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Can anyone advise the rough process to change the box oil?
My car has done 48k now, and I think its time to change it.
I have a pit, and basic tools.

Where is the fill hole on the RS6?
I assume its just sump off, drain, remove filter, clean sump, refit new filter and gasket and the re-fill?
Any special requirements post filling? Just run through the gears and then check level again?
How much oil should it take?

Thanks!!!
(sorry if this has been done before but search is not working)

Get yourself a copy of Elsawin because it's not that straight forward and take hours to wait for temperature to build up etc.

Gearbox is sealed, right?

How's the implications on the warranty if done by yourself?

(I'd be interested in a guide if you decide to do it, as I have been thinking of doing it myself as well!)

Ungjaevel wrote:Gearbox is sealed, right?

Not really - you can still drain and refill the ATF.

How's the implications on the warranty if done by yourself?

Burden of proof is on the dealer.
But if they can show the ATF was changed and lead to a failure then you would (understandably) be on your own.

Draining looks simple (from elsawin).
From under the car, remove the front undertray and the secondary one over the gearbox.
Between the two exhaust pipes right in the middle of the gearbox towards the very rear of the casing is a dirty great big bolt - that's the fill hole.
At the other end the gearbox "sticks out" from a cross-member support beam looking thing. There's a bolt to one side and that is the drain plug. (if you were looking at it from under the car, it would be to the front and to your right of the gearbox).

Draining easy... undo and renew plug. Catch ATF.

Filling a royal pain - need to have a "u bend" type tube and hook into the fill hole. With gearbox in "P", Fill until starts to overflow. start car for 20 secs... refill... start engine and leave running... refill. with engine idle go through all the gears (car held on footbrake) with atleast 10 sec in each one. Go to "N" and rev to 2k rpm for 60 seconds. back to P and refill.
Once done you then need Vag Com/VCDS to recode the gearbox.

Bleugh - all the gearboxes I've done have been really simple. Open fill plug and pour in oil till overflows. close plug. make tea after job well done.

From what i have heard there is no way of draining the rear diff as such,
Your just relying on gravity to drain which on something that lies flat along the length of the car is not really gonna happen, is it?? So should the diffs need done as well?.

Fifeaudi wrote:From what i have heard there is no way of draining the rear diff as such,
Your just relying on gravity to drain which on something that lies flat along the length of the car is not really gonna happen, is it?? So should the diffs need done as well?.

I've not done my diff. The GB oil was changed at 41k miles and to my surprise, the oil was very clean ( not black in colour) and there were no fine metal particles on the oil pan.

Fife.... you fitted the pipes and brakes?. Hope all are well mate.

Diff is do able?


Grizz did mine just before Xmas.

take a look at this thread started by classba - http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f= ... oil+change

Thanks guys.
So just to clarify there is no need to re-code anything after?
Also, what is the best type of oil to use?
I know on my old RR it was best to use RR own stuff and it was crazy expensive.
Cheers!

GC1978 wrote:Thanks guys.
So just to clarify there is no need to re-code anything after?
Also, what is the best type of oil to use?
I know on my old RR it was best to use RR own stuff and it was crazy expensive.
Cheers!

As above and from elsawin.

Once done you then need vag com/vcds to recode the gearbox.

My car is in for something else but I complained about the gearbox slipping occasionally. They have recommended changing the oil and re-adapt the box....

The car has done 27k miles so happy to change it....

Having watched MRC do this job and knowing how much they charge as an indie, it's not something I would attempt myself - too many opportunities to royally <beep> it up, or not put enough fluid in.

Luckily my box oil wasn't burnt, wasn't black and didn't have any metal in...was in very good condition but at 29k miles and at 5yrs old it was definitely time to do this job, and the difference is now very noticeable. My very non-interested (in anything car related) wife comments on how much nicer and smoother it is to drive...very expensive though, but amortise across the 5yrs it's reasonable I guess.

PF

Has anyone managed to refill without using the special tool vag1924? Could a normal fluid pump be used to pump the fluid in?

I did this last weekend. Used a normal gearbox filling pump but had to remove the metal hook and push the tube in/hold it there. Just be aware the exhausts are seriously hot, even at idle.