ARB’s
ARB’s
Hi all
Hope you are staying safe.
With time on my hands...thinking of upgrading my arb’s. Everyone seems to recommend these.
Are they something I can fit at home?
Any suggestions on what ones to buy and where from?
Hope you are staying safe.
With time on my hands...thinking of upgrading my arb’s. Everyone seems to recommend these.
Are they something I can fit at home?
Any suggestions on what ones to buy and where from?
Re: ARB’s
Front - easy
Rear - tad challenging but can be diy’d with right tools (some patience and couple beers).
Good luck!
Rear - tad challenging but can be diy’d with right tools (some patience and couple beers).
Good luck!
2008 RS6 Avant (Monza Silver)
- Stage II MRC tune with gearbox (720PS/850Nm)
- MIJ Powerflow exhaust (non-res)
- H&R ARBs
- Stage II MRC tune with gearbox (720PS/850Nm)
- MIJ Powerflow exhaust (non-res)
- H&R ARBs
Re: ARB’s
From (foggy) memory, there are 2 "settings", check with MRC which way round.
hard on front, soft on rear rings a bell, but really can't remember, check!
hard on front, soft on rear rings a bell, but really can't remember, check!
Ferrari 296 GTB
992 Turbo S
Ferrari 488 Spider
C6 RS6
E46 M3 convertible
Nissan 200sx mk 2
Vauxhall Senator
Ford Sierra 1.8LX
Peugeot 205 1.9 GTi
Vauxhall Belmont SRi
Vauxhall Astra 1.3
Vauxhall Astra 1.3
1st car Datsun 120 FII Lime green....yeah
992 Turbo S
Ferrari 488 Spider
C6 RS6
E46 M3 convertible
Nissan 200sx mk 2
Vauxhall Senator
Ford Sierra 1.8LX
Peugeot 205 1.9 GTi
Vauxhall Belmont SRi
Vauxhall Astra 1.3
Vauxhall Astra 1.3
1st car Datsun 120 FII Lime green....yeah

Re: ARB’s
The different bolt holes in the ends of the ARB's are used to adjust the amount of stiffness you require, the closer to the bar you go the stiffer the setting and the further away you go the softer the setting.

I asked MRC to set mine up as a stiffer Rear and softer Front (still stiffer than OEM) as that is generally accepted to promote a slightly increased oversteer feel which can slightly improve turn-in and slightly improve understeer, something the stock RS6 can really suffer from when pushing hard.
TBH the actual amount of improvement over OEM from "just" the ARB's is still relatively minor but noticeable, especially for everyday road use, but on the track when added to a slightly different driving 'technique' it becomes very noticeable how much understeer is removed (not all but most). Through a lot of trial and error I found that using what I'll call "trail acceleration", which is like trail braking but maintaining a constant tiny amount of throttle before you hit the apex (a really bad technique for most cars/bikes!) means that the Quattro system helps by pushing that newly stiffer rear around to help fight understeer. However it can/does lead to an understeer-oversteer-4 wheel drift-OMG I'M GOING TO DIE combo if done badly as I found out a few times on the track whilst figuring this out
(I only use this on the track BTW as I just don't push that hard on the road).
Additionally the car will feel generally "stiffer" than before. My best description is that if you imagine the 3 original DRC settings on the MMI (Comfort - Dynamic - Sport) as stiffness settings 1-2-3 then after the thicker ARB's are fitted it feels like 1.5 - 2.5 - 3.5 instead, with each setting feeling a little stiffer than previous but still not a stiff as the next setting would before.
Hope that helps.

I asked MRC to set mine up as a stiffer Rear and softer Front (still stiffer than OEM) as that is generally accepted to promote a slightly increased oversteer feel which can slightly improve turn-in and slightly improve understeer, something the stock RS6 can really suffer from when pushing hard.
TBH the actual amount of improvement over OEM from "just" the ARB's is still relatively minor but noticeable, especially for everyday road use, but on the track when added to a slightly different driving 'technique' it becomes very noticeable how much understeer is removed (not all but most). Through a lot of trial and error I found that using what I'll call "trail acceleration", which is like trail braking but maintaining a constant tiny amount of throttle before you hit the apex (a really bad technique for most cars/bikes!) means that the Quattro system helps by pushing that newly stiffer rear around to help fight understeer. However it can/does lead to an understeer-oversteer-4 wheel drift-OMG I'M GOING TO DIE combo if done badly as I found out a few times on the track whilst figuring this out

Additionally the car will feel generally "stiffer" than before. My best description is that if you imagine the 3 original DRC settings on the MMI (Comfort - Dynamic - Sport) as stiffness settings 1-2-3 then after the thicker ARB's are fitted it feels like 1.5 - 2.5 - 3.5 instead, with each setting feeling a little stiffer than previous but still not a stiff as the next setting would before.
Hope that helps.
***OLD*** Daytona C5 RS6 Avant - MRC'd - 500HP & 820NM (PistonHeads Link).
***NEW*** Daytona C6 RS6 Avant - MRC'd - 925HP & 1150NM (PistonHeads Link)
***NEW*** Daytona C6 RS6 Avant - MRC'd - 925HP & 1150NM (PistonHeads Link)
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 35 guests