Mike's big RS4 stereo project!

[MikeFish]

They can talk to the dash for the audio type information just not for the sat nav directions.

Which would only be a software change, as the radio information and the nav directions are both communicated via the Infotainment CAN bus - I guess the real reason it's not available is that not enough Audi owners retrofit them for it to be worth the investment (time & money) in writing the extra software.

I suppose it is relatively easy to get text to display especially if you just take the track name on 1 line and the artist underneath, but to design the sat nav layout and symbols and which bits of info to display takes a lot more work.
If only I had the skills and the time to do it msyelf!
Having said that, it is quite nice to be able to still use the trip computer whilst using the sat nav, something that as far as I am aware is not possible with the RNS-E.

[sync24]

Mike/Dave

Can you guys confirm if the factory BT MIC in the overhead light unit will work with any third party double din unit - or do you have to replace it with the one provided with the new kit. I think I might be able to do this swap out myself as I think most kit should be plug and play especially with the fitting/loom kits that are available. I am not sure about the MIC replacement though as I would not be confident about tearing the overhead unit apart and running the cable properly.

[PetrolDave]

Mike/Dave

Can you guys confirm if the factory BT MIC in the overhead light unit will work with any third party double din unit - or do you have to replace it with the one provided with the new kit.

Can't answer that directly as each HU will have a different MIC input circuit.

All I can say is that people who have tried to use the FISCON mic with the Audi BT and vice versa have had problems.

[PetrolDave]

Having said that, it is quite nice to be able to still use the trip computer whilst using the sat nav, something that as far as I am aware is not possible with the RNS-E.

Not simultaneously, but using the SET button you can cycle between Trip 1, Trip 2, Nav Instructions and DIS Setup - so you can check the Trip then return to the Nav Instructions using just the SET button on the steering wheel (assuming you've got the "proper" RS4 wheel).

[esp_mm-270]

Very inspiring posts I WILL sort my sounds out! One day........

[MikeFish]

Latest update
I tried sticking 12v on the handbrake detection cable to trick it into thinking the handbrake was always on to allow the video to continue once the handbrake was released but as i suspected it was cleverer than me. Given the lack of UK devics I found to Video In Motion I figured that might be all I need to do as the US ones require a combination of handbrake and foot brake presses to work (with their mainly auto boxes) but nope, it didn't work. So I got a cheap little device from the US to trick it. All it need was a 12v, an ground wire and connection to the hanbrake input on the stereo and job done! Now my kids can watch music videos whilst driving rather than just looking at static album art. Of course, I don't look at it whilst driving (it is against the law after all).
One of the problems I had was skipping tracks whilst having the sat nav on full screen, or skipping video tracks as either of these meant multiple presses and even when on the music screen it would involve me looking at the screen. I could change tracks on the RNS-E without looking or when on the sat nav screen as it has a hard buttonI can feel out without distracting my eyes from the road.
So my temporary solution to this is an infra red remote control mounted on a bracket fixed with velcro to the top on the cigaratte lighter cover. I can remove it when parked by just pulling it up and slinging it in door pocket out of view. Works nice, but it's not a perm solution.



For a longer term solution I either need to get a new steering wheel or, which I think will be my first option, wire in a Sony stalk control like this:



This a beuaty of a little remote. It is hard wired to the stereo so no aiming issues / flat batterys etc. It is so well designed & lovely to use and so easy without having to look away from the road. And lots of functions too.
The only problem is that this control is basically a resistor network and works by changing the resistance for different functions, and the Alpine headunits do not work in this way. They required a digital code for each function. This means I need to convert the resistor values to digital codes. I'm pretty sure I can get a universal steering wheel adapter to do this conversion as I'm pretty sure a lot of OEM car manufacturers use the resistor network for their steering wheel remotes. It's just a case of trying a few until I find one that works.

Also, a while ago I made a little mounting for the processor controller that used to live in the ashtray. I don't think I mentioned this previously but you might have noticed it when I showed a photo of the new head unit:



Here's a close up, although the flas has made it look very dusty!



