Hope this helps:
1. Firstly bumper removal as per the guide on here (cant remember who did it) - to empty the water from the system the best point if found was a water pipe under the right hand side of the car, its a T piece and has a pipe coming from the bottom that is easy to remove.
2. Remove the 2nr 10mm bolts holding the Aux rad in place (underneath) also undo the 2nr 10mm nuts to the right hand side holding the metal support frame around the rad, this will then split into 2 pieces allowing you to pull the rad down and remove.
3. You will then see the pipework behind, remove the pipe from the top left of the aux rad as you look at it (comes from the main rad - its already removed in the picture) this is the end that will be re-connected in the step 5.
4. The other end of the pipe from the t piece going behind the metal bracket in the picture needs to be diss-conected, the aux rad and pipe are then redundant and can now be removed. At this point i then removed the bracket upright for easier access, there is a 10mm nut behind that you just slacken to remove and then another 2nr 10mm nuts to the front to then remove the bracket completely (this is not shown in photos)
5. Then the end of the pipe diss-connected from the aux rad in step 3 is re-connected to the metal existing pipe that lives behind the metal bracket, use an extra clip from the redundant aux pipework to ensure a good seal (pic 1 below), re-fix all aux rad brackets etc and zip tie the water pipes to the right to allow space for the new ducting. You can see how the existing pipe has been routed in the 2nd and 3rd pictures below:
6. Then removal of the airbox flap, you can see the tab in the photo, if you use a flat blade screwdriver you can prise the flap off the part you will be using to fix the CAF too in step 8
7. At this point i plugged the end of the airbox flap vacuum tubing with a number plate fixing, its so hard/tight to get in that it doesnt even need a zip tie and makes a perfect seal.
8. Then unscrew the 2nr screws holding the back part of the airbox flap and remove, i the cut 4mm off the larger tab to enable the 89mm ducting to pass over, i also added some foam to the top half of this for the ducting to rest on and to help the seal.
9. Secure the new ducting using the fixing clip and re-fit to the airbox with the 2nr screws.
10. In the next step i removed the existing rad duct from the removed aux rad, i then drilled a top fixing hole (as this used to be secured to the removed/redundant aux rad) I also cut out a section to the top right to fit over the newly re-located pipe.
11. I used zip ties to the new drilled hole and the existing 2nr bottom holes to secure the rad duct to the existing aux rad framework, then i rounded all the plastic edges near the water pipe and added some duck tape for extra chafage protection (chafage is never good
). Then i cut the new duct to length, added the trumpet and gause and secured using the duct fixing clip.
12. The bumper re-fit (as guide) and you are finished, fill the water system back up with the G12++/distilled water as directed and leave to idle with the reseviour cap off until the fans cut in.
It makes a nice inuction noise but more importantly give the engine constant fresh air and now the flap is gone it cannot sieze up etc loosing you performance
Now for the carbon clean, gut of pre-cats, stage 2 MRC manifold and map 
(before the end of the year hopefully)As usual i accept no responsibility for anything you do using the above, this is merely here to help explain the work involved
Below are the items i bought for the ducting above (all from demon tweeks):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revotec-Flexi ... 2c666d72ae
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revotec-Alloy ... 4605b62e8a
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revotec-Alumi ... 337550c455
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revotec-Air-I ... 4168587294
Cheers,
steve
P.S - A picture of the now redundant items
