Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

[ChrisH2017]

Perfect, many thanks, that's one less thing to worry about then!

[2014audis8]

when you did your driver side chain tensioner, did the camshaft jump back like 30 degs? I am currently working on mine and as soon as I popped the gear off the tapered shaft for bank B the camshaft shifted. I also do not see any markings on the camshafts themselves. only on the camshaft caps.
Just wonder how normal this all is.

[allroadadi]

Yeah+ the 30 degree spring back on the cam is normal. I’m assuming that you set TDC before you took the belt off.
The marking on the cams are not easy to see: you have to look at 90 degrees with the notches and a flash light. Otherwise you might not be at TDC, unless you were able to put the crank pin inside, them you should be at TDC…

[allroadadi]

Oh, I forgot. You have to put the cam locking bar back on by tapping the lock washer back on (without the tapered gear) on the shifted cam and spin it back to TDC. Then you should see the notches on the cams.

[2014audis8]

yup, I was able to get the crank locking pin in. (HUGE PAIN), okay so if I just use the locking bar to turn the camshafts back to time I should see the notches on the camshaft?
when reinstall the camshaft I assume you put it at TDC, aligning the marks. then as you tighten down the hold down bolts it will depress the couple of valves that it is currently on? So like it will be under tension?

[allroadadi]

It gets even more complicated: The service manual also states that NO pistons can be at TDC when you remove and reinstall the cams. Basically you remove the locking pin, turn the crank 45 degrees to the left then remove the cams. If you look at the last pic I have marked TDC with green on the crank so that I can re-set TDC after installing the cams back. Nobody here has done that and they were fine. I followed the service procedure and I was fine too. Extra steps that might not be necessary, but I followed them. After you get the cams back in with the notches lined up and correct number of teeth on chains then you get the crank back to TDC. I also put the crank pin back in before getting the timing belt back on just to make sure my marking was correct.

[2014audis8]

okay glad to hear I can do it without moving the crank back 45deg. that locking pin was terrible to get in the first time.
My thought is to make a mark on the camshafts to mark the current location compared to the camshaft holding block. Then removing the camshafts and reinstalling. I assume this should get me back in time. Then rotate around the camshaft to get the locking bar in place and double checking it timed properly. Then I should be able to put the timing belt back on and it should all be timed up correctly.
Does this sound correct?

[Mɐʇʇ]

Apologies that it's quite a few years ago now, so I don't remember it all! And so I'd also say, this is what I think I did - but if it's not working for you, don't force it!

I defo didn't remove the crank pin. BUT, what I did do was make sure I was super careful on the install.
Basically, rest the cams in their cradles in the head, with the cams the correct number of segments apart and approximately in the correct location.
I then used the timing bar, attached to the other cam for location, and on this cam to locate it's timing exactly & hold it steady, so that it was already correctly timed before I started torquing down. In this way, the cams were never out of time at all as I torqued it up and the valves opened - therefore no risk of bending valves. If you had both banks of cams out simultaneously that might make it a bit harder.

It was a bit stressful assembling the cams, chains & adjusters on the bench and lowering it all into the engine without slipping a tooth or dropping something - 2 pairs of hands would have been useful.

Also be super cautious about the steps & sequence you torque the cams back up in - you don't want to bend a camshaft!

Never had too much of an issue getting the crank pin in, although did require a little bit of backwards and forwards to get it to locate nicely.

(I do also remember it looking a bit tricky to get new cam cap bolts, but they didn't look anything special - M6 x 40 IIRC. However just checked and the part is available and loads of people do list stock. So while they're handsomely priced, I'd not mess around and just replace them all)

[allroadadi]

okay glad to hear I can do it without moving the crank back 45deg. that locking pin was terrible to get in the first time.
My thought is to make a mark on the camshafts to mark the current location compared to the camshaft holding block. Then removing the camshafts and reinstalling. I assume this should get me back in time. Then rotate around the camshaft to get the locking bar in place and double checking it timed properly. Then I should be able to put the timing belt back on and it should all be timed up correctly.
Does this sound correct?

Both camshafts already have marks. It’s a notch. If you can’t see it, you are not at TDC. Assuming the exhaust camshaft moved and you never moved it back, you should still see the intake camshaft notch. Just place your head directly above the camshaft sprocket where the little arrow on the cam cap sits. Zoom in on my first picture. You should see a little dark square. It’s 3D, but the picture makes it 2D…
Those notches are your point of reference when you install the camshafts back in, you turn the engine by hand a few times and they should still line up …counting links on chain and all that.
Making your own marks is a bad idea unless you are not at TDC, at which point it might be your save…

[Mɐʇʇ]

This!

[2014audis8]

How loose was the chain when you got it on? Mine seems pretty loose right now. I’m assuming the new tensioner just needs to be primed with oil to tension the chain correct? Is there a good way to prime it? Also does this look close enough?

[allroadadi]

How loose was the chain when you got it on? Mine seems pretty loose right now. I’m assuming the new tensioner just needs to be primed with oil to tension the chain correct? Is there a good way to prime it? Also does this look close enough?

Yes, it’s normal for the chain to be a bit loose. As long as you have the right distance /number of rollers on chain between cams…The best way to prime the tensioner is to pre-fill it with new engine oil (if the tensioner is new or the old one has been taken apart), but the 2nd best is to turn the engine by hand a couple of revolutions (clock wise) once the timing belt is on and timing is good. After turning the engine by hand, if all 4 cams line up their notches with the cap arrows and the cam bar fits you should be good to go.
It could be close enough (the picture) because it’s hard to tell since a slight angle on your camera makes it look off but it could be perfect. The best way to tell is to look from different angles and lastly directly from above.

[2014audis8]

so the arrow is technically inside the notch, but just barely.
My other concern is once I get it all back together do I just start the car up normally? Or I have seen some people say to pull the fuel pump fuse and starting the car with a key a few times to get the oil pumps all working and primed before actually firing the car up with fuel.

[allroadadi]

Turn the engine by hand 2 revolutions (20someting socket on the crank bolt clockwise with a long-ish ratchet), then pull the fuse if all notches/arrows/cam bar lines up, crank it a few times then start the engine. I skipped the fuse part. Instead I just turned the engine by hand a few times and started (because I disconnected the fuel lines the engine spun a few times before starting anyway because fuel hasn’t gotten to the injectors for a couple of seconds or so since the pump has to build pressure)
Edit: I also took off the fuel rail and injectors (for cleaning and new gaskets) so my fuel rail was completely empty of fuel.