Changing discs and pads
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Changing discs and pads
I've just changed the front discs and pads at a mate's garage (the rear ones were changed a few weeks ago) and I thought a couple of additional points are worth mentioning to supplement Sonny's very helpful sticky on the subject. Sorry I didn't take any pics.
There is a stainless steel plate at each end of the caliper on the inside that I think are to help locate the pads. Unlike Sonny's, mine had a lot corrosion behind them that was preventing easy insertion of the new pads without hammering them in. Each plate is held in place by 3 small grub screws. We didn't want to risk shearing them when trying to remove the plate to clean behind. So, gently levering the plate away from the caliper with a small screwdriver, we used a junior hacksaw blade to scrape away the crap with a sawing motion. It took quite a while and it was amazing how much came out. We used WD40 too. The new pads then went in easily.
Also, we had a hell of a job getting some of the pad retaining pins out of the calipers. On a couple, trying to knock them out with a drift simply burred the end over and risked damage to the caliper had we managed to knock them through. Twisting the pins on their axis with really tight Mole grips worked, but one sheared in two and though we managed to drift the two parts out it took a lot of care and plentiful use of a low temperature spray made by Wurth that is supposed to contract metal and break corrosion bonds. So it's worth having a spare set of new caliper pins on hand before you start in case you have similar problems (£19/side from the stealer). We used an aluminium-based grease on the new pins. Hope these little hints might help if you're having a go yourself.
There is a stainless steel plate at each end of the caliper on the inside that I think are to help locate the pads. Unlike Sonny's, mine had a lot corrosion behind them that was preventing easy insertion of the new pads without hammering them in. Each plate is held in place by 3 small grub screws. We didn't want to risk shearing them when trying to remove the plate to clean behind. So, gently levering the plate away from the caliper with a small screwdriver, we used a junior hacksaw blade to scrape away the crap with a sawing motion. It took quite a while and it was amazing how much came out. We used WD40 too. The new pads then went in easily.
Also, we had a hell of a job getting some of the pad retaining pins out of the calipers. On a couple, trying to knock them out with a drift simply burred the end over and risked damage to the caliper had we managed to knock them through. Twisting the pins on their axis with really tight Mole grips worked, but one sheared in two and though we managed to drift the two parts out it took a lot of care and plentiful use of a low temperature spray made by Wurth that is supposed to contract metal and break corrosion bonds. So it's worth having a spare set of new caliper pins on hand before you start in case you have similar problems (£19/side from the stealer). We used an aluminium-based grease on the new pins. Hope these little hints might help if you're having a go yourself.
Last edited by Audi Pardner on Fri Sep 27, 2013 8:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Misano Red B7 RS4 Avant. 20" Rotors. KW adjustable spring kit. 8 & 10mm H&R spacers. MRC Stage 2 remap. Pre-cat delete & x-pipe.
Re: Changing discs and pads
Can vouch for that mate, had to do the same thingAudi Pardner wrote: There is a stainless steel plate at each end of the caliper on the inside that I think are to help locate the pads. Unlike Sonny's, mine had a lot corrosion behind them that was preventing easy insertion of the new pads without hammering them in. Each plate is held in place by 3 small grub screws. We didn't want to risk shearing them when trying to remove the plate to clean behind. So, gently levering the plate away from the caliper with a small screwdriver, we used a junior hacksaw blade to scrape away the crap with a sawing motion. It took quire a while and it was amazing how much came out. We used WD40 too. The new pads then went in easily.


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Re: Changing discs and pads
I'm just about to change mine. Does anyone have the part numbers for these caliper pins?
Thanks
Thanks
- Ranger Rico
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Re: Changing discs and pads
I just changed mine out too, another bit of advice is to get a spare disc retainer bolt, one of mine was seized and i had to bash it out, destroying it, audi gave me mine for free as its only worth pennies. Might save u a bus ride if u have a spare ready 

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Re: Changing discs and pads
Man!! I had an absolute nightmare getting my pad retaining pins out, first one came out easily then the rest just wouldn't budge, tried everything apart from heat.
Ended up cutting the middle sections of the pins off so that I could remove the pads, nipped the brake lines, removed the calipers and took then down to my local garage to get some heat on them!! Finally they came out, back up the road, put them back on then bleed the system!!!!
Totalpainintheass.com!!!!!

Ended up cutting the middle sections of the pins off so that I could remove the pads, nipped the brake lines, removed the calipers and took then down to my local garage to get some heat on them!! Finally they came out, back up the road, put them back on then bleed the system!!!!
Totalpainintheass.com!!!!!

B7 RS4 Avant 2007 Daytona Grey
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447 PS
If in doubt.. Power out!!
Black Optics / Ti Pack
SS Suspension +
Sunroof
H&R Hubcentric Spacers
Milltek Res / Valved Cat Back
Stage 2 MRC Map
Cold Air Feed
Carbon Clean
Pre-Cats Gutted
447 PS
If in doubt.. Power out!!
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Re: Changing discs and pads
U3D0 698269Chrispgy_RS4 wrote:I'm just about to change mine. Does anyone have the part numbers for these caliper pins?
Thanks
Misano Red B7 RS4 Avant. 20" Rotors. KW adjustable spring kit. 8 & 10mm H&R spacers. MRC Stage 2 remap. Pre-cat delete & x-pipe.
Re: Changing discs and pads
I found a much easier way to change the front pads;
drive to Banbury, let MRC deal with seized bits and fit new pads then drive home
nothing broke, no hassle at all
drive to Banbury, let MRC deal with seized bits and fit new pads then drive home
nothing broke, no hassle at all

Currently: C63 AMG 507 Edition Coupe - Polar white
Previously : 997 Turbo - Meteor Grey, Audi B7 RS4 Saloon - Phantom Black, Audi RS3 - Daytona Grey, Abarth 500, MK2 Ford Focus RS, LS3 VXR8, Monaro VXR, MK4 Golf R32, Leon Cupra R, MK1 Cliosport 172, MK3 Golf VR6 Highline
Previously : 997 Turbo - Meteor Grey, Audi B7 RS4 Saloon - Phantom Black, Audi RS3 - Daytona Grey, Abarth 500, MK2 Ford Focus RS, LS3 VXR8, Monaro VXR, MK4 Golf R32, Leon Cupra R, MK1 Cliosport 172, MK3 Golf VR6 Highline
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Re: Changing discs and pads
Or just leave the pins in there's no need to remove them to change the front pads.
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Re: Changing discs and pads
All discs, both front callipers & brake pads were shot on my car. So I had both front brake callipers re-manufactured as one piston was completely seized and I couldn't get any of the pins out. Once back I fitted them along with new AP Racing discs, ATE Blue properly bled, new rear discs too and OEM pads all round. The thing stops like hitting a brick wall now. Expensive, but money well spent.
RS4 B7, Mugello Blue, K&W V3 & HR ARBs, set up by Centre Gravity, Milltek Valved Non Res & cat bypass pipes, BMC air filter, braided hoses, DOT 5.1, Terraclean, MRC Full Carbon Clean, MRC remap 448PS 477NM, 20" S7 alloys with 4mm spacers & Hawke spigots 66.6 > 57.1, AP Racing front discs. Sold Sept 2019. Now rocking an F80 M3
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Re: Changing discs and pads
Many thanksAudi Pardner wrote:U3D0 698269Chrispgy_RS4 wrote:I'm just about to change mine. Does anyone have the part numbers for these caliper pins?
Thanks

Re: Changing discs and pads
Just call Audi. I seem to remember they come as part of a kit that includes the retention springs.
RS4 B7, Mugello Blue, K&W V3 & HR ARBs, set up by Centre Gravity, Milltek Valved Non Res & cat bypass pipes, BMC air filter, braided hoses, DOT 5.1, Terraclean, MRC Full Carbon Clean, MRC remap 448PS 477NM, 20" S7 alloys with 4mm spacers & Hawke spigots 66.6 > 57.1, AP Racing front discs. Sold Sept 2019. Now rocking an F80 M3
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