While I'm trying to sort out the remote issue, I am also looking at doing something with the rear shelf. Possible sticking a couple of subs in it rather than behind the seat. Or maybe mounting subs / crossover in there to make some more room.
My biggest bug bear at the moment though is that I am still not using those lovely Focal Utopia tweeters that I paid a fortune for. I have been looking at getting a spare dashboard and chopping it up to mount the tweeters and mids, but struggling to find out how dificult it will be to remove and repalce the whole upper dash (without breaking the passenger airbag. The other option is to mount them on the A-pillars but they will stick out quite a bit. The mids are too big to go up in the OEM tweeter position unfortunately, and they really need to be mounted close together in a 3 way set-up.

[MikeFish]

It's been a busy few days.
First I stripped the rear shelf out to look at hiding the big crossover or possibly installing a couple of subs on it. More on this in a mo.
Then I stripped the interior trim on the bootlid and removed the number plate light holder, boot handle / lock to look at installing a camera.
Then I started my attempt at modding the R8 power steering fluid cap to fit the B7. More of that on my modding thread.

First off, once the back shelf was stripped and the Bose subwoofer removed, there was a nice perfectly round 9" cutout for a new subwoofer. There is a similar sized indentation on the other side of the shelf that could have been cut out to match. I wondered if my JL Audio 12W7 might drop in to this 9" hole. 2 of these on the back shelf could work out well. The amount of voume 2 of these could use in a box is probably about the same volume as is available in my boot so would effectively be mounted in a box rather than free air. I know this sub requires a cut out of 11" but I thought if I raised it slightly with an MDF ring it might just drop in. However, this was a complete no-no. Unless you have seen one of these in real life it is difficult to comprehend their sheer size (depth) and weight. It was so big it would not fit between the rear shelf and windscreen to even attempt to drop it in.





And 2 10's would just be drowned in that huge boot. 2 10" free air subs might go in and work reasonably but probably not a big improvement (if any) over the 18"er already in there. I did toy with the idea of getting another 18 to keep it company but not quite sure. I'm after quality rather than qunatity and another sub that size would detract from the quality and turn it into a bit of a boomer.

And once the rear shelf was off (which was a bit of a pain to remove) there wasn't any depth to the shelf at all. Thought I might hide the crossover in there but there just ins't any room. That Bose subwoofer is surprisingly thin!

So I figured I'd make the most of the shelf out and took the oppertunity to deaden the back shelf metal work and use the deadening material to block all the holes from both top and bottom.



Top finished:


Note there is a rectangular hole not covered near the rear. I had to leave this out as it is required to reconnect the centre brake light as the rear shelf is being installed. I have a pieve of deadening cut to size ready to stick from the underneath, I just ran out of time last night.

I forgot to take photos of the underside but I can do that later as it has to trim covering it up.
Also, it was quite annoying driving with the rear shelf out as I was usrprised to see it throw up an error for the centre brake light not working.

So then the shelf went back on (still haven't fully got the C-pillars back into the shelf yet, need to try it again at the weekend). With the backshelf out the bass turned really poor and low (level, not freqquency). Now it's been deadened it has really tightened the bass up (an 18" sub mounted free air would expect to not be tight but low and wallowy). Makes it sound like it has been installed in a sealed box now rather than a ported one. It is much punchier. This is not how I prefer my bass. Tight yes, but I prefer lower kick rather than upper punch but this can be sorted with a little eq. I will also deaden the boot lid once the camera and wires are in.

After I removed the number plat light / lock assembly I was ready to order a replacement part that incorproates a camera.
I had a few choices here. If I still had the RNS-E I might have gone for the Q7 equivalent as there is a kit for all the wiring already in existence. They only downside to this one is the extortionate price for the Audi bits and it would also mean losing the actual key lock as the Q7 doesn't have one here. Not a big deal as I don't think I have ever used it once but I don't like to lose functionality.
However, the option I went for is almost a like for like repalcement (with key lock) but the actual handle isa little narrower to make room for the camera. As it's an aftermarket jobbie the quility will not be as good as the Q7 one but this is much cheaper and has better functionality.

OEM B7 unit:

[MikeFish]

Copied from my other thread s I wasn't sure if this belonged in the general modding thread or the stereo one so here it is again for futre reference just in case you only read this one:

Rear camera time!

