I have found orange front and blue back Pagid break pads now but how do i fit them. My dealer will not tell me. It is easy? Do i need to unscrew bolts? how much tight do i do them?
Please help please
Chris
How to fit Rs4 break pads please
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I am assuming you have never worked on brakes before (sorry if this is not the case) I would agree with simple1simple1 wrote:I'm affraid I would go with the old motto:
'If in doubt, leave it to somebody who knows what they are doing'
Brakes are such a critical item. You really shouldn't touch them unless you have some knowledge/experience of this before.
Well to be honest I have yet to even remove a wheel from my RS far less change the pads. (Only owned it for 5 months.)
But they can't be much different from any other design of callipers I have come across over the years. i.e. pads are held in by a combination of pins and springs. In the case of the S4, A small Allen headed screw helped locate the pad.
At the risk of appearing to patronise you. Just be very observant of how things like springs are located. Sometimes I take the time to sketch the configuration before removing anything.
What ever you do, don't let anyone press the pedal while the pads/callipers are off.
You typically don't have to remove the calliper to remove the pads, but if you do, these are usually held on by two bolts of usually 17mm head. The front calliper pistons can be retracted with the assistance of a 'G' clamp. Watch the fluid levels in the reservoir. You shouldn't have to remove or add fluid, as the reservoir is designed to hold enough fluid to compensate for pad wear. However, I've known people to top-up the reservoir. Not realising this!!
The rear calliper pistons will need to be rotated while simultaneously pressing them in. This is due to the self adjustment mechanism for the handbrake.
I have successfully managed this with the assistance of an extra pair of hands. i.e. one to screw the 'G' clamp while the other simultaneously rotates the piston in a clockwise direction with a wide mouthed adjustable pliers. Just be careful not to damage the anti corrosion chrome coating on the piston or damage the delicate dust seal.
Of course the proper tool is best and an inexpensive universal one can be purchased from most car enthusiast shops/tool shops.
To be blunt, if don't already know all off the above don't touch them, because this is basic knowledge!!
But they can't be much different from any other design of callipers I have come across over the years. i.e. pads are held in by a combination of pins and springs. In the case of the S4, A small Allen headed screw helped locate the pad.
At the risk of appearing to patronise you. Just be very observant of how things like springs are located. Sometimes I take the time to sketch the configuration before removing anything.
What ever you do, don't let anyone press the pedal while the pads/callipers are off.
You typically don't have to remove the calliper to remove the pads, but if you do, these are usually held on by two bolts of usually 17mm head. The front calliper pistons can be retracted with the assistance of a 'G' clamp. Watch the fluid levels in the reservoir. You shouldn't have to remove or add fluid, as the reservoir is designed to hold enough fluid to compensate for pad wear. However, I've known people to top-up the reservoir. Not realising this!!
The rear calliper pistons will need to be rotated while simultaneously pressing them in. This is due to the self adjustment mechanism for the handbrake.
I have successfully managed this with the assistance of an extra pair of hands. i.e. one to screw the 'G' clamp while the other simultaneously rotates the piston in a clockwise direction with a wide mouthed adjustable pliers. Just be careful not to damage the anti corrosion chrome coating on the piston or damage the delicate dust seal.
Of course the proper tool is best and an inexpensive universal one can be purchased from most car enthusiast shops/tool shops.
To be blunt, if don't already know all off the above don't touch them, because this is basic knowledge!!
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