Anyway now I have wired in an ignition switched 12V feed which turns the radio on when you turn the key in the ignition barrel to position 1 or further and does not turn the radio off until you remove the key from the ignition barrel. So just like in a newer Audi the radio will remain on even after you have turned the engine off and with the ignition switch in position 0 until you take out the key.
Although I realise that many of you may have already done this wiring modification I could not find any thread on the forum telling me how to do it, so here is what I did:
Remove the lower dash panel beneath the steering wheel and above the pedals, by undoing the three 10mm hex headed screws and then puliing the panel down slightly and towards you. You are then faced by the auxillary relay panel:
[img]modules/pnCPG/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10849/lights%20on%20buzzer%201.jpg[/img]
At the far right hand end on the bottom row is the lights on warning buzzer. This is marked 292, part number 443 951 307 B. You can check this by turning on the lights with the driver's door open, you will be able to feel it vibrate aswell as here it.
Now before proceeding any further disconnect the negative battery terminal - having first made sure you know your radio code, set your alarm to the apropriate mode etc.
If you have a close look at the lights on warning buzzer you will see that is fed by four wires: red, grey, white and brown:
[img]modules/pnCPG/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10849/lights%20on%20buzzer%202.jpg[/img]
The red wire is the ignition switched 12V feed from the ignition key switch. If you feel reasonably competent in car electrics and are confident to hack into the precious wiring loom of your car then all you need to do is pull back some of the loom black fabric tape to give you better exposure and then splice a new wire into the red wire - be careful there is not a lot of slack in the red wire. Then carefully feed you new wire to the rear of the radio, being careful to apply new insulating tape to your loom and using cable ties to attach the new wire to the existing loom to ensure that it keeps clear of the steering column etc.
Now all you need to do is re-configure the wiring to the black ISO connector. The existing arrangement that you will probably have is a permanant 12V feed from the battery going to both pin 4 and pin 7. The standard wiring arrangement is to have the ignition switched 12V feed going to pin 7 and the permanant 12V feed from the battery to pin 4. With pin 8 being the earth, pin 6 being the dashboard illumination feed to the radio, and pin 5 being the radio switched 12V feed to the aerial (and also goes back to the white wire feeding the lights on warning buzzer in the RS2). Pins 1,2 and 3 are usually not connected (pin 2 is sometimes a radio mute control wire used by handsfree phone kits etc.). Now before you wire your ISO connector in this way please check any adapter lead that may be going to your head unit and the head unit itself. For some completely unknown reason VW/Audi wire the ignition switched 12V feed to pin 4 and the permanant 12V feed from the battery to pin 7 for all their OEM head units.
Although it is unlikely that you have an Audi/VW OEM head unit any adapter lead you may have may have been wired to compensate for this switching the position of the wires from pin 7 and pin 4 in the adapter lead - so please check.
Anyway if you are still with me you should now have an ignition switched 12V feed to your radio.
I hope that helps.
