New Flywheel Fitted

2.7 V6 30v biturbo - 380 bhp
Mog
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New Flywheel Fitted

Post by Mog » Thu Apr 22, 2004 7:42 pm

I had the new lightened flywheel fitted today at AMD...big thank you and WOW what a difference, its like the car has had a remap...instant throttle response and as a bonus there is no additional noise which I was expecting.

Mog :nogarors4:
2009 Focus RS
2006 Subaru Forester STi..440bhp

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AFAP18
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Post by AFAP18 » Thu Apr 22, 2004 9:38 pm

Which fly wheel did you put? Did you also installed a new clucth?

Freak
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Mog
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Post by Mog » Thu Apr 22, 2004 9:55 pm

It was the Fidenza Alloy Flywheel and the original clutch was kept as it had only done 8500 miles.

Mog :nogarors4:
2009 Focus RS
2006 Subaru Forester STi..440bhp

kennyboy
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Post by kennyboy » Fri Apr 23, 2004 8:23 am

its like the car has had a remap...instant throttle response
Mog,

As your car had been fettled by AmD prior to the new flywheel, are you saying you don't need/ didn't have another remap after fitting the flywheel?

cheers

Kenny
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Post by Bushy » Fri Apr 23, 2004 9:42 am

After changing the flywheel you shouldn't need another remap, the exisitng code will work as the engine just revs quicker, so the same code works, just quicker to climb the revs


Goon, you know it makes sense
Can't beat a bit of boost!

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Post by Prawn » Fri Apr 23, 2004 11:08 am

Hi Mog,

Can you tell me the cost of the flywheel and fitting (PM if you prefer).
I had the Tanoga flywheel on the S4 which was great but I was not too
happy with the metallic rattle at low revs.
If the Fidenza part does not have this effect then I would be very
interested in fitting it.
************

Prawn

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Post by Mog » Fri Apr 23, 2004 8:59 pm

All I was trying to say was that the car felt as though it had had another boost /remap in power terms because of the increased acceleration.

Prawn you have PM

Mog :nogarors4:
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2006 Subaru Forester STi..440bhp

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Post by Bushy » Fri Apr 23, 2004 9:24 pm

the effect is going to be the same whatever make as there is nothing to absorb it ina lightened flywheel

Bushy
Can't beat a bit of boost!

Willy-RS4
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Post by Willy-RS4 » Wed May 12, 2004 11:04 pm

1: I heard that after fitting lightned flywheel, car accelerate faster, but loosing Torque (Nm)? Is that true?
2: Do someone here tried MTM or Dahlback Racing Clutch kits?

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giovanni
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Post by giovanni » Wed May 19, 2004 7:59 am

And how about running continously at low rpms ? any ups and downs ?

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Post by Bushy » Wed May 19, 2004 11:45 am

Willy-RS4 wrote:1: I heard that after fitting lightned flywheel, car accelerate faster, but loosing Torque (Nm)? Is that true?
2: Do someone here tried MTM or Dahlback Racing Clutch kits?
Surely with a free reving engine output is increased as the engine doesnt have the resistance to rev up?

As for the clutch formMTM I think both John Roberts and JohnRS4 have this kit, basically an on/off clutch I think


Bushy
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Post by Bushy » Wed May 19, 2004 11:50 am

giovanni wrote:And how about running continously at low rpms ? any ups and downs ?
Personally no issues with the Tanoga flywheel, the mechanical vibration people complain about is only when you put the engine under load under 2000rpm, which to be fair is not a good place to be asking it to produce any power, change down!!!!

Bushy
Can't beat a bit of boost!

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Post by Willy-RS4 » Wed May 19, 2004 11:11 pm

Thank you Bushy, you are right.
I think anyone wants strong clutch kits, but on/off clutch not funny in town!
But I used Cusco twin plate clutch on my previous car EVO7, and it was much more easear to use it in town than the original one!

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giovanni
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Post by giovanni » Wed May 19, 2004 11:51 pm

I am wondering if lowering the total drive chain (flywheel+gears+wheels+tyres) weight of the same amount of an aluminium clutch does not lead to same results ?
When I accelerate on the road, my engine has to rev up ALL the drive chain so (i.e.) if I lower the wheels weight of the same amount of an alu cluctch I will get the same result. Or not ?

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Post by Golich » Thu May 20, 2004 10:10 am

Hhhmm I've been thinking about all this - Giovanni I reckon you are on the right track. It is all about reducing inertia.

And Willy-RS4 I think what you heard about the reduced torque is also right. But in a good sense. Follow my argument. Hey I'm no exepert I'm just thinking out loud and trying to put my school phyisics to use. :?:

If an object that is free to rotate about an axis it is difficult to set into rotation, its moment of inertia about that axis is large.

Inertia = Mass x Radius^2. (squared) Therefore, you can have two different flywheels, rims etc that weigh exactly the same but their mass is distributed at different radi resulting in significantly different values of inertia.

Torque = Inertia x Angular acceleration (i.e. rotational acceleration)…. (2)

Therefore, from equation 2 above, any reduction in inertia (e.g. reducing the weight of a flywheel or rim of the same radius) would result in a reduction in torque.

But this is a GOOD reduction in torque! :boots: This is a reduction in the torque required to accelerate the inertia. In other words, the engine has to exert less torque to the flywheel, rims etc in order to produce the same angular (rotational) acceleration. :thumbs:

Therefore, leaving more torque to accelerate everything else like the gearbox, drive shafts, wheel bearings, basically anything that is being put into motion.

But before you all go mad buying the lightest flywheels or have your stock ones machined etc. :shock: a flywheel by definition is designed to have a high value of inertia. An engine needs a method of storing its rotational energy. A four stroke engine only produces a power stroke every forth cycle. So something has to keep the crankshaft spinning to keeping the piston stroking, the camshaft rotating to push the valves open against their springs, the water, oil, power steering, AC pumps rotating etc etc until the next power stoke 3 cycles later in a 4 stroke engine. The inertia of the flywheel is the specific device for maintaining this rotation.

So hence at low RPM there is a potential for the engine to stall if you reduce the mass of the flywheel too much.

I've heard of examples of lightened flywheels where the engine runs ok until high load is put on the engine at idle. For example, by the alternator caused by switching on the rear heated window, turning on the lights, operating an electric window in combination with the AC unit while turning (power steering). Resulting in the engine stalling unless higher than idle rpm is maintained – Clearly too much inertia, usually in the form of mass has been removed.

So given the above I would have thought the single most effective and practical uncompromising mods to reduce inertia and increase acceleration times would be to fit lightened allow wheels and a lightened flywheel.

:greyrs4:

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