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I remember reading that the Bosch 5.7 puts more brake force on the rear wheels on light braking. You shouldn't however reach temperatures in any disc over 50 degrees with normal driving and braking, you should easily be able to touch them after stopping.

That's exactly how you kill them - by not using them.

Most callipers on that list don't fit. A well known problem with Autodoc, every time you search for something rare-ish you get these random parts that aren't even for the same car. You need one with a 43mm piston, and the only one is the TRW.

I don't know, but I wouldn't personally risk it. 19" OZ Superleggeras have a load rating of 690kg/wheel, I'd say that is sufficient. Here's a handy-dandy chart which I've been making/collecting: Wheel / size / offset / weight / max. load (if found): Enkei RSM9 7.5x19 ET50 8.30kg 700kg OZ Superforgia...

Not all lightweight wheels can handle a two-tonne monster like the RS6. Make sure you check the max. wheel load, it could be only 500-600kg in some cases.

S6 C7 400x38 discs have the same offset as rs6 c5 365x34, simple 2cm spacer is enough between the carrier and calliper. you just need to cut 2mm off from each side so it will fit inside the calliper.

Try to find an old HEX+CAN interface, better value for your needs and for that matter you need both K-line (actually Dual K-line in RS6 C5) and CAN support. There was also a cable with only CANbus support (Micro-Can)

The thread isn't on the subframe, the bolt goes though the subframe bushing onto the body itself. This is what happens to strech bolts when you tighten them, and in the last photo, when you do it again and again and again.. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/misc/stretched%20bolt.jpg http://i.imgur...

It's always recommended to change all arms, there might be play in some of the others and therefore causing the new one to die prematurely. You did set the final torque with the wheels "up" at the driving height? Subframe bolts are stretchy single-usage bolts, they also have to be changed every time...

Yes, the standard 335x22 are floaty. Here are the ATE 356x22 (with standard rs6 carriers and callipers) https://www.dropbox.com/s/2yeakh2pmlc3ye4/20140902_006.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/r7ybroelbr55alh/20140902_007.jpg?dl=0 Part number is ATE 24.0122-0273.1, cost around 100 euros each, maybe...

You could get used S6 C7 carriers (IIRC they had 356x22 rears) and matching ATE discs for dirt cheap.

I highly doubt the paddles communicate directly to the CANbus. They probably have their own LIN/LON bus and then a control module translates those commands and sends them to the powertrain canbus. Most probably you need a new module as well, since the MFSW relay talks only on the comfort canbus (whi...

You can buy replacement shells from ebay (cheap) and transfer the blade + immo chip + remote internals to them. If you want a completely new third key you can again buy a complete set from ebay (still very cheap), have a local locksmith cut the blade and then copy the IMMO data from one of the origi...

It could be the Bosch 5.7 ABS pump playing up, it'll start shitting the K-line & CAN-buses and soon you'll lose ABS + all diagnostics. Try removing the ABS pump connector, see if you can then find other modules.

I had a clicking noise once. turned out to be a missing bolt between the upright and the carrier.. Made one last (pretty loud) click once the other remaining bolt snapped and let the caliper go.