I decided to go with the new head unit I should make the most of the reverse camera input. I looked at various options including the OEM one from the Q7. This is a straight fit but had 3 down sides for me.
1. I would lose the boot lock as there is no place for it on the rear panel from the Q7 (not a big deal as I've never used it but you never know!).
2. It comes with an Audi connector on the camera rather than an RCA phono type that my head unit needs.
3. It's bloody expensive compared to aftermarket versions.

I found one on ebay from China that came to less than £50 for the panel and camera. The camera has an phono plug on the end (perfect) and the rear panel loses no functionality as it keeps the lock by making the handle narrower.
There was a bit of to-ing and throwing between the ebay seller and myself trying to establish the exact right version I needed but she was very helpful and after a few emails she guided me the right way and I ended up getting the right version. I couldn't unerstand the differences until I got the unit and realised you had to take the handle microswitch from the original unit and transfer it onto the new one, which is an all in one part than has the numbr plate light connector and the wiring for them too.

There were 2 versions of the actual camera too. The newer one used a Sony camera but had Sont CCD or something like that permanently showing on the screen which I didn't like so went for the slightly cheaper one (only a couple of pounds difference) as the specs were very similar.

So, here's the 2 back panels side by side before I transferred all the bits across:

You can see there how they have narrowed the handle to make way for the camera but still keep the lock too (lock is removed for these photos)

Close up of the camera


The new panel with the micro-switch and rear number light connector / wiring about to be fitted:


The new one with all the bits added:


Fitted:


This is how it looks. The multi coloured guides are part of the camera:


My headunit also has some guides which are switchable and adjustable. Here they are on (as well as the camera's built in guides) but have not been adjusted yet:


All in all I'm really pleased. The rear panel is very good quality especially considering how cheap it was. I did snap one of the screw holders from overtightening but doesn't make any difference it is still well secure.

The connector that needs to be plugged into the camera is too big to pass through the boot lid cable protector. I need to cut the end off, pass the wire through, then soder a new plug on the end. Also need to run the rest of the wires in properly too. I didn't need to run a wire from the reverse switch or reverse lights to activate it as my headunit picks up a reverse signal from the canbus already.
The only issue with it at the moment is that the night vision mode is fairly poor. I might try upgrading the reverse lamps to see if that will help. The camera I fitted to my truck works perfectly well at night so not sure if it is the camera or lack of lighting yet.

[MikeFish]

Once the wiring has gone in the boot lid properly for the camera I can sound deaden it then put the covers back on.

I also bought a steering wheel remote control adapter. This little unit is designed to adapt OEM steering controls to control aftermarket head units. I thought I might be able to get it to adapt the Sony remote mentioned above to control my Alpine. Havent managed to get it to work yet but I'm still trying. The trouble is you are supposed to conect to a number of different wires depending on what car you have (for the OEM controls) but as that's not what I;m doing I have to try and work out which wires I should attach to. Fingers crossed.

[MikeFish]

I emailed the company that make the steering wheel remote adapter about connecting the hard wired Sony remote and they emailed some back with fitting instructions for that exact controller. They also said it auto detect it and work at right away. Their fitting instructions worked a treat and it did recognise it but the functions were mapped to the wrong buttons and some didn't work at all. A quick little bit of manual programming and away I went. Job done! Now I can change tracks etc without having to divert my eyes from the road (which I previously had to).

[MikeFish]

Done this ages ago but only just realised I hadn't posted the pictures yet.

I finally got round to fitting the Focal Be Utopia tweeters. The only way I could get them in stealthily was to buther the original tweeter housings. So with my Dremel I took away most of the plastic that held the original tweeters in place (and my previous Focal ones too) as they are just too darned big to fit in. Then the only way I could think of holding them in place and at the right angle was to hot glue them in place. Once back in the car, it looks do different to OEM but sounds much better. Still need to re-eq now with the new tweeters as it sounds far too bright. Plus I don't think I've eq'ed it with the new headunit yet. And I also have the JL Audio 12w7 sub back in the boot (in a box) as I had to take the 18" out when I went on holiday in the summer. First time the box has been in since I opended up the rear arm rest for the 18" and deadened the boot lid and rear deck.





Oh, I don't think I mentioned that before; I sound deadened the boot a while ago too. