy way ??
Thanks Jeff,
I was afraid someone would say that...
I doubt they are cheap...
Joules
I was afraid someone would say that...
I doubt they are cheap...
Joules
C63, (C6) RS6 Avant, (C5) RS6 Avant, (B5) RS4 Avant, RS2 Avant, S4, S2, EVO IX 400 BHP
Re: CV joint checking - Is there any easy way ??
I've got a front end creak that occurs when I am making a sharp slow speed turn or at relatively slow speeds on round-abouts.
I had thought control arms (and had some changed under warranty- no improvement [img]images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] ). Apart from involving steering input the occasions when it happens generally involve you (gently) coming off and on the power.
The mechanic at the independent garage who welded my exhaust said he could only hear it when he was on full lock for example when doing a U turn thought the problem was an outer CV joint.
Does this sound likely?
How about drive shafts?
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
David
I had thought control arms (and had some changed under warranty- no improvement [img]images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] ). Apart from involving steering input the occasions when it happens generally involve you (gently) coming off and on the power.
The mechanic at the independent garage who welded my exhaust said he could only hear it when he was on full lock for example when doing a U turn thought the problem was an outer CV joint.
Does this sound likely?
How about drive shafts?
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
David
Re: CV joint checking - Is there any easy way ??
Dave,
Very hard to tell from your description. CV's tend to knock repetitively so it doesn't sound like them....
A creak??? sounds like bushes to me...
Try with the car stationary and turn lock to lock...
Otherwise try and describe the circumstances in a little more detail.
Joules
Very hard to tell from your description. CV's tend to knock repetitively so it doesn't sound like them....
A creak??? sounds like bushes to me...
Try with the car stationary and turn lock to lock...
Otherwise try and describe the circumstances in a little more detail.
Joules
C63, (C6) RS6 Avant, (C5) RS6 Avant, (B5) RS4 Avant, RS2 Avant, S4, S2, EVO IX 400 BHP
Re: CV joint checking - Is there any easy way ??
DJG,
For what it's worth, my experience of worn FRONT CV joints is they will CLICK like hell under power but generally only when cornering. The frequency of the clicking is directly related to speed. It's a very clear click.
Don't know anything about rear CV joints. since they don't turn with respect to corenering. Although if they are anything like your typical front wheel drive CV joints there is nothing to them and relatively easy to inspect once dismantled.
Just looked at the ERWIN manual. It shows both the front and rears as typical CV joints secured to the drive shaft by standard 'C' clips. The manual shows a 'special tool' to drive the drive shaft through the CV hub. Having said that, it doesn't look any different from the numerous CV joints I've removed. The special tool appears to basically be a pusher rather than a puller for those cases where the shaft is tight on the hub with dirt/rust etc. Gentle taping with a soft hammer usually does the trick.
There is a special dished washer which has to go a specific way with respect to the 'C' clip. Just note it's direction on removal. Other than that whip it of and clean out he old greese so you can inspect the balls and races for pitting marks etc.
The manual shows all this as faily standard. Although I note the lower track control arm is from the top down through the hub. This could make it's removeal by means of a 1.5m long pole as typical with most cars a little more tricky. Perhaps a second jack on the lower arm will do or a ball joint remover although these tend to split the rubber gaitors. OK if the ball joint is goosed. To check the lower ball joint for wear prior to removal, try levering the ball out of it's socket eg. with a large screw driver.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
For what it's worth, my experience of worn FRONT CV joints is they will CLICK like hell under power but generally only when cornering. The frequency of the clicking is directly related to speed. It's a very clear click.
Don't know anything about rear CV joints. since they don't turn with respect to corenering. Although if they are anything like your typical front wheel drive CV joints there is nothing to them and relatively easy to inspect once dismantled.
Just looked at the ERWIN manual. It shows both the front and rears as typical CV joints secured to the drive shaft by standard 'C' clips. The manual shows a 'special tool' to drive the drive shaft through the CV hub. Having said that, it doesn't look any different from the numerous CV joints I've removed. The special tool appears to basically be a pusher rather than a puller for those cases where the shaft is tight on the hub with dirt/rust etc. Gentle taping with a soft hammer usually does the trick.
There is a special dished washer which has to go a specific way with respect to the 'C' clip. Just note it's direction on removal. Other than that whip it of and clean out he old greese so you can inspect the balls and races for pitting marks etc.
The manual shows all this as faily standard. Although I note the lower track control arm is from the top down through the hub. This could make it's removeal by means of a 1.5m long pole as typical with most cars a little more tricky. Perhaps a second jack on the lower arm will do or a ball joint remover although these tend to split the rubber gaitors. OK if the ball joint is goosed. To check the lower ball joint for wear prior to removal, try levering the ball out of it's socket eg. with a large screw driver.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
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