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Ranger Rico wrote:I was looking at these,

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_RS4-- ... ES2807004/

Not particularly cheaper once you add in the crappy exchange rate, shipping and possibly the VAT added at customs.

I have those on my RS4 - and I've been happy with the results. I'd buy them again.

Going to order the Dual Mass Flywhhel from Rock Autos in the States. Can anyone who has bought one confirm that the part number is indeed: LUK DMF077? Many thanks. Yes. That should be the right one. thats what I had installed in my RS4 about a year ago - no issues. I did their clutch kit (LUK 02050...

Are you talking about the knuckle (pinch) bolt that holds the upper arms? I've read a number of different approaches. One is a special (expensive) tool from Audi that clamps on and you use a air tool to extract it. the other method I've seen is to heat it up with a torch and spray the hell out of it...

Is breaking the silver hose clip off an answer as they are cheap but you really need some hose pliers to attach a new one. hmm. I should have considered that... FYI: those little silver clamps are made of tough metal... I was surprised how difficult they were to cut. I had to remove two others when...

here is a pic of the connector... its the black squeeze connector behind the silver hose clamp.

Started my carbon cleaning process today - trying to get the manifold off... what a pain. The connectors that this car uses do not like to come apart easily... the air hose on the back of the accordion air intake hose has some kind of connector that you are supposed to squeeze and pull and it comes ...

Got stopped by another Audi driver (A8L) last week - said he followed me home just to listen to my pipes (just piggies here) - turns out he just lives on the next block.

I did this last night. the old fluid was brown and horrid smelling - what a foul smelling liquid. Stunk up the whole garage. Went through 1 ltr getting it to resemble the green fluid. Steering feels better. not a night-and-day difference, but better.

Yes, it requires the clutch to be pressed in to start the car.

I did have luck removing them and installing them again. I guess I didn't have them in the right position when I did it the first time. On the plus side, these seem to be reusable. Thanks for the help!

this is a US car - so, I just have a key to turn to start the car. I'll check the top switch again... and of course I'm trying to check the codes that its throwing with VCDS and my laptop power-supply died...

are these switches a one time install / use? my lower clutch switch was working fine, but I had taken it out because I thought it needed to be changed - when it was the upper switch that I needed to replace... so, i have two lower switches now. neither work as I depress the clutch to start the car -...

so, I was in the same boat - I read a bunch of guys online who had done this. I tried soaking the bolts in PBBlaster, used a wire brush and I even tried heating them with a torch myself - but I was too timid with the heat for fear of ruining something. I snapped a stud and the others wouldn't move a...

and my wife gives me <beep> about having so many cars... My list it tiny compared to some of yours.

Toyota Corolla
Chevy Impala wagon
Saab 900 Turbo
Pontiac Fiero GT
Suzuki Samurai
Ducati Monster (bike)
Toyota 4Runner
VW Jetta
Ducati 748s (bike)
BMW E46 M3

current
VW GTI MK6
Audi B7 RS4

69k on original, but I'm having a weird issue. I've done the 30 in 6th test and there is no slippage - just grunts and pulls forward. no pedal sticking at all- even with spirited driving. clutch starts engaging pretty low on the pedal stroke - my problem is when getting about 3/4 through the clutch ...

A few ideas - how long sine the fuel filter was changed? How about the plugs/coils? if its a specific cyl, you can swap the coil packs around and see if it follows, but the multiple / random sounds more like fuel / filter as a first step. mine was running rough and had the same codes random misfires...