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Still more to chew over !
5 Handbrake stripped inspected adjusted Much better but still will not always hold on steep incline (Dundas street at rush hour for those around Edinburgh !! ) Upset the van behind today Is there a permanent fix??
6. Can you adjust the bonnet release mechanism if its stiff??
7. Exhaust smoke white cold days until warm still present Suggested to be condensation in exhaust(which I am sure is most of the answer) Will cleaning the throttle body pipe help??
8 Front shocks mild oil sweating(checked with service agent 12/12 ago noted same not fixed) Shocks fine any concern?? If replace I will probably go with org spec boge rather than konis. Ride rigid enough. Where would I source correct spec outwith main agent stealers.
The pro align 4WD reset have really allowed me to enjoy the handling which I think is far better than my S2 with konis Sure its the ARBs and slightly lowered rideheight.
Bumped into another RS2 newbie when collecting car. He had been chasing mine but had gone on to get nice RS blue one. Small world!!

5. Don't know - other RS2ers have had similar problems - there are some posts on here.

6. It could be too much tension on the springs. Before you go adjusting this I would attach some tie-wraps to the wires, so the tie-wraps hang under the car(you will need to add a few on to get it long enough) - just incase you can't it open - there is an easy way to open the bonnet if you get stuck but I won't post on here.

7. Seems to be common on RS2s - more so than S2s.

8. www.vagparts.co.uk or euro car parts might even be able to get the genuine parts - they have a depot in Edinburgh now - it's at Turnhouse.

The stiffer ARBs make a huge difference to S2s as well.

Cannot recall a posted solution re handbrake rather comments like mine So if you know of one let me know!!

Thanks again Doug

I'm sure Cobster got the rear brakes reconditioned and they were better?

There is an RS2 yahoo group list that you can search through as well.

Here is the parts diagram for the RS2 handbrake mechanism:

[img]modules/pnCPG/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10849/rs246_norm_RS2%20handbrake.JPG[/img]

As you can see it is essentially a drum brake setup within the hub part of the rear disc (the same idea as BMW use). The thinking behind it being that if the rear discs get really hot with heavy use & you then use the disc for the handbrake, as the rear disc cools & contracts the handbrake could then be effectively released. Sensible theory then to use a seperate drum setup for the handbrake. The only problem being that the drum brake doesn't get any use in the general braking so the whole system is prone to corrosion & the shoes can become glazed & loose their grip - resulting in a poor handbrake. The answer being to strip down the brake, clean it out, inspect the shoes (may not need replacing but may need to be roughened up) & replace any bits that look corroded. The springs are between £2 - 4 each & the repair kit (no. 8 ) on the diagram about £10. Also check the cables & that the outer mech is moving freely etc.

I haven't done this yet myself, but it is something on my to do list. Cobstar had a problem when the handbrake on one of her rear wheels effectively seized on I think.

Hope this helps

Thanks for all the feedback I have actually improved the handbrake by using it ie pulling it on at low speeds and driving short distances with it on I will report back if this solves the rush hour hill blues!!