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There are easier, seemingly higher quality too, options than buying the bearing and splitting the propshaft. While this option is undoubtedly easier, I cant agree its higher quality. There is no bond to the outer race of the bearing, this relies purely on friction for that role, and we all know sil...

You replaced it only because if the center bearing? There are easier, seemingly higher quality too, options than buying the bearing and splitting the propshaft.

https://kawemila.jimdofree.com/english/home/

ATinOf wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 06, 2021 10:15 pm

I always take the liners off to take the bumpers off and on, assumed everyone else did!?!

No. I just need an opening to get to said nut so I remove a few of the arch liner screws, that's it.

I would even say that it's not worth going for Wagner ICs if you have the stock turbochargers. Why not buy used, but not leaking, intercoolers?

Considering that the o-ring seems to last around 10 years you can hope that the repair will give you 15 years peace of mind, given the higher temperature resistance of materials like Viton.

They are fitted just like the stock ARBs. No modification and no problems installing them.

https://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=134904&p=937934 See Ian's answer, the second post. With the 850's you're entering territory where you need to improve fuel supply. Either Loba HPFP, Autotech's upgrade kit for the same pumps or another LPFP together with bigger injectors. You can limit th...

Has anyone removed the subframe and so had to support the engine? I'm thinking if it's sufficient and safe to use only the rear lift points.

If someone has used the VW/Audi engine support I'd be very interested to know where to place the front left (driver's side on a LHD car) leg.

Thanks.

C_J wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 08, 2020 8:21 pm

I’m pretty sure it’s not engine out to change the pas pump on these.

I haven't replaced it myself but those who have say that the engine can stay in the car.

KWheeler wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 04, 2020 10:02 am

I'm aware of the oil seal leak and that is engine out etc, as well as potential problems with DRC, what else is worth noting in terms of turbo's, intercoolers, injectors etc?

The engine can stay in place when doing the oil pump seal.

Mat20vt wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 22, 2020 9:31 pm

Is there any things to look out for, oil seal is one, isn’t there an issue with coolent pipes?

It's a possible issue. Have a look in the wheel arch, driver's side on an RHD. You might want to remove the wheel arch liner to get a better look.

In the meantime, I looked at the coolant pipes, and this is what I found ... so at least I shouldn't have to drop the engine in the near (or far) future for _this_ reason :) In case it would be necessary in the future - there is no reason to drop the engine to replace the pipes. The intake manifold...

Yes again.
https://www.imageupload.net/image/S0t3s
https://www.imageupload.net/image/S0PGg
https://www.imageupload.net/image/S0Iqd

You can use these as well. https://www.gfbuk.com/product.details.c ... uctid=1027
No springs to swap in them.

Yes.