Oil cooler threads!!! Yes or No??

[RichieRS]

So after prolonging the change of the dreaded cooler pipes I finally stripped the cooler off this morning. They weren't dripping at all but there was evidence it was getting worse from oil residue on pipe work and components just behind the cooler pipes.

So I decided to tread as carefully as possible when removing the pipes and went about splitting nuts by grinding through them on both sides and splitting into 2.

Below are the picks the threads as they stand.

Just want know what anyone's opinions are as to whether they are ok to use again?

One is certainly better than the other but to me but they both have some clean thread in amongst the bit of corrosion which is mainly between the threads

[davers6]

I think you'll be fine use some copper grease or moly grease and don't over tighten them

[RichieRS]

I think you'll be fine use some copper grease or moly grease and don't over tighten them

Cheers Dave

If I can't limit the expenditure fixing this then I will be very happy. After a good few views of this thread no one has said that's it's a no-no so I guess it will be a matter of have a go and if they strip then it's time for a new cooler.

[Robnic]

Hi,

You can use a thread file to clean them some more but go lightly being alloy. Brake manufacturers advise us to no longer use copper slip as the two disimilar metals combined can cause galvanic corrosion so defeats the object, we use tubes of Pagid grease this would be fine for your threads to ECP sell it.

You've done a good job of splitting the unions, Dremels' with cutting bits are good for that job to. Link below for thread file - use the end to match the pitch

Cheers

Rob

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THREAD-RESTOR ... SwnOJWFSkP

[davers6]

They suffer galvanic corrosion when dry I've found grease stops it and lubricates at same time but not saying there's a better product now

[RichieRS]

They suffer galvanic corrosion when dry I've found grease stops it and lubricates at same time but not saying there's a better product now

Yeah. Understand the whole galvanic corrosion bit and the only way to potentially avoid it is by water out. Will lather it in some form of water repellant (copper grease, duraloc etc) hopefully going the JHM route as well so the anodised fittings will hopefully help

[Robnic]

It needs to be wet for galavanic corrosion to take place the water acts as the electrolyte, basically any grease (without copper in it) will do, the grease will keep the water at bay and obviously lube the threads as well. Not saying Copaslip will cause it but best practice not to use it.

[rwilsonrs4]

looks ok , its not the thread that seals it its the taper where the pipes connect that is the sealing face , so if the nt spins on ok and tightens without galling it will be worth it

[RichieRS]

It needs to be wet for galavanic corrosion to take place the water acts as the electrolyte, basically any grease (without copper in it) will do, the grease will keep the water at bay and obviously lube the threads as well. Not saying Copaslip will cause it but best practice not to use it.

Cheers for the info Rob

looks ok , its not the thread that seals it its the taper where the pipes connect that is the sealing face , so if the nt spins on ok and tightens without galling it will be worth it

Yes I did see that the tapered pipe creates the seal which as you said means the thread is simply to keep the pipe tightly in place.

Guess I will just give it a whirl and see what comes of it.

Cheers guys

[Covkiller]

Pirtek can make you a set of pipes up and may well be able to pressure test the final rad with pipes fitted

[RichieRS]

Pirtek can make you a set of pipes up and may well be able to pressure test the final rad with pipes fitted

Cheers for the advice

Would they require the old pipes to work from?

[weekenny]

You can give them the old ones or just a length and what size fittings for either end.

[RichieRS]

You can give them the old ones or just a length and what size fittings for either end.