VCDS Error code

[Yanos]

I am getting a flat spot in the power at around 4-5k mainly in 3rd or 4th. I have scanned using VCDS and will try the flap test sticky as soon as I get a chance to.

In the mean time can anyone spot anything obvious from these results? Thanks for any help

1 Fault Found:
008224 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 2)
P2020 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 126048 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 780 /min
Load: 22.3 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 57.0°C
Temperature: 20.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843

[Reevesy]

If the flaps function ok using VCDS then it's definitely the sensor that needs replacing (its a common fault, so get a new one not a second hand one). Bank 2 sensor is on the back right of the inlet manifold and only has 2 torx fixings and a wiring plug, but its a pig to change as it requires the inlet manifold lifting in order to get to it!

[Yanos]

If the flaps function ok using VCDS then it's definitely the sensor that needs replacing (its a common fault, so get a new one not a second hand one). Bank 2 sensor is on the back right of the inlet manifold and only has 2 torx fixings and a wiring plug, but its a pig to change as it requires the inlet manifold lifting in order to get to it!

Cheers mate, I will run the flap test as soon as I get a chance.

[Yanos]

Tonight I managed to run the flap test.

On the intake Manifold bank 1 test, none of the white plastic arms moved at all. Is this now looking like a vacuum leak? Are there further tests I can run?

The EPC light came on too on the drive home!

[kay]

The plastic arms didn't move? Hmm. They are not broken are they? Apparently you can move them manually using a flathead screwdriver to check if they are fine, but be gentle as they are quite fragile. Duff sensors (potentiometers) is a common fault. About £75 retail from dealers. I'm not sure which side is bank 2, thought it was left hand side with sensor at front, as you're looking at engine bay from outside, in which case a bit easier to get to??
An easy check of vacuum is to check if exhaust valves are working via sport button. Also underneath the air box somewhere, there's a vacuum hose that can plugged off and pressed on hand to see if there's a good level of suction/ vacuum.
It could be a fair bit of carbon build up on flaps causing flap not to open/close properly and can only be checked properly by removing manifold. There's a solenoid somewhere as well that can cause these issues and can be easily replaced.

[yorkie]

Has the EPC light stayed on? If it has could be faulty sensor or loss of vacuum.
If it comes and goes i.e. intermittent then probably sticking actuator shaft due to wear.

[ROY]

Could be air filter flap solenoid
Knock the error code off and isolate the vac hose to the air filter flap - the vac hose has a joining section at the front right of the engine bay (think its tucked under the slam panel) separate the hoses and plug the engine side
Run the car again and see if the code throws up
If it doesn't its the air filter flap solenoid - common fault - the solenoid splits apart and causes an massive leak.
I changed mine and posted pics somewhere on the forum
Other fault I had was the N/S flap mechanism chaffing on a vac pipe restricting its movement

[Yanos]

Thanks guys I will give these things a go and see what happens.

Roy by Air filter flap do you mean the power flap on the air box? I've removed that and plugged the vac line after installing the Revolution Intake

EPC light is intermittent, comes on when it feels like it and seams to go off when engine is breaking, as in when I change from 3rd to second for a corner.

Will updater after I've tinkered some more!

[yorkie]

Sounds similar to a problem I had, light was intermittent and twice I started to drive to the dealers and it went out on the way. Drove around for about a year like it, sometimes it didn't come on for weeks and the code was the same as you have. Finally came on when at the dealers for MOT and they replaced the manifold under warranty.

[Yanos]

Sounds similar to a problem I had, light was intermittent and twice I started to drive to the dealers and it went out on the way. Drove around for about a year like it, sometimes it didn't come on for weeks and the code was the same as you have. Finally came on when at the dealers for MOT and they replaced the manifold under warranty.

Yeah its coming and going when it feels like it now. I've thrown the towel in and sending it to Autohaus to get fixed next week. Ill have no hair left if I keep trying to figure it out myself!

[Yanos]

So the sensor is fecked for sure.....

They are also saying the flaps may be broken but will not know until they take it apart to replace the sensor, and that could mean a new inlet manifold?

Oh Audi

[TonyHayers]

The flaps won't be broken, unless you dropped a spanner in the air intake by accident or something. You've probably got some carbon gunk interfering with the flap mechanism so that they're either not able to extend or retract within the specified limits.

Don't buy a *new* inlet manifold whatever you do. In fact, while the manifold is off, get them to remove the flaps and give the ports a good clean.

[kay]

+1 what tony says

[Yanos]

The flaps won't be broken, unless you dropped a spanner in the air intake by accident or something. You've probably got some carbon gunk interfering with the flap mechanism so that they're either not able to extend or retract within the specified limits.

Don't buy a *new* inlet manifold whatever you do. In fact, while the manifold is off, get them to remove the flaps and give the ports a good clean.

That's what I was thinking, but I had a carbon clean a month ago. Could there still be a wee bit of build up affecting the flaps? I have looked into de flapping, would this need a re-map after?

[Charliesheen]

Hi fellas,
I've been getting the same fault code and intermittent Epc and emissions light on the dash but I also have what feels like the rev limiter cutting in at 6000 rpm.
Car drives fine with no limp home mode and if I steadily build revs it will continue on to 8000rpm but most of the time it splutters at 6000rpm and cuts power..
Driving me nuts