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So... We have just bought a 2012 A4 Technik TDi E Avant as a general family runabout just waiting for the dealer to do a service, belts and stick a fresh ticket on it before I collect. Seems big enough, comfy and cheap to run, pedal on the right is a bit disappointing but to be expected for an eco 2...

Check your engine earth to chassis. Multimeter between the block and chassis on volts. If you see 10-14volts DC when you 'crank' the engine it's your engine to chassis earth. That was my cockup when I had the engine out. I now have a massive ground cable from sub frame mounting to where the aircon ...

The only corrosion on any of mine was minor and above where the dust seal sits (you can see it on the picture I posted of the smaller piston). This corrosion was slight and cleaned off very easy with a little fine scotch disc in a dremel. I'd be surprised if you really need new pistons. Sent from my...

They are barely magnetic and not that heavy, so I suspect stainless steel, the main body I believe is hollow (from the weight) and the top cap pressed on. The overall look is grey, I'd guess a ceramic coating of sorts (they dont look or feel like phenolic pistons from a motorbike caliper. I must say...

Does this help?

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I've just checked my spare calipers and definitely 28 and 32. I can probably find my pistons this evening (in an ice cream tub in the garage somewhere) and measure up the height and seal gaps if you need.

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28 and 32mm rings a bell. I may have a set in the garage to measure up. Do you just need the caliper bore size for the pistons?

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Shoppinit wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 15, 2021 9:33 pm

How does that compare to plastidip?

No idea, never used either, I've just seen the Cromas stuff recommended as an alternative to the rubberised powder coat for use on plastics.

I reckon that could be Cromas EROS paint over a black primer.

I have a CO2 laser at work for cutting/etching... hmmmmmmmmmm.

Will get some pictures later this week.

Yeah, DPO means I'm well versed in the 'righty tighty tighty loosey bollocks' sensation, I think I've helicoiled half the M6s in the block during the rebuild. saying that for the head bolts I was concentrating much more on getting the final angles right than what they felt like when putting them in,...

You sure it's coming from the head gasket? What's the compression doing? Seems crazy that the head gasket could fail to the extent that it would leak oil to the outside of the engine without major running issues. Yep, I've had a little endoscope camera in there while its running and I get a trickle...

Threads would have yielded during the torque down process if they were going to go (IMO). Bolts could be duff e.g manufacturing fault, could be torqued too high and yielded, but I'm not sure that this would be possible before the block threads give way. That is my thought process, they felt fine th...

Shoppinit wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 30, 2021 7:38 am

What torque wrench do you use? A good one?

Big stuff 1/2"
Teng Tools for wheel bolts
Halfords Pro for everything I'm bothered about

Medium 3/8"
Draper Expert for general stuff
TorqueLeader Dial indicator for small stuff

And they get looked after, slackened off when not in use etc.

So to bring this thread from the dead back again. Headgaskets were done all to the specs on ElsaWin. New bolts... lots of new bolts! Everything well cleaned and torqued up to spec. engine ran sweet as a nut, and behaved very nicely for a number of runs out to bed everything in again (and sort out da...