Suspension recommendations.

[rickster147]

I can't comment on the drc as I've never driven one with OEM set up but I have Bilstein b16s they can be harsh but handle really well but the damping is adjustable for a more comfortable ride

[RS04YOB]

KW v3 are a popular choice too, and I find the ride comfortable

More expensive

Don't think there is much in it I thought KW and Bilsteins where the same price when I got mine

[pule333]

B16? Maybe
B14 vs v3 is like 300-400 difrence

[rwilsonrs4]

i have B16 PSS9 on mne , even at softest setting its stiffer than DRC but i got used to it real quick and the difference in handling is night and day when fun being had , you will have to fit stiffer roll bars front and rear as the OEM ones are too soft as the DRC does a lot of the roll resis tance , i already had H&R bars on mine with the DRC as i found it wallowy in corners , but with the B16 on setting 1 its damn scary , sometimes i like ooyah im too fast in this corner and it goes round no bother

[chris_m]

That's a good heads up about the roll bars mate Cheers.

[weekenny]

Fitted B14's and H&R roll bars this weekend after my DRC blew a hose. B14's can be had for around £800 the bars £350 so all in a few hundred less than the V3's alone. Haven't driven it much since but feels on par with the SS+ I replaced.

[chris_m]

Is it a nice DIY job or a pain in the arse? I fancy giving it a go if it's not an absolute nightmare. I gutted my pre cats and wouldn't be a job I'd ever do again. The access is an absolute nightmare for one...
If it's not so bad fitting the coilovers, are there any tools that are a must other than what I'd find in my 200pc halfords set? Any pointers would be appreciated.

Cheers.

[weekenny]

You need spring compressors, large c-clamp, torque wrench and a few socket and spanner sizes not in my Halfords set, off the top of my head 16mm spanner and 21mm spanner and socket were the ones I didn't have. On jacks and stands it'd be a real pain. One pointer I got was do the front first it's harder but I had more headaches with the rear, silly things though like dropping bolts into the arch liners. The front pinch bolt and its two ball joints can be a pain. You can do the rear roll bar without removing the exhaust just unbolt the back box mounts and remove the DRC valves and their cover plastic and you'll have the room to wriggle it out takes a little time then the new one will fly in as you'll know how.

I did it in around 6 hrs on my own, extra hands would have helped some parts. I've a ramp and compressor setup I've no idea how long it would have taken without. Some parts like removing and refitting the ball joints are easy but take a knack that'll take you a while to get then the other side will be a breeze.

Read the stasis guides those are good for the tools you'll need and torque values.

[chris_m]

Hmm, I'm not so sure about the job now then. It would be axle stands and I don't have compressors and clamps at hand. It'd probably end up taking twice the time it took you so would end up taking a month because I don't have a load of spare time these days.

[weekenny]

The clamp is to press in the ball joints and the spring compressor is a must for safely removing the top mounts. I'm the same I have almost no free time so I did it a couple of hours a day for a few days. Some hire places do the compressors or have a local garage remove the top mounts for you for a few quid.

Didn't mean to put you off mate, it's quite rewarding to do it yourself.

[Andy_D]

Looks like I am in the same boat chris_m. Found out last week my o/s rear had a leak, today gave in altogether. Knocking/rattling and a small pool of oil near my rear wheel when i parked up Evidence of some oil on front n/s shock too.

After reading your thread I may well opt for B14's

[irn_bru_ce]

B16? Maybe
B14 vs v3 is like 300-400 difrence

Yeah, I got a set of KWv3 for a very good price from AwesomeGTi, ordered a rear ARB and drop links along with it, I think most retailers would cut you a deal if your buying more than 1 item, it's free to ask

[marc1]

Fitted B14's and H&R roll bars this weekend after my DRC blew a hose. B14's can be had for around £800 the bars £350 so all in a few hundred less than the V3's alone. Haven't driven it much since but feels on par with the SS+ I replaced.

On par? Would be good to hear you thoughts after a few good hoons then. I've always added coulover and ARB's and they've made the handling great. With both my B7's I didn't bother as thought they handled really well out of the box without being really stiff for commuting, etc.

I loved the SS+ on the Avant and was a perfect. I quite fancy a cab, but they really are wollowy. I'd hope coilovers and arb's would make it significantly stiffer than SS+.

[pule333]

Fitted B14's and H&R roll bars this weekend after my DRC blew a hose. B14's can be had for around £800 the bars £350 so all in a few hundred less than the V3's alone. Haven't driven it much since but feels on par with the SS+ I replaced.

On par? Would be good to hear you thoughts after a few good hoons then. I've always added coulover and ARB's and they've made the handling great. With both my B7's I didn't bother as thought they handled really well out of the box without being really stiff for commuting, etc.

I loved the SS+ on the Avant and was a perfect. I quite fancy a cab, but they really are wollowy. I'd hope coilovers and arb's would make it significantly stiffer than SS+.

B14 is briliant set up! i have done 6 trackdays on it last year and was able to gain on race preped clios a like in corners and its my dialy and very comfortable.!

[black cat]

OK ,So you do away with DRC and fit coil overs ,What about the Insurance ,as in mods ?

John