No Turbos
No Turbos
Started the car as usual this morning ready for trip to work. First thing I noticed once I got to the motorway is that the turbos didnt kick in. It accelerated fine but just no kick in the back!!! No warning light on the dash! Pulled off at next exit. Turned off, waited for a short while, started again. No warning lights. Same problem! Havent got VAGCOM with me so cant check fault codes til I get home. Any ideas?? Otherwise seems fine, just like a 4.2 V8 non-turbo would!
RE: No Turbos
P.S. The only fault which I know has occured before is the left engine mount fault. Could this be preventing the turbos operating and thus reducing the available power as a protection mechanism??? Are they easy/reasonable cost to replace? The nearest Audi 'specialist' to me is an Audi dealer. If its just a few hundred then I'll get it done. Otherwise was going to wait til the service is due and travel to MRC/Unit20.
RE: No Turbos
Engine mount will definitely cut your turbos. They're are pretty easy to replace or alternatively there's a connecter you can use to fool the ECU into thinking the engine mount is ok (which is probably is, mechanically).
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Yes, they are hydraulic units and are connected to the ECU. I'm not sure if the ECU controls them in someway, or just measures the compression / extension. I did come across some information about them being active, but that seemed unlikely to me.
To answer your question, the engine mount is monitored to control engine vibration. If the mount breaks, the engine would move too far in the engine compartment potentially causing damage to parts around it (downpipes for example). Therefore the ECU cuts the turbos so that the engine provides less torque and experiences less counter-torque.
To answer your question, the engine mount is monitored to control engine vibration. If the mount breaks, the engine would move too far in the engine compartment potentially causing damage to parts around it (downpipes for example). Therefore the ECU cuts the turbos so that the engine provides less torque and experiences less counter-torque.
Hehe. Good question. For the engine mount error, I don't know whether the ECU just cuts the turbos or whether it goes into limp home mode in which case the economy would be terrible.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Yeah, if you have an issue with your engine mount then that would defo cause a lack of boost. Im not sure that it would completely disengage the blowers though. When my mount went, i lost about 20-30% of the peak boost. The turbos were still running, but not to max potential. I'd find someone with vagcom asap as you may be doing untold damage that could potentialy be solved by a simple sensor replacement. Good luck.
Now Sold!
'03 Daytona Grey RS6 Avant.
Bilstein PSS9's - bloody amazing.
275 Vreds.
MRC custom map with TCU.
Miltek Resonated.
Hi Flow filters.
Piano inserts with natural leather.
19" 'Plus' (Grey) rims.
Pioneer Avic-D3 (to replace RNS-D) inc DVD, Nav, Ipod Movies, Bluetooth and much more.
'03 Daytona Grey RS6 Avant.
Bilstein PSS9's - bloody amazing.
275 Vreds.
MRC custom map with TCU.
Miltek Resonated.
Hi Flow filters.
Piano inserts with natural leather.
19" 'Plus' (Grey) rims.
Pioneer Avic-D3 (to replace RNS-D) inc DVD, Nav, Ipod Movies, Bluetooth and much more.
Didnt get round to using VAGCOM but have got a fault code reader which I used this morning after driving to work.
They are P1571 which is the left hand mount solenoid and a new one P0601 which, according to a brief search on the web, seems to be related to a failure of comms between the gearbox and engine?????
I can clear the fault codes but P0601 remains unless disconnecting the battery. I can confirm that there is no turbo cut-in at all. I'm not sure what 'limp home' mode is but without the turbos, its still perfectly drivable and is returning about 28mpg at 70 with cruise.
I have just (2 weeks ago) had a Stage 1 remap from Celtic Tuning but I think this is unrelated and may have been just a coincidence as I'm assuming that it would have faulted immediately after uploading the new map. Anyway, I'm going to reflash the ECU back to standard tonight and see what happens. I did read on here somewhere that the gearbox ECU needs reprogramming too when you have a remap. Is this essential / could be causing the problem? Any further tests I can do to try to get to the bottom of this?
As a side: Anyone know how much its likely to cost for Audi to sort the mounting????
They are P1571 which is the left hand mount solenoid and a new one P0601 which, according to a brief search on the web, seems to be related to a failure of comms between the gearbox and engine?????
I can clear the fault codes but P0601 remains unless disconnecting the battery. I can confirm that there is no turbo cut-in at all. I'm not sure what 'limp home' mode is but without the turbos, its still perfectly drivable and is returning about 28mpg at 70 with cruise.
I have just (2 weeks ago) had a Stage 1 remap from Celtic Tuning but I think this is unrelated and may have been just a coincidence as I'm assuming that it would have faulted immediately after uploading the new map. Anyway, I'm going to reflash the ECU back to standard tonight and see what happens. I did read on here somewhere that the gearbox ECU needs reprogramming too when you have a remap. Is this essential / could be causing the problem? Any further tests I can do to try to get to the bottom of this?
As a side: Anyone know how much its likely to cost for Audi to sort the mounting????
Is this a reputable map? maybe thats the problem. A bad map can throw up various errors and send the car into mong mode.
Now Sold!
'03 Daytona Grey RS6 Avant.
Bilstein PSS9's - bloody amazing.
275 Vreds.
MRC custom map with TCU.
Miltek Resonated.
Hi Flow filters.
Piano inserts with natural leather.
19" 'Plus' (Grey) rims.
Pioneer Avic-D3 (to replace RNS-D) inc DVD, Nav, Ipod Movies, Bluetooth and much more.
'03 Daytona Grey RS6 Avant.
Bilstein PSS9's - bloody amazing.
275 Vreds.
MRC custom map with TCU.
Miltek Resonated.
Hi Flow filters.
Piano inserts with natural leather.
19" 'Plus' (Grey) rims.
Pioneer Avic-D3 (to replace RNS-D) inc DVD, Nav, Ipod Movies, Bluetooth and much more.
Well I've had 2 remaps from them before. One for my A4 1.8T and one for A4 2.0T. Both never threw up problems. I think this may just be that the engine is producing more bhp/torque and parts which were on the 'edge' due to age/wear and tear are failing earlier. In my oppinion anyway. I think getting the engine mount sorted and remapping back to standard will determine if the map needs 'tweaking'.
Try getting it into an audi near you as an emergency case. I don't think it's an expensive job (in RS6 terms) - I've got about £300 in mind, but I don't know why.
I think the P codes are a little bit too generic to read much into them. It could just mean that a fault has been stored and can only be cleared with vagcom.
I think the P codes are a little bit too generic to read much into them. It could just mean that a fault has been stored and can only be cleared with vagcom.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Concerning the gearbox remap, if you don't have this and increase the power from the engine, what happens is that the gearbox asks the engine to reduce torque when it gets too close to the torque limit. This may cause the engine to ask the box to change gear. If it can't change gear, then the engine will dial down the power a bit. THis is why some people complain of odd gear changes after remapping the engine.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
So is the gearbox remap a purely software update or does it require some opening up of ECUs etc. i..e is it detectable.
As for my current fault, I will reflash the original and then book it in to get the mounting sorted and all checked. I needed to get it in to have the DRC sorted anyway as its getting worse and feels like the whole suspension is about to come off the car!!!!
As for my current fault, I will reflash the original and then book it in to get the mounting sorted and all checked. I needed to get it in to have the DRC sorted anyway as its getting worse and feels like the whole suspension is about to come off the car!!!!
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