Mog
New Flywheel Fitted
New Flywheel Fitted
I had the new lightened flywheel fitted today at AMD...big thank you and WOW what a difference, its like the car has had a remap...instant throttle response and as a bonus there is no additional noise which I was expecting.
Mog
Mog
2009 Focus RS
2006 Subaru Forester STi..440bhp
2006 Subaru Forester STi..440bhp
Hi Mog,
Can you tell me the cost of the flywheel and fitting (PM if you prefer).
I had the Tanoga flywheel on the S4 which was great but I was not too
happy with the metallic rattle at low revs.
If the Fidenza part does not have this effect then I would be very
interested in fitting it.
Can you tell me the cost of the flywheel and fitting (PM if you prefer).
I had the Tanoga flywheel on the S4 which was great but I was not too
happy with the metallic rattle at low revs.
If the Fidenza part does not have this effect then I would be very
interested in fitting it.
************
Prawn
Prawn
Surely with a free reving engine output is increased as the engine doesnt have the resistance to rev up?Willy-RS4 wrote:1: I heard that after fitting lightned flywheel, car accelerate faster, but loosing Torque (Nm)? Is that true?
2: Do someone here tried MTM or Dahlback Racing Clutch kits?
As for the clutch formMTM I think both John Roberts and JohnRS4 have this kit, basically an on/off clutch I think
Bushy
Can't beat a bit of boost!
Personally no issues with the Tanoga flywheel, the mechanical vibration people complain about is only when you put the engine under load under 2000rpm, which to be fair is not a good place to be asking it to produce any power, change down!!!!giovanni wrote:And how about running continously at low rpms ? any ups and downs ?
Bushy
Can't beat a bit of boost!
I am wondering if lowering the total drive chain (flywheel+gears+wheels+tyres) weight of the same amount of an aluminium clutch does not lead to same results ?
When I accelerate on the road, my engine has to rev up ALL the drive chain so (i.e.) if I lower the wheels weight of the same amount of an alu cluctch I will get the same result. Or not ?
When I accelerate on the road, my engine has to rev up ALL the drive chain so (i.e.) if I lower the wheels weight of the same amount of an alu cluctch I will get the same result. Or not ?
Hhhmm I've been thinking about all this - Giovanni I reckon you are on the right track. It is all about reducing inertia.
And Willy-RS4 I think what you heard about the reduced torque is also right. But in a good sense. Follow my argument. Hey I'm no exepert I'm just thinking out loud and trying to put my school phyisics to use.
If an object that is free to rotate about an axis it is difficult to set into rotation, its moment of inertia about that axis is large.
Inertia = Mass x Radius^2. (squared) Therefore, you can have two different flywheels, rims etc that weigh exactly the same but their mass is distributed at different radi resulting in significantly different values of inertia.
Torque = Inertia x Angular acceleration (i.e. rotational acceleration)…. (2)
Therefore, from equation 2 above, any reduction in inertia (e.g. reducing the weight of a flywheel or rim of the same radius) would result in a reduction in torque.
But this is a GOOD reduction in torque!
This is a reduction in the torque required to accelerate the inertia. In other words, the engine has to exert less torque to the flywheel, rims etc in order to produce the same angular (rotational) acceleration.
Therefore, leaving more torque to accelerate everything else like the gearbox, drive shafts, wheel bearings, basically anything that is being put into motion.
But before you all go mad buying the lightest flywheels or have your stock ones machined etc.
a flywheel by definition is designed to have a high value of inertia. An engine needs a method of storing its rotational energy. A four stroke engine only produces a power stroke every forth cycle. So something has to keep the crankshaft spinning to keeping the piston stroking, the camshaft rotating to push the valves open against their springs, the water, oil, power steering, AC pumps rotating etc etc until the next power stoke 3 cycles later in a 4 stroke engine. The inertia of the flywheel is the specific device for maintaining this rotation.
So hence at low RPM there is a potential for the engine to stall if you reduce the mass of the flywheel too much.
I've heard of examples of lightened flywheels where the engine runs ok until high load is put on the engine at idle. For example, by the alternator caused by switching on the rear heated window, turning on the lights, operating an electric window in combination with the AC unit while turning (power steering). Resulting in the engine stalling unless higher than idle rpm is maintained – Clearly too much inertia, usually in the form of mass has been removed.
So given the above I would have thought the single most effective and practical uncompromising mods to reduce inertia and increase acceleration times would be to fit lightened allow wheels and a lightened flywheel.

And Willy-RS4 I think what you heard about the reduced torque is also right. But in a good sense. Follow my argument. Hey I'm no exepert I'm just thinking out loud and trying to put my school phyisics to use.
If an object that is free to rotate about an axis it is difficult to set into rotation, its moment of inertia about that axis is large.
Inertia = Mass x Radius^2. (squared) Therefore, you can have two different flywheels, rims etc that weigh exactly the same but their mass is distributed at different radi resulting in significantly different values of inertia.
Torque = Inertia x Angular acceleration (i.e. rotational acceleration)…. (2)
Therefore, from equation 2 above, any reduction in inertia (e.g. reducing the weight of a flywheel or rim of the same radius) would result in a reduction in torque.
But this is a GOOD reduction in torque!
Therefore, leaving more torque to accelerate everything else like the gearbox, drive shafts, wheel bearings, basically anything that is being put into motion.
But before you all go mad buying the lightest flywheels or have your stock ones machined etc.
So hence at low RPM there is a potential for the engine to stall if you reduce the mass of the flywheel too much.
I've heard of examples of lightened flywheels where the engine runs ok until high load is put on the engine at idle. For example, by the alternator caused by switching on the rear heated window, turning on the lights, operating an electric window in combination with the AC unit while turning (power steering). Resulting in the engine stalling unless higher than idle rpm is maintained – Clearly too much inertia, usually in the form of mass has been removed.
So given the above I would have thought the single most effective and practical uncompromising mods to reduce inertia and increase acceleration times would be to fit lightened allow wheels and a lightened flywheel.
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