Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

[Mɐʇʇ]

Not really, IIRC the cams have to come out and if you're that far disassembled, resetting the belt properly is not much additional effort.

[ChrisH2017]

I had another look at the chain and adjuster yesterday, I am now wondering if it's possible that the chain jumped a tooth when the top pad failed. The exhaust cam mark is aligned at tdc, the inlet cam is a few (maybe 5) degrees retarded, plus if I count the rollers from the one aligned with the exhaust cam mark the 15th roller is sitting in a gap between teeth on the inlet cam sprocket that won't align with the mark on the bearing housing. Eg even if I rotate the inlet cam to fully take in the slack in the top of the chain the inlet cam is still retarded compared to the exhaust.

[ChrisH2017]

Photos show position of exhaust cam (aligned with mark), and inlet cam showing its retarded. If I count 15 rollers with number 1 one aligned with the mark on the exhaust cam the 15th is the one I am pointing at, which is not far off the inlet cam mark on the cam carrier, but the mark on the cam sprocket is about 1 tooth out (cam is retarded) does that make sense?

[Mɐʇʇ]

Have a look at my thread from when I replaced my adjuster, I think there were some timing mark pics in it.

[ChrisH2017]

Found them, many thanks, mine doesn't align like yours did, even if I take up the slack in the top part of the chain the inlet is still looking retarded. Plus the roller count doesn't look right.....

[allroadadi]

It seems that the top tensioner pad broke because of the slack in the chain (oil not getting inside the tensioner, obstruction and hence not expanding). If that is true then the extra slack caused by the missing pad explains why the cam skipped a tooth.

On the other hand, I don’t think you can remove and replace the tensioner without taking the cams off. On the 2.8l engine is possible if I remember correctly as there is more room. Some dude zip tied the cam belt to the exhaust sprocket so it doesn’t move and removed the intake cam, loosened the exhaust cam enough to get clearance, but it’s all shady stuff.

Technically you could remove the intake camshaft with the timing belt on for extra clearance (to ease with the tensioner removal), but I don’t know what it does to the valves when you only remove one camshaft as the service only talks about removing both at the same time. Obviously you have to follow the order suggested in the manual (when you remove the cam caps) for that intake cam only even though due to the bridge cam caps you would remove 2 caps for the exhaust cam too (the end by the sensor, and one close to the middle, number 3 I think).

[ChrisH2017]

Sorted

[Shoppinit]

How do you like that scanner?

[ChrisH2017]

So far it's been very good, I have a more simple generic OBD Launch one as well, but the Foxwell seems to cover a fair bit of what vag.com does without the need for a laptop. Also works on my D3 S8.....

[ChrisH2017]

So, car is now all back together, and mot'd. Really great to be driving it again! Had abs/esc warning light issues to also fix, turned out to be a combination of failed abs module (ecu testing repaired it, did a great job), and an intermittent brake pedal switch fault, and a dodgy connection on the brake pressure sensor connector. All now sorted. So, next thought is when the cam chain pad broke up I managed to extract a few bits from around the chain area in the head, but I suspect some bits would have dropped down, presumably ending up in the sump. My plan is to pull the sump off at next oil change and clean it out. Is there a big risk of not doing it immediately? I can't see any risk of material getting to the oil pump as there is a strainer on the bottom of the oil pickup pipe? I guess there is a risk of enough bits blocking the strainer? I was also thinking that the oil pickup will be close to the bottom of the sump, so bigger bits (that could block the strainer) shouldn't be able to get close to it. Thoughts welcome, especially from those who have taken the sump off and know what it all looks like in there!

[TOPMAN]

The pump mounts to the block with 3 bolts and as you mentioned includes the pickup and sieve. Looking at the design of the pick up, I would assume it gets quite close to the floor of the oil pan. However, there is an upper sump (or whatever it’s called) mounted to the block that is approximately 2.5” thick. I just can’t remember how close the pickup is and if you can actually get to it easily, or does the upper sump need to be removed also?




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[Mɐʇʇ]

Sump’s easy to remove and doesn’t need a gasket. JFDI.

[ChrisH2017]

Many thanks both, really useful. I will def pull the sump as soon as I get a weather window suitable for working outdoors! Looking at the photo that looks like spacers on the pump inlet to hold it off the sump? Logically it should be at the lowest, or nearly lowest part of the sump so should be accessible once the lower sump comes off...?

[TOPMAN]

Many thanks both, really useful. I will def pull the sump as soon as I get a weather window suitable for working outdoors! Looking at the photo that looks like spacers on the pump inlet to hold it off the sump? Logically it should be at the lowest, or nearly lowest part of the sump so should be accessible once the lower sump comes off...?

I agree, just can’t think how it looks as my engine was built on a stand and the sump hasn’t been off since


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[Felix2566]

The black part in the pump photo above is a hard rubber. It just about touches the bottom of the sump. I very much doubt the parts of the tensionor are enough to block the inlet