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We could do with a one off buyers guide on this forum.

Things to look out for:

1. Carpets - worn drivers side
2. Bent wheels -ok if soft, not ok if they are the hard type will cost you money
3. Clutch - can go as early as 25K. Classed as wear n tear item as far as warranty is concerned at least £1K to replace.
4. Turbos - have been known to leak oil from as little as 25K miles. Covered by warranty in most cases.
5.Easily grounded so check under belly, sumps CATs exhaust for damage.
6. Gearbox check for excessive crunching.
7. Cam belt and associated pulleys/water pump. To be replaced at 40K miles
8. A diagnostic trouble code (DTC) a check performed by VAGCOM £140 piece of software and OBD lead can check for all obvious codes. Can also determine if the car is chipped by monitoring the boost pressure on a run.
9. As with the A4s the front suspension ball joints can go. They squeeke when pressing down on the front of the car. They don't typically go until 60K miles on S4s etc.
10. 4 disks n pads cost over £1K to replace. Check their condition.
11. Rear Parcel shelf mount as with all avants. The location slots can wear and squeeke. £120 per pannel 2 off.
12. Oil leaks from either turbo lines or rocker cover gaskets.
13. Tyres at least £150 per corner for a half decent tyre. A proper Audi aligment check is approx £120. A kwik fit type alignment check is a waste of money.

General checks

14. Confirm that the Chassis No. Bottom passenger side of the windscreen matches the V5 doc.
15. Check for overspray on or under the rubbers of all window and door seals. + over spray on plastic inner arches or under the rear and front bumper.
16. Check the bolts which hold the wings on for damaged paint. Can indicate replaced wings etc.
17. Check overall alignment and gaps of bonnet to wing, bonnet to lights, bumper to lights, bumper to wing door to wing.
18. Rear diff oil seals
19. Check every single electrical item i.e. windows, central locking stereo, cruise, tailgate electric locks

These are just off the top of my head I could go on and on.

The magazined "Used car" has a very comprehensive and handy pull out check list.

Thanks for that Golich!

Could one of the moderators assist and start up a sticky Buyer's Guide thread?

Could one of the moderators assist and start up a sticky Buyer's Guide thread?

Done. Please add to this post....

1. I was told that brand new front seats can indicate side impact due to air bags going off. Seats should look a little worn.

2. The flimsy nylon undertray often cracks but can be replaced by an aluminium one.

3. Check all rubber hoses and looms in the engine bay for bite marks. No kidding, my cars engine bay was eaten out by rats while it lay dormant for a month or so! I still have a bite mark in one hose to prove it!

4. Get everything checked out, but don't be suprised if you find nothing wrong at all!

40k mile serivce parts and cost - http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=PNp ... &p=951#951

Given the age of our cars. The exhaust should be checked - not a cheap item to replace 4 CATs in all !

There is one mounting that fails from what appears to be stress corrosion when there is still at least another year /two left in the exhaust from the cases that I have seen and others I know off. (2 on my own cars i.e. B5 S4 and RS4 with 40K.)

Some dealers/garages etc are not interested in removing the exhaust and welding the mounting and will opt to replace the entire CAT back section. (Approx £450 for a quality Milltech CAT back section)

The mounting in question is situated on the rear section of the original exhaust between the two rear silencers. It can be seen without jacking the car. Viewed from the rear of the car looking forward along the exhaust it’s the first mounting welded directly to a bend in the exhaust pipe (just forward of the very rear silencer).

The mounting supports the exhaust via a standard rubber band type. I found the corroded mounting can be built back up with weld material or at worst a new mounting made.

Note – If opting to weld the exhaust as with any welding I would strongly recommend you remove from the car. I don’t know how these modern electronic driven cars handle being welded. I was always taught to disconnect the batter leads on older cars something to do with damaging the alternator/battery/ECU. It’s not worth the risk, besides you can make a better job welding it off the car.

Gilch, thanks for this, v. useful

Desmo

Regarding the timing belt service, I was horrified recently to discover that while my belt and one of the rollers had been replaced. The second roller and tensioner was not. It is not possible to establish this from the service book alone as they merely write timing belt change. Only the receipt or a call to an Audi service Dept can confirm the parts fitted. (assuming the belt has been changed by an Audi steelership)

If all 4 items are not changed then technically this invalidates your warranty as the service manual clearly calls for all 4 items to be replaced at 40k service. I would imagine this goes for every 40K i.e. 80K 120K etc.

Audi extended warranty for these cars is a bit of an eye opener.

The 4th years Audi cover is £780. This is a fully comprehensive all parts warranty - very good but car MUST be serviced by an Audi dealership as per the service schedule.

The 5th year Audi warranty is £1080 BUT this is a now a down graded NAMED PARTS ONLY policy.

Personnaly if your into your 5th year and want a warranty you are better off with a 3rd party policy. eg warranty direct etc. for approx £350 but that was for my S4 3 years ago.

Were there any changes in its short life? More standard options in late models?, any slight body changes in 2002?

Were there different power outputs like the S3 210-215-225 - I’ve heard and read 365-375-380 Bhp as standard outputs.


Great checklist BTW.

IIRC two different types of ECU, but same output.

Well i was going to post in the classifieds but i cant yet so ill put it here i suppose.
I was wondering where some good places would be to inquire for purchasing an RS4.
I am in the States and i know of a few around the country but no one with any info on where to look , or places to contact.
I would be trying to find a Nagaro Blue RS4 with the trimmings carbon ,sunroof, ac, cruise,Navi , and black leather with the blue Alcantara seats... If anyone thinks they might be selling theirs in the future or knows a good place to contact for locating autos please let me know. I know importing is going to be a pain , but its so worth it. My wife has finally given into the fact that i will have my stable of RS modles to compliment here stable of warmbloods.. =]

You probably want a left hooker from Germany and import it via Canada. From what I've heard, it's a lengthy process.

Try autoscout.de for a selection of cars.

PhilT wrote:You probably want a left hooker from Germany and import it via Canada. From what I've heard, it's a lengthy process.

Try autoscout.de for a selection of cars.

Outstanding, thanks for the link... ill check it out.
yes its a lengthly and expensive process, about 10-15k US to legalize one but........so so so worth it!

i can tell you this from the person i purchased mine from, it is a major pita. i can try to get some more info on the federalizing house that he eventually went with. it took almost three years to get a title, and a sign off from the federal transportation admin. it might be easier to get one in through mexico, but canada is straight out. they have tougher importation laws.