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Could someone do a write-up (with pictures if poss) of how to change the front pads please, when the time comes I want to do it myself.
Also are there "BETTER" pads that are quiet and make less dust than originals?, if so where can I get some please.

It is very simple to change the pads, a lot more easy than doing the pads on an S or an A

Steep 1) Take your wheel off.

Steep 2) Remove the cap from the brake fluid tank

Steep 3) Use a punch to tap out the 2 pins on the caliper(they tap from outside to inside)

Steep 4) Disconect the plug for the ware indicator.

Steep 5) Remove the pads by pulling straight back.

Steep 6) Push the pistons back into the caliper(much more easy if you have done steep 2)

Steep 7) Slide the pads back into the caliper making sure that the pad with the wire is in slot top/inside(you don't have to use copper grease if your uesing OEM pads as they come with extra shims on the back of the pads, just make sure that you use them and that they are pushed right back into the caliper)

Steep 8 Connect the plug for the ware indicator.

Steep 9) Place the shims on the back of the pads and replace the 2 pins and tap them home with a hammer.

Steep 10) Replace wheel and do the same on the other side.


If you get aftermarket pads and they don't have the wire out of them then use the old wires from the used pads. Cut the wire from the pad about 2" away from the plug and strip both wires back enough that you can join them together and then srink-wrap them, then conect the plug making sure that you don't have any bits of wire getting in the way of any moving parts. This will stop the pad ware indicator in the dash tell you that you have nackered pads.

Sorry no photos but it really is a a very easy job.


As for after market pads, there are a load of different types for different conditions, a lot of people recomend EBC Redstuff pads but it really depends on what you want from them.

I-want-an-RS wrote:It is very simple to change the pads, a lot more easy than doing the pads on an S or an A

Steep 1) Take your wheel off.

Steep 2) Remove the cap from the brake fluid tank

Steep 3) Use a punch to tap out the 2 pins on the caliper(they tap from outside to inside)

Steep 4) Disconect the plug for the ware indicator.

Steep 5) Remove the pads by pulling straight back.

Steep 6) Push the pistons back into the caliper(much more easy if you have done steep 2)

Steep 7) Slide the pads back into the caliper making sure that the pad with the wire is in slot top/inside(you don't have to use copper grease if your uesing OEM pads as they come with extra shims on the back of the pads, just make sure that you use them and that they are pushed right back into the caliper)

Steep 8 Connect the plug for the ware indicator.

Steep 9) Place the shims on the back of the pads and replace the 2 pins and tap them home with a hammer.

Steep 10) Replace wheel and do the same on the other side.


If you get aftermarket pads and they don't have the wire out of them then use the old wires from the used pads. Cut the wire from the pad about 2" away from the plug and strip both wires back enough that you can join them together and then srink-wrap them, then conect the plug making sure that you don't have any bits of wire getting in the way of any moving parts. This will stop the pad ware indicator in the dash tell you that you have nackered pads.

Sorry no photos but it really is a a very easy job.


As for after market pads, there are a load of different types for different conditions, a lot of people recomend EBC Redstuff pads but it really depends on what you want from them.

Thank you very much looks very easy, nice easy to follow instrutions

Does anyone have similar instructions for the rear pads?

Really easy to do. I changed mine on Monday. 5 minutes once the wheels are off.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel59.shtml

where are you guys getting the original pads from and where do you get the aftermarket pads from.
links would be great as in need of pads for the front.

I ordered some from EBC only for them to call me and say they're not available yet. I ended up going OEM from VAGParts as they're 20% cheaper than Audi. BTW Audi quoted a long delay in getting hold of them so I'm hoping VAGParts come through soon as my 'low pads' indicator just came one.

i ordered mine from EBC, only to get the wrong ones. I returned the originals, only for them to state they were damaged and i couldnt have a refund. they offered to post them back to me - if i paid the postage charges again.

I wouldnt order from EBC - much easiser and quicker to get them from a local supplier.

That article is spot on.

3 things missed out of the description above:

1) The spring clips under the pin. Pucs and hold these down to make the pin removal easier.
2) I find it it easier to push the old pads all the way out first, before sliding them out. Makes them easier to get out, plus you don't then have to push directly onto the pistons to get them back far enough to get the new pads in.
3) As mentioned in the article, the plug from the pad needs to be rotated 90 dergrees in it's mounting clip and then slid out before it can be unplugged.

Jack

Pagid do good pads. Pagid grey. They are excellent and uprated braking performance from speed is mental - they can operate at double the std temperature so even when your disc is glowing, they will grip. Downside is there is more dust than normal and they can squeak when warm.