Finally got the KW v3's fitted :)

[AdrianD]

good to know about the KW3s. that's probably what I'll go with when it's time. looking good!!!
btw, how are the 20s vs. 19s?? love the look of 20s on the RS4 platform.

very little difference tbh... 20's fill the arches much better and should have been fitted as standard imo..

[RS4eddie]

good to know about the KW3s. that's probably what I'll go with when it's time. looking good!!!
btw, how are the 20s vs. 19s?? love the look of 20s on the RS4 platform.

very little difference tbh... 20's fill the arches much better and should have been fitted as standard imo..

right on.. I'm going to try and find someone in my area that has coils & 20s and go for a ride to see how it feels. gonna be a little whole til I pull the trigger though..buying a condo right now!

[MikeFish]

If you're worried about the ride on 20s you could fit 265/30/20 tyres which will give you the same rubber height as OEM 255/35/19 and unnoticeable speedo change.

[RS4eddie]

Wish I could throw some 20's on just to see how they feel... But I'm not lowered yet, so I got some time!

[sonny]

Looking good. What bump/rebound setting did you go for?

You will experience more understeer when the rear is lowered like that so I would take it up a touch

[AdrianD]

Looking good. What bump/rebound setting did you go for?

You will experience more understeer when the rear is lowered like that so I would take it up a touch

The rear is only 3mm lower than my standard SS+ was previously... I have it on the soft setting at the moment but i need to increase it a little...

[sonny]

Yea, if the rear twitches under very hard breaking then you will have to stiffen up the rear a little. Its a shame the rears are in board units, be good if they was single outboard units like the front. I did a lot of track days on my KWV3"s and did a lot of experimenting with settings, tyre pressures and wheels. One thing I never tried that i wish I had was putting stiffer rear springs on and changing the front camber (more negative camber). I do miss the RS4

[MikeFish]

How do you change the front camber? The guy at the alignment centre told me you can only adjust it on the rears.

[sonny]

Make the top hole slotted on the top suspension bolt hole, this will move the hub assembly in or out. Toe setting will have to be adjusted as they will go out. More neg camber will should give more toe in... So needs to adjusted out. Cant remember if the caster can be set up too, do you know Mike?

[sonny]

I cant remember the settings now and not kept documents. Whats the standard rear camber?

[MikeFish]

Not sure about adjusting caster.

Standard rear camber is between -0deg50' and -1deg50'.

The front should be between -0deg26' and -1deg16'. Mines sits at -1deg50'

[sonny]

Do you know what, im talking rubbish regarding the slotted fronts, due to the double wishbone set up think you will need to upgrade to adjustable top mounts and or adjustable control arms. I looked into it all when I was going to turn the RS into a full blown track car.

Whats the toe settings? How did you get -1.5 deg?

[MikeFish]

Front toe should be between 5' and 15'. Mine were -12' and -10' so massively out. I noticed because the inside edges of my tyres were very worn prematurely. I assume it must have been a side effect of when I had all the suspension work done (new shocks, lowering srpings and new arms). My toe is now spot on at 11'.

My front camber must have gone so negative due to the lowering srpings I guess? My rear camber is set just inside tolerance at about -1deg46' (limit is -1deg50') as this helps tyre clearance.

[sonny]

Of course, lowering, induces neg camber and that induces toe in (in most cases). Do you do your own set up Mike?

[MikeFish]

No, I wish, even if I knew how to make all these adjustments I just don't have the time anymore. I'd still like a car lift though. I have the space for one but not the height.