Under floor heating for the RS4

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scaghead
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Post by scaghead » Wed Dec 30, 2009 11:16 pm

pete buy a pair of thermal socks from outdoor world job done..
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Post by reevesroadster » Wed Dec 30, 2009 11:22 pm

A dehumidifier would need to be used with caution, or it will dry out your garage too far and potentially cause warped door frames etc.

Additionally, any "modern" garage has to be ventilated for H+S reasons, so this would need to be considered aswell if you are going to heat the garage air.
Im guessing you are not looking to store the car up, but a storage canopy might be an easier solution, see here: http://www.airflow-uk.com/index.php?vie ... airchamber , and then youd only be heating a smaller space too.
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Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Under floor heating for the RS4

Post by johninspain » Wed Dec 30, 2009 11:23 pm

stumpy67 wrote:[quote="johninspain"... he is proble the uks leading expert in UFH
There's alot of people that would disagree with you there!

There have been MANY companies specialising in only UFH for many many years, who would also possibly lay claim to that title![/quote]

Probly are ! But haveing had one of the uks largest companies employing 2500 people in this industry i have come across most of them, i can tell you right now most of them go to him when they a stuck

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Post by Outtlaw » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:13 am

Nice one scaghead :lol:
Right, its a Double Garage seperate from the house but joined to the house by a door from utility room if you know what i mean!
Wanted to convert the loft with boarding, two dorma windows over the garage doors and insulate the roof and a staircase,
UFH and white floor tiles to match the kitchen so it flowed through and no <beep> in there apart from the cars.
The wife on the other hand thinks ive lost the plot. Peter

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Post by johninspain » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:18 am

go with the shott electric system, can be used in the floor tile adheseve, check the site !
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stumpyrs4
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Post by stumpyrs4 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:24 am

reevesroadster wrote:A dehumidifier would need to be used with caution, or it will dry out your garage too far and potentially cause warped door frames etc.

Additionally, any "modern" garage has to be ventilated for H+S reasons, .
Garages dont need to be ventilated. Building Regs don't require it. Integral or part integral garages requires fire separation i.e. a fire door, and rated plasterboard to the ceiling, but no particular ventilation requirements.
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stumpyrs4
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Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Under floor heating for the

Post by stumpyrs4 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:36 am

Outtlaw wrote:Nice one scaghead :lol:
Right, its a Double Garage seperate from the house but joined to the house by a door from utility room if you know what i mean!
Wanted to convert the loft with boarding, two dorma windows over the garage doors and insulate the roof and a staircase,
UFH and white floor tiles to match the kitchen so it flowed through and no <beep> in there apart from the cars.
The wife on the other hand thinks ive lost the plot. Peter
Right, so you have an 'external door' which is likely to have a 60 minute fire rating (which adjoins your house).

The roof of the garage as it is separate from the house is therefore probably not insulated. It doesn't need to be for Building Regs, as it's not a 'habitable space'.

Get the garage roof insulated first off. Use something like a Kingspan board (2.4m x 1.2m x 0.1m thick). Use 2x layers, so it'll be 200mm thick which will possibly be the depth of the garage roof truss. Cut the boards so they fit between the garage roof trusses (400mm centres?). Fix a plywood sheet (2.4m x 1.2m x 10 or 12mm thick) to the underside of the trusses so the insulation is all covered and secure. Whoever fits your Velux's can sort all this for you. You could then add plasterboard sheets to the underside of this, which'll give a better finish and also a lighter (white) appearance so not so gloomy and will help with light relection in the garage (less lighting needed). Paint your internal garage walls white (blockwork or brickwork?) as this will also make a surpring difference to how the room 'feels'.

That should help keep in any heat you might generate in there. You'll need to check your garage door, as this will now be the weak point, and heat will get out through the sides and bottom of the door. Draught excluder will be your simplest bet. Not a great fix but will help.

If your floor is insulated (unlikely as it's a separate garage and again Building Regs don't require it to be) I'd use an electric UFH system and place it within the adhesive for the tiles. Be careful what tiles you choose as they might crack under the car's weight.

PM me if you want any more info...

:D
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sonny
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Post by sonny » Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:29 am

Good post, I had my garage ceiling re-insulated recently. but my living room is above my garage and I was getting a draft through the floor boards, but there was a massive difference when I did re-insulate. I also added uprated draft excluder to my garage door.
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Post by stumpyrs4 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:14 pm

It is surprising what good insulation can do.

When I built my house (2nd/current one), I over-insulated to keep heating costs down. The house has appeared in the national press and Grand Designs Magazine. I have a 100mm Kingspan board throughout the external wall cavities (a bit pricey that!), 400mm in the loft, and 150mm on the ground floor. There's also insulation between the 1st floor partitions (mainly sound insulation for Building Regs) and the 1st floor itself.

The ground floor is totally water UFH. Very toasty.

High specs gas boiler, but nothing flash.

High specs kitchen appliances (all min A rated), which keeps energy usage down.

The weak/bad point is the amount of spotlights everywhere without LE lamps. Need to get some decent lamps as replacements.

Anything sustainability/house related please ask as I have researched pretty much everything out there in the market. Whether it be PV cells, Solar water heating, ground source heat pumps, wind turbines, rainwater harvesting and even composting toilets, ;)

:)
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sonny
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Post by sonny » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:30 pm

stumpy67 wrote:It is surprising what good insulation can do.

When I built my house (2nd/current one), I over-insulated to keep heating costs down. The house has appeared in the national press and Grand Designs Magazine. I have a 100mm Kingspan board throughout the external wall cavities (a bit pricey that!), 400mm in the loft, and 150mm on the ground floor. There's also insulation between the 1st floor partitions (mainly sound insulation for Building Regs) and the 1st floor itself.

The ground floor is totally water UFH. Very toasty.

High specs gas boiler, but nothing flash.

High specs kitchen appliances (all min A rated), which keeps energy usage down.

The weak/bad point is the amount of spotlights everywhere without LE lamps. Need to get some decent lamps as replacements.

Anything sustainability/house related please ask as I have researched pretty much everything out there in the market. Whether it be PV cells, Solar water heating, ground source heat pumps, wind turbines, rainwater harvesting and even composting toilets, ;)

:)
Nice one may have to pick your brains then, where in Kent are you?
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Post by bingboybri » Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:30 pm

if you are insulating the pitched part of your garage roof with kingspan and planing on sheeting it with plasterboard you will need to ventilate the space between the insulation and the roof covering by fitting roof vents ether in the soffit or the pre made tiled ones i also would not fit 200 mm to the pitched part of the roof as you will find 100mm is more than enough and im sure this is the norm for regs when converting any attic space and if you fitted two layers there would be no air space for ventilated air to circulate and also fit a vapor barrier between the plasterboard and the timber members to stop condensation formed from discoloring and damaging the plasterboard........ only my 2p worth.. im sure i will have miss quoted and some one will be along to correct me sooner or later... lol :D

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stumpyrs4
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Post by stumpyrs4 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:23 pm

I live in Whitstable, Nr Canterbury and Faversham ?
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Post by stumpyrs4 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:26 pm

bingboybri wrote:if you are insulating the pitched part of your garage roof with kingspan and planing on sheeting it with plasterboard you will need to ventilate the space between the insulation and the roof covering by fitting roof vents ether in the soffit or the pre made tiled ones i also would not fit 200 mm to the pitched part of the roof as you will find 100mm is more than enough and im sure this is the norm for regs when converting any attic space and if you fitted two layers there would be no air space for ventilated air to circulate and also fit a vapor barrier between the plasterboard and the timber members to stop condensation formed from discoloring and damaging the plasterboard........ only my 2p worth.. im sure i will have miss quoted and some one will be along to correct me sooner or later... lol :D

No all good points - didn't mention the ventilation of the roof area.

Good one.
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Post by johninspain » Thu Dec 31, 2009 5:06 pm

I feel i have to jump in again,

If insulating the roof, dont use board, use kingsapn Tri Isa Super 90, it is thin, flexable and offers the best U value.

As stated befor i used to have possibly the biggest insulation company in the uk, home insulation services, if you need any let me know and ill get it you at well under trade price, that goes for anything you need !

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Outtlaw
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Post by Outtlaw » Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:57 pm

THANKS ALOT, sorry dont post on this too often but busy with work and kids and only manage to get on at night for a few hours,
but I do and have read all of your posts and feel this is helping me to end up with the perfect garage.
I know a little about Kingspan and this is what i was planning on useing in the loft and on the back of the garage doors to help insulate them, dont kmow enough about laying the UFH and dont have the time to do it myself so might get someone in.
thanks again this is really helping. Peter

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