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They are a complete waste of effort on a standard or stage one car to be honest. I have tried a few (foolishly beleiving the hype posted on forums) and found them to given inconsistent performance and on the whole deteriorate the throttle response (presumably by virtue of the increase in the interna...

The fitment of the rear dampers are the same, but the rate is different. I find that the Bilstein sprint S3 dampers are a little soft at the rear causing understeer. I would be tempted to use the TT dampers on the rear next time to try and resolve this...

40k is good life for a set of pads.

Re wear indicator there is a fiddly clip on the strut with wires running into the pads. It turns and unclips, then the pad replacement is as normal.

The light will reset itself when the new pads are installed and the car switched off then on.

I would also change point 5 to Jonnys method, but add that if you press in at the front it levers the clips at the side allowing the rearmost part in the wheelarch to be released first. Do the same on both sides then it will come off (showering you in washer fluid as you have forgotton to unclip / b...

Simon. I had something very similar on OEM discs when they became checked (small cracks radially in the surface of the disc) Fine when it was cold, but as the disc heated up there was a very noticeable vibration and "hum" from the brakes, mainly during use, rather than just after. Shortly afterwards...

Sorry, should have said disc resurfacing then replacement

Surely if uneven pad deposits (causing judder) are a problem, then a rebedding-in process will cure it. Not always. I did a track session, and could not cure the post track judder with rebedding, sanding etc etc. This risk is that the heat generated in the rebedding process can alter the disc compo...

Very pricey for what they are. No performance advantage. The quality is iffy too, kust look inside the pipe, it is rough unfinished metal - not impressive.

However, it is the one stop solution to the TBB problem, although in 50,000 miles of chipped S4 driving, mine only failed once.

UKS4APR1 - Can I suggest that if your new kit comes with the original Axxis pads that you swap them out? i could never get on with them. They were inconsistent, prone to leaving pad deposits on the disc and were extremely wooden. The Hawk HPS pads are a good alternative. Also, I have a set of Hawk B...

johneroberts wrote:We are all entitled to our opinions DavidR

Absolutely

johneroberts wrote: But i personally would give them a couple of weeks to rebed in
Cheers
jr

Interesting...

AFAIK the intake temperature affects the corrected power figure, but not the wheel power figure of torque figure. I'm led to beleive the rolling road measures the torque regardless of external parameters. 50bhp wheel loss seems about average for the runs on my S3. I got 2 runs at the RR you arranged...

I still disagree. From the look of the disc it would appear to have heat checking across the surface. The only definate way to tell is to sand an area to make sure it is not pad deposition, but it looks like thermal stress fractures across the disc face. Most manufacturers will confirm that heat che...

Nothing wrong with them, just need a deglaze and a bit more careful treatment. Cheers jr Huh? Other than they have thousands of cracks penetrating the disc surface. Which tend to get worse the more they are used. That tend to then cause disc failure if left long enough. There is no "deglaze" in the...

Simon, I have tend to be cautious with discs like these. I have had 2 crack pretty catastrophically, one on a road car, the other on a track car... Both had these fine radial cracks, but had been used for some time after they appeared. My friends EVO cracked a disc also, having had these smaller cra...

It's usually 4th gear which is closest to a 1:1 drive ratio on the S3

Certainly on the S3 4th would produce about 85mph at 5000rpm.

On an A3 1.8T 3rd would be equivalent

If I remember, the S4 would do 120+ in 4th....