DIY Back Box Modification
Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 11:05 am
First things first anyone who undertakes the mod does so at their own risk i will not be held responsible for any damage incurred during this mod. Having said that it seems like a safe mod to me.
Tools needed
-13mm socket and extension
-1/2” spline drivers
-angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disk
-mig welder
-gray high temp paint
1: get the car up on a lift or on axle stands. take the cassis brace in the middle of the exhaust by undoing the 4 spline bolts, also remove the exhaust brace using a 13mm socket.

2: next undo the 8 13mm nuts and bolts holding the 4 exhaust mounts and rubber to the underside of the car, before taking the bolts out rest the back boxes and the resonators on something i.e. a stack of wood so they stay in place.

3: now undo the exhaust clamp behind the cats or bypass pipes and slide the whole exhaust towards the back of the car until it comes free from the cat pipes. once free you can remove the chocks from under the exhaust and slide the whole system forwards and it should drop out.

4: with the exhaust off you can now cut the back boxes open and remove the glass fibre with a large screw driver. take your time and make sure not to hit the cross baffle in the back box this is under the first ridge from the front of the box so cut just behind that. One small point to note is that some people have opted to wrap the internal perforated pipe i chose not to.


5: blow the box out with an air line then clean all the burs of using a flap disk. now tack the panel you removed back into place then weld back up be careful not to use too many amps as your filling an air space. after its all welded up put a coat of HTP on the welds.

6: refit is the reverse of removal
the noise in my opinion is much improved above 3000 Rpm and close to the redline you get a much more turbo v10 sound. there is a small amount of done but nothing to bad with the radio on its barely noticeable.
Tools needed
-13mm socket and extension
-1/2” spline drivers
-angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disk
-mig welder
-gray high temp paint
1: get the car up on a lift or on axle stands. take the cassis brace in the middle of the exhaust by undoing the 4 spline bolts, also remove the exhaust brace using a 13mm socket.

2: next undo the 8 13mm nuts and bolts holding the 4 exhaust mounts and rubber to the underside of the car, before taking the bolts out rest the back boxes and the resonators on something i.e. a stack of wood so they stay in place.

3: now undo the exhaust clamp behind the cats or bypass pipes and slide the whole exhaust towards the back of the car until it comes free from the cat pipes. once free you can remove the chocks from under the exhaust and slide the whole system forwards and it should drop out.

4: with the exhaust off you can now cut the back boxes open and remove the glass fibre with a large screw driver. take your time and make sure not to hit the cross baffle in the back box this is under the first ridge from the front of the box so cut just behind that. One small point to note is that some people have opted to wrap the internal perforated pipe i chose not to.


5: blow the box out with an air line then clean all the burs of using a flap disk. now tack the panel you removed back into place then weld back up be careful not to use too many amps as your filling an air space. after its all welded up put a coat of HTP on the welds.

6: refit is the reverse of removal
the noise in my opinion is much improved above 3000 Rpm and close to the redline you get a much more turbo v10 sound. there is a small amount of done but nothing to bad with the radio on its barely noticeable.