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I have searched for a diy for the famous Oil seal replacement, without taking the engine out. Anyone got a diy or a video?

Best regards from Norway.

That's a serious job. Before you do that, consider using an oil seal restorer in your engine oil.

Nick

In another thread I wrote: Brand new and unused 'the' oil seal is a circular section highly flexible O ring. The one I dug out of my car was flat in section, rock hard and brittle to the point that it broke into many pieces when I removed it. I doubt that any product could have recovered mine - not saying that a conditioner wouldn't help if used from new though.
New seal:

Old seal:

DIYing the oil pump is not easy (ha! like anything is 'easy' on these cars), took me a long time browsing the net and reading ElsaWin before I started.
Picking and choosing the radiator removal parts of ATinOf's engine removal thread will be helpful.
Proviso - I may have forgotten everything that I did....
Usual basics, disconnect battery etc.
Drain coolant, drain oil. Depending on your workspace set up etc you may be able to get away without having the aircon depressurised but that will involve some thought and ingenuity as to supporting either the condensor or the whole radiator assembly so the pipes aren't strained. You can do this without removing the inter coolers and auxillary radiators but you may find that pipes and hoses get in the way of what you're doing.
Remove bumper, oil cooler. Disconnect and drain down the power steering cooler - this uses crimp clips which have to be cut off and like gear oil the drained fluid stinks.
Remove bonnet lock from radiator/slam panel assembly, disconnect front looms (radiator fan multi plugs at the bottom - very awkward) (horns, air con pressure switch etc on the bumper bar) if you have to remove the rad assembly entirely from the car you'll need to remove a piece of loom that's clipped along the bottom of the radiator. When you first move the radiator you then can disconnect a small loom at the top of the radiator (there's a connector a bit down on the left side) this is for the bonnet lock warning and other things I think.
Now you have a bunch of hoses to remove from the water pump before you're faced with the question of what to do with the power steering pipe that's clipped to the front of the water pump.

The metal part of the pipe winds it's way back around the LH turbo to the hydraulic pump which is just forwards of the LH drive shaft. Disconnected from the pump you can move the pipe around a bit but you've little chance (like, no chance) of removing it with the engine in place. It may be possible to get the oil pump off with the pipe in place - I was removing the turbos as well so it had to go.
Removing the thermostat cover (I'd taken it off when I took the above pic) gives you a bit more room to play with - warning, although it's held on with stainless fasteners into the alloy water pump case you may find that age and road conditions (salt etc) has locked the fasteners in place (I had one shear off) so I advise use of a lot of penetrating fluid and cleaning the threaded holes with a tap before reassembly.
There is a double metal pipe assembly for the gear box cooler which is awkwardly bolted to the pump and joins to hoses just above the subframe - not the most easy thing to remove but you'll need to do it. From what I remember I either disconnected the hoses further back or managed to push the pipes back until I could get to the clips above the subframe.
Now there are 4 oil pipes - the two main pipes (pretty easy to get to although the hex socket bolts for the front pipe may need a cut down driver) and two turbo oil return pipes.
Nearly there....
There are now 2 'retainer' brackets - the triangular one visible top left in the above picture (just remove the topmost bolt) and a 'L' shaped item towards the back of the pump on the left side. The 'L' shaped one is awkward - held vertically to the engine block by a very shallow headed 12 point M8 bolt and to the pump by a couple of smaller Torx bolts. Although ElsaWin says to just remove the two smaller ones, it's easier if you remove all three, being sure to seat the 12 point bit correctly and taking care not to strip the splines out of the bolt (no prize for guessing what I did).
Now you're left with the pump bolts - 13 if I remember correctly, with a specific loosening and tightening sequence. The front most bolt goes through a hollow dowel - it helps considerably to remove this bolt AND the sleeve (if you can) before removing the other bolts and trying to get the pump off the engine which needs a sort of forward and anti-clockwise motion to release it from the water pipe and drive shaft.
The pump will still contain a remarkable quantity of oil, some of which will of course not stay IN the pump so caution is advised.

Reassembly is, like most manuals state, the reverse of the removal.
The approved method for refiling, priming and bleeding the power steering is covered in ElsaWin.

Thanks alot!

I did it twice on mine without removing bumper, radiator, AC compressor etc. The only thing I removed was the stabilizer. But still, it was a two and half day job for me doing this without help form other persons. And it is a time of continous swearing because of limited space and too large fingers (

The most important thing is to have a plier with a bowden cable for the hose clamps of the water tube in the front and to totally remove the two angle mounts with which the oil module is fixed to the motor. Without the latter it is impossible to move the pump in its correct position. I took me alomst two hours to find this out. The second time I did this, I wanted to first remove the tube cover of the water pump to have more room to work, but in the end I failed to open one of the four allen head bolts. So I removed and reinstalled the oil pump as a whole. The final part to have the water tube above the pump in the right position is a little bit tricky, but feasible.

Best

Ruedi

The last two post are sterling advice. I’ve do mine as above , no need to remove the front of the car to get to the components of the oil pump. Is a long job todo but doable. Read up on the pump removal as there is a sequence for undoing the pump bolts. Top tip, I used a smidge if gasket sealer on the oil strainers to hold them I place otherwise they’ll keep falling out unless you have one of those car rotisserie’s and can then the engine upside down.

Hi guys,

I know the oil seal part number is N90460801, however are there any other seals or parts that require to be bought if doing the seal replacement? I'm thinking along the lines of all these items that require removal, do any of them require new seals when putting it all back together?

I plan on getting my seal replaced in the next month or so, therefore any info on additiobal part numbers recommended to be replaced while engine is out would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Roy

According to Audi it's every seal and just about every fastener that you touch.
There's the matching seal at the pump end of the shaft cover - WHT003731
1 each of 07L115446A and 07L121119A (07L121119B supplied) to seal the coolant connections.
Then there's all the seals for the oil pipes but you can get to all of these when the pump is on the car so you can always try reusing the old ones and just replace any that leak - 1x WHT003732 (that's for the hard pipe that fits on the left side of the pump) and up to 6 of WHT004094 - that's 4 at the oil thermostat block and one each at the oil cooler (if you remove the pipes from there).
If you take the coolant thermostat cover off the pump you'll probably need a 079121119C because they cook nicely.
It's recommended that the coolant connecting pipe 07L121237B is replaced as well but you should be able to reuse it. I thought I could but ended up damaging it - something I only discovered when I restarted the engine.

The 3 bolt flange that holds the infamous 50p seal. Has been revised in the parts catalogue. I also changed the tube too.

Jim Haseltine wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 11, 2020 10:35 pm

According to Audi it's every seal and just about every fastener that you touch.
There's the matching seal at the pump end of the shaft cover - WHT003731
1 each of 07L115446A and 07L121119A (07L121119B supplied) to seal the coolant connections.
Then there's all the seals for the oil pipes but you can get to all of these when the pump is on the car so you can always try reusing the old ones and just replace any that leak - 1x WHT003732 (that's for the hard pipe that fits on the left side of the pump) and up to 6 of WHT004094 - that's 4 at the oil thermostat block and one each at the oil cooler (if you remove the pipes from there).
If you take the coolant thermostat cover off the pump you'll probably need a 079121119C because they cook nicely.
It's recommended that the coolant connecting pipe 07L121237B is replaced as well but you should be able to reuse it. I thought I could but ended up damaging it - something I only discovered when I restarted the engine.

Hi Jim,

Thanks for that, very much appreciated.

Cheers
Roy

Forgot to mention that I also changed the o-rings of the water pump, because the inner started leaking. If this seal fails it looks from the outside as if the seal between the stages of the oil pump is leaking. I personally would change every seal that as is changeable otherwise you risk that you have to do some of the work twice within a too short period of time.

Totally agree with changing the other seals in the oil pump, I had the 50p seal replaced on my RS6 back in July this year, my mechanic (@ Riverside Autos Birmingham) also replaced the drive rod (i may have its name wrong) that drives the water pump and a boatload of other seals during the process.  He said replacing the additional seals can only be worth it in the long run, especially when you consider the majority of these cars would have probably done between 60-100 thousand+ miles and taking into consideration the immense pressure these components undertake. First-class job. 

Hi everyone
I’ve just purchased a c6 to go with my c5. I knew it had the oil pump leaking and will be doing it in the next couple of weeks. I spoke to TPS today and they are quoting £38 -£49 per seal. Does this sound right.
Thanks Steve

I've had it do recently and that's what I roughly paid ,they used to be a fiver

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

Some of the prices have jumped. Don't know what Audi charge now but the 50p seal N90460801 is now £2.50 +vat from Scuderia Car Parts.