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Saturday, 60 mile run.

Although running smoothly, the car had no more power than a normal non-turbo 2 and a bit litre car. And the 60 miles cost me over a quarter of a tank of V-Power.

After being parked for half an hour (at Silverstone for the Caterham Experience, do it, it's a hoot!) I was asked to move it and it wouldn't start.

Tried the old "water down the inside of the cam cover" gag - shown to me by MRC at Castle Combe at the Audi Day last year when the car got a bit hot. It's to clean or cool the Hall sensor, I forget which. It worked at Castle Combe, it didn't work on Saturday.

After four or so hours of Caterhaming the car started perfectly and all the power was back.

What the hell's all that about?

Don't forget, I'm the one who said mine runs better on V-power than on anything else, to the consternation of others who felt I may have air mass sensor problems.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
DickyC

Whats the boost level when you have no power, could be turbos,split tube, dump valves or any numbers of connectors. You will need more details, do you have vag com. I had similar with an S4 and it turned out to be a mix of a few different things, all of which caused errors that vag com found.

There's no boost guage on the RS2, Mike, maybe I should fit one. But thanks for the input, I think we're saying give it to the experts. It's just that it runs so well when it chooses, I want it to be something specific breaking down rather than a collection of things conspiring together.

And I just have this thing about taking cars to garages with intermittent faults. In my experience the blank cheque is never very far behind.

not starting when cold could be a hall sender issue,but then again high consumption could be lambda as well as MAF.you should have a vagcom to see the error codes listed in,and erase them to see what will come up.I dont think it has something to do with the fuel,otherwise you may have been hearing the fuel pump being noisier as well

It was still hot when it wouldn't start. When it had cooled off it started fine and ran better.

I'll put it in and have it looked at. Any other ideas in the meantime will be gratefully received.

Thanks.

oh sorry i meant to say hot start not cold start.so it may be the hall sender.Problems on cold starting usually relate to a temp sender at the rear of the block

Maybe I didn't get the water down the inside of the cam cover in quite the right place! It feels toe-curlingly primitive when you're doing it but when the car starts on the button it's great.

Anyone know if Hall sensors go progressively? "Work or don't work" is easy. "Work most of the time" is a pain.

Check the codes

The no boost sounds like the waste gate frequency valve which when fails gives you mechanical boost only. It may have died or be doing its job due to another fault

The hall sensor is the likely culprit re the non starting issue

Thanks everyone.

I'll book it in.

The gremlins beat me. Before I booked it in, it failed in London and had to be brought home to Newbury Audi on a low loader.

That'll teach me for trying to delay the inevitable.

Still, the car looked quite dignified on the low loader and I now know what it feels like to be on a float in the Lord Mayor's Show.

DickyC wrote:The gremlins beat me. Before I booked it in, it failed in London and had to be brought home to Newbury Audi on a low loader.

That'll teach me for trying to delay the inevitable.

Still, the car looked quite dignified on the low loader and I now know what it feels like to be on a float in the Lord Mayor's Show.

Happens to the best of em!
Good luck with the fix.
Let us know the outcome.
rs2315.

Okay, then.

The Audi diagnostic wizard says there are faults on both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. His recommendation is do the crank sensor first and have a long road test and re-diagnosis. His thinking is that the fault with the crank sensor may lead the camshaft sensor to show a fault when there may not be one. This is also the cheaper option by some margin.

However, as it's almost due a new cambelt I've gone for both sensors and a new belt and the related bits and bobs while they're at it. That'll fix it.

Yes, I know it's expensive but the reliability will be back and the flat spots will be gone.

You can always spot me in a crowd, I'm the one with his fingers crossed.

Sounds good to me Dicky:)

Check the timing is correct for the RS2 rather than the S2 ABY. Its 1 tooth retarded & check its an RS2 waterpump. See this thread for more http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread ... rs2+timing

Hope it works out too Dicky