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I know this issue has been done to death but has the actual cause been found ?

My car has done 57,000 miles and was fine a week ago, went away on business so car sat for a week. Came back and took car out, had a sprinted drive and real issues changing smoothly from 2nd to 3rd. Thought it was me being bad at changing gears after driving some rentals.

Took it out later and again when giving it the beans the clutch peddle stuck for a second or two at about 1/3 of its return position, it has now done it a few times and the clutch peddle doesn't feel right when it does it, feels light for some of its travel distance.

Don't think it's the clutch going as bit is at the same point it's always been and its not slipping.

Appreciate any input

Thanks

I remember some great diagrams banded about around six months ago showing the culprit part, and discussions between a few fellas on here about the comparisons with the equivalent BMW part which appeared to be better designed. I also recall there being an improved part. Try searching 'BMW clutch' in the B7 search box and you'll hit gold. Unless you've found it already, in which case I enjoyed learning to type on this Nexus 7 tablet

IIRC it was ArthurPE that posted the diagrams and the information on the updated part - which I think was the release bearing (not 100% sure though).

Thanks guys - i did find that post.

The issue is now getting worse,

When driving normally the clutch feels fine, althought the first 1/8 of the travel is very very light.

If i start to drive in any kind of sprinted manner the clutch peddle becomes quite soft for the first 1/3 of travel and is slow to return, if i push hard then it starts to stick about 1/3 of its return travel.

Im guessing these are all the symptons of the release bearing starting to go.

Im net getting any slipping from the actual clutch, car has done 57,950 miles - which seems early for a clutch to need replacing.

I did take out a 2 year indy warranty with the car when purchased - do you think that the bearing shoul dbe covered under the warranty of will it be deemed wear and tear.

Im also guessing the only way to fix to replace the bearing and whilst this is being done might as well change the clucth as well. Have obtained prices for the parts as follows:

Clutch Plate (079141031AX) - £66.47
Pressure Plate (07914111DX) - £66.44
Release Bearing (01E141165D) - 19.65
Clutch Operating Lever (0A2141719A) - £7.30
Fly Wheel (079105266F) - £591.55

All prices Ex vat.

Is that the correct part number for the modified release bearing ? are these prices ok ?

Based on my car only having done 57,950 miles will the fly wheel need to be replaced ? have seen some post were it has and others were it hasnt been replaced when the clutch changed.


Thanks for your help.

Have a look at this:
http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=93492

I had to do some research when my clutch was doing this (still does on occasion).
It should be covered as there is a TP number.

Good luck

Mine starting doing this on and off at 61k miles, eventually after sticking the clutch was very juddery, impossible to drive smoothly.

No slipping or any other symptons prior.

New clutch and flywheel sorted the issue.

Hi,

Know exactly what you mean as my car is in the garage having this attended to; 33k miles on the clock. Seems they are replacing a clutch return pipe and master cylinder to rectify the situation?

A

Thanks.

So first item to look at is the clutch return pipe.

If that's not the cause then it will be the release bearing.

Did those prices look ok for parts ?

If it is the release bearing would that be considered a consumable part and therefore not normally covered under a warranty ?


What is the general feeling on replacing the fly wheel when doing the clutch ? Is it down to how worn it is ? Would have thought / hoped that with only 58,000 on the clock it should still be ok (especially as others like PG had over 100k on the clock and still on original clutch)

New clutch. Just had mine done at MRC for the exact same problem, now sorted. I was told in my case that my flywheel was fine, but that may be different for different cases. If you do need flywheel replacing with single mass will be cheaper....

What is the difference between duel massvandvsingle mass apart from price ?

Where would I get a single mass one from and price ?

Cheers

Im not sure of the intricacies of it, you need to speak to someone who is a bit more knowledgable than me!

Taken from the net

"What is the Difference between a DMF and SMF?

The dual mass flywheel was designed to help smooth out the torque produced by petrol and diesel engines, by increasing the kinetic energy stored on the input shaft side of the gearbox and provide easier gear changes.

The dampening springs are usually in the clutch plate so when the clutch was replaced with the new clutch kit there was no need previously to be concerned. Now with the new dual mass design the dampening springs are in the flywheel.

Unfortunately for those who drive a vehicle with a DMF they are noted for their a high failure rates and are much more expensive to replace than a standard flywheel and clutch.

When we say more expensive, they are generally in the range of ‘double the cost’ of a standard flywheel replacement, making your clutch and flywheel replacement a much more expensive repair than it otherwise would be.

So how does it work, in order to make an engine smoother you need to increase the mass of the flywheel but as you do this the mass of the gear train effectively becomes less as a proportion of the total mass that is in motion and you will get noise, rattles and vibration from the gear train, in order to get round this you would traditionally have increased the mass of the gear train which in turn would mean that the syncro’s (the brake that matches the speed of the gears that are about to be engaged) also had to become stronger and there fore the gear change becomes heavier and more agricultural.

To get round this you have to increase the mass of the gear train without increasing the mass of the gears, this is done by splitting the flywheel into two separate masses (hence the name “dual mass flywheel”), one mass that is attached directly to the engine and one mass that is attached directly to the input shaft of the gearbox, these two halves are then separated from each other by a damper which stops the natural vibration of a large high capacity, high compression engine being transferred to the gearbox."

I feel mine has now started doing this. So can the clutch bearing or return pipe or master or slave cylinder be done without changing the clutch. Car has only done 32000

Thanks.

Mines going into local inday tomorrow for them to have a look at.

Will let you know what the outcome is once they have looked at it.

Just hoping, what ever it is, its covered by the warranty - will save me a few pennies

Yeah keep us posted will be interested to hear,
cheers