The RS6 project including 5HP24 A transmission rebuild SOLD

[RS2]

Thanks for the info.

Re oil level height, maybe I heard wrong. I'll double check on this.

The level is certainly below the cracked section of the filter or I wouldn't have had the problem.

MG

[mavada]

...maybe worth to have a look at...

[mavada]

[mavada]

[mavada]

[Mr Footlong]

Mav, you dig out all these files yet when I ask if anyone has anything to add to the tech archive I get fecking tumbleweed? Will go through that lot and see what I can stick in there.

[Shoppinit]

That's what I was thinking!

[RS2]

Thanks. Great info.

MG

[Nobby]

Awesome posts RS2, its gives a great insight into the engines and gearboxes of these cars.

RE the SAI valves/air pumps: The reason why they fill with water is down to condensation
- The valve between the pump and the manifold(s) usually clogs and sticks open. This isn't so bad when the pump is running but when it shuts off some of the exhaust gasses go back up the tube to the pump and coke it up, then fill with condensation. I'm surprised its not more of a problem as some of the pipes are plastic so pose a fire risk. If you want the system to keep working perfectly then check the valves every now and then.

BTW: I've been to Monkfish a couple of times myself. Very helpful service (and been tempted to get a Monaro too!). Any discount on a 4-wheel alignment

[RS2]

Awesome posts RS2, its gives a great insight into the engines and gearboxes of these cars.

RE the SAI valves/air pumps: The reason why they fill with water is down to condensation
- The valve between the pump and the manifold(s) usually clogs and sticks open. This isn't so bad when the pump is running but when it shuts off some of the exhaust gasses go back up the tube to the pump and coke it up, then fill with condensation. I'm surprised its not more of a problem as some of the pipes are plastic so pose a fire risk. If you want the system to keep working perfectly then check the valves every now and then.

BTW: I've been to Monkfish a couple of times myself. Very helpful service (and been tempted to get a Monaro too!). Any discount on a 4-wheel alignment

Thanks for the info. I have grabbed another pump and will make sure that the valves will be working. Hopefully this will get the system working again and I can get rid of the fault codes

The vacuum pipes had been replaced maybe 18 months ago so I'd imagine that this was initially caused by split vacuum hoses.

As for a discount? Haha... no but you knew that already Not my choice.

MG

[mavada]

by Mr Footlong » 31 May, 2013 - 07:42

Mav, you dig out all these files yet when I ask if anyone has anything to add to the tech archive I get fecking tumbleweed? Will go through that lot and see what I can stick in there.

I forgot i had them, came across these when looking into my old laptop....

[Mr Footlong]

Dumped them in .

[RS2]

Right,

I took today to finish the rebuild of the transmission.

I started off taking lots of photos and then as things got more busy and I started running out of room and time, they stopped. Sorry.

So I got a delivery of seals etc from CT on Friday (Thanks Mark!) with just about everything I needed. I forgot to ask for the 2 small seals that sit in front of the lower bolts which hold the oil pump in

Anywhoo...



First the filter.

After the confusion over depths of sump pans, filter tube length and oil level, I decided to measure old and new and the depth of the sump to see just how much clearance I had with the old filter.

Oh, I found the date on the old filter and it confirms that this is the original filter from 2010.



The original filter tube length...



The new filter tube length...



I measured from the sump mating surface to the deepest point = 90mm.

With the new filter bolted in place, the distance from the bottom of the tube to the sump mating surface = 90mm !!

As the photos confirm, I needed to trim 5mm from the tube.



This is a fairly scary thing to find out. I could imagine that many people could end up ordering a standard 5HP24 filter and not think to check the length of this and it's bye bye transmission!

I scored around the tube and removed the 5mm section.



Stuff for the bin!



So that's the filter done.

Onto the clutch discs and seals surrounding the area that had suffered in my transmission.

We've seen this before but this is our starting point.







Slowly removing parts and nothing what went where and setting them out on the bench on clean paper etc.



The large circlips that hold each set in are easily removed.



Mark felt that as the clutch discs in this centre clutch pack have suffered, the o-rings surrounding the piston should be changed also.



All of the clutch friction and metal discs laid out.



New and Old. You can see that the worst friction disc has worn through to the metal on the edge.



The piston and it's O-rings.





Everything is cleaned and refitted in order.

The O-ring which causes the most issues. This is the one that usually fails when the bearing between Clutch pack A and next setup fails and looses drive in 1-4th gears.



Having a couple of diagrams from downloaded PDFs makes it a lot easier to work out which part goes where!



I'm afraid that this is where I started running out of room for parts and time was short so the photos had to stop.

I replaced the seals for the piston in the outer drum, removed the valve body and pulled it apart and cleaned through and blew through everything I could.

Only dirty oil was found but atleast it's done.

The trans is back together and once I have the seals to complete it, I'll start bolting it back up to the engine and installing everything back into the car.

I'll post up how things go once it's all bolted back in and get to drive it (hopefully) properly for the first time!

MG

[mik15]

that's some impressive job you're doing there! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Regarding the oil filter, did you order an original one using the p/n from ETKA or is it a standard one for a regular 5hp24? i have changed twice so far the oil and filter on my gearbox and always have ordered the original filter for the RS6, so i didn't bother to measure them but now you've made me having doubts....did you check before taking the gearbox apart what was the oil temperature it was running at? If it was slipping the temperature should've been higher and you should see some improvement after the rebuild. I know i did on mine after i changed the Torque Converter, about 10C lower when cruising on the highway....

[bam_bam]

If it was slipping the temperature should've been higher and you should see some improvement after the rebuild. I know i did on mine after i changed the Torque Converter, about 10C lower when cruising on the highway....

If your TC wasn't closing you'd running a higher temp when cruising due to viscous coupling as opposed to mechanical transfer of a locked TC. You'd have better MPG too, in theory.

Great write up Mr.2.