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Morning all.

Looking at a R4S4 today at 3.30 and would like your advise on what you think the main things are that I should be looking out for, Neckarsulm has already kindly given me some pointers, but I was just wondering if any of you chaps had any further suggestions... the more I know what to look out for, the better. Going armed with VAGCOM so also if there's any tests I should be doing in particular please also let me know. Is is there any I should be doing while the car is in motion? also, where is the key for the engine cover located so I can check the diverter valve? What are the 'walk away codes'..

Thanks guys.

J

No advice really,but good luck i hope its a good one.
Check body panels are all in line and gaps are the same on doors bonnet etc

Don't think the engine cover has a key. Certainly doesn't on the S4, just a couple of plastic screws which turn 90 degrees to open.

re: Vagcom - I can't think of any 'walk away' codes, but ones to be wary of are:
* Anything to do with boost (eg: positive deviation, etc.) which could indicate a boost leak. If they have been driving a car with a boost leak for a while, it could have damaged the turbos.
* Any Lambda or EGT sensor faults - These can cost a bit to replace
* System running lean/rich could be a sign of a dodgy MAF - Around £100 to replace but also can cause EGT sensor damage if it's been driven like this for a while
* Check block 032 on Vagcom and make a note of the two 'part throttle' values. If these are high, it can indicate a boost leak or fuelling issues.

If the owner is happy for you to run some logs, you want to try and hold it at WOT in 3rd gear from low rpms-> 6500rpms.
Log blocks:
003 - Shows MAF reading - peak value should give you an indication of whether the MAF works ok. You'll also be able to work out the FATS time to compare how it's running against other RS4's.
115 - Shows requested vs. actual boost - will highlight boost leaks

You can always post your findings once you've been to see it and i'm sure people will be happy to 'translate' the Vagcom results.

I would say:give it WOT in 5th and/or 6th a few times from lowish revs to beyond spoolup;the boost will be high at spoolup and can reveal dodgy noises like whistling from leaking DV's or a turbo on it's way out.
It's also a test to show if the clutch is slipping.

Also check the Y-boostpipes that run from the ic's to the engine at the connections just below the carbon-cover for oily deposits after the testdrive,as they are known to have a boostleak there and the right-hand one-standing in front of the car-will show this as oily deposits.

When I said key Honahon, I meant in the absence of the correct tools (i.e. a flat blade screwdriver), the ignition key blade can be used to undo the screws (Ash318 taught me this trick) - no risk of damage as they aren't tight
Also check the DIS screen has all it's lines complete
Make sure you do at least 70 to feel for buckles in rims.
Remove caps and check the wheel part numbers, if they end in AE it's the hard wheels, if T then soft and if unkerbed will be replaced by Audi (probably once and for all to hard wheels now).
Check life on discs and pads and tyres as all costly
After a run check for smell of warm oil from engine which points to leaking cam cover (s)
Look for entry wear to sill extension (scuffs)
Chips up back doors and front of wings/bonnet
Should be a Sticker (or two) under bonnet and one on slam panel.
Check VIN displayed when you interrogate engine ECU with Vag Com matches car - should be WUA to start as it's quattro GmBH built, not WAU as you get on mainstream Audis.
make sure it hits 90 easily and stays there on coolant temp gauge-it's had a recent cambelt but I bet the stats not been done.
Then say a prayer cos it's impossible to 100% check out a car like this with our mortal powers (just realised I bought mine on Friday 13th, reverse superstition I call that)

Check block 093 in vag-com / engine. It will show the Cam adjustment values and ideally they should be close together or within 6 of each other nearer the limits. If not it means the timing is slightly out and cams may need re-timed.

Jesus I glad I singed up to this forum, thanks all for the advise.

I'm really nervous!! feel like I'm going for a job interview.

Leaving in an hour, fingers crossed this is the one or I'm just give up and buy and M3 or another 911

Also check the cars get up to temp (90deg) within about 5 mins as if not couild signal thermostat problem.

Listen for any ticking on idle too.

Buy mine......

I'd not panic too much. If it looks an honest car, has a good history and drives well then it's probably fine.

be interested to see what you made of the car and i'm sure you'll advise. Thats a fair list from Neckarsulm but none walk away, most usual wear and tear and most negotiable i would say. Paint chips, scuffs are regular occurrences. Are you saying check it has them...or be wary if it has? DIS displays are rubbish - most will have crappy lines, the RS4 I bought had the worst DIS out of the ones I looked at (and is currently being refurbed - 170quid all in - after it became unreadable) but the car was by far the best condition / spec everywhere else. I guess he needs to just evaluate everything and consider if its good enough for him or not!

Judging by the last car I viewed for Honahon he doesn't want too much to put right (that needed two lambdas and a boost leak sorting but was otherwise mint)

neckarsulm wrote:Judging by the last car I viewed for Honahon he doesn't want too much to put right (that needed two lambdas and a boost leak sorting but was otherwise mint)

Those faults in my opinion don't represent a well looked after car

mikeyquattro wrote:

neckarsulm wrote:Judging by the last car I viewed for Honahon he doesn't want too much to put right (that needed two lambdas and a boost leak sorting but was otherwise mint)

Those faults in my opinion don't represent a well looked after car

Very true BUT your average driver won't know alot about boost leaks and O2 sensors so they aren't going to put them right and your average Audi stealer will miss a boost leak too. When I bought mine at 38k it was running like a dog and I got the leak sorted by Doug, DV's done and health check and it felt like a new car.

Didn't you buy yours from NJ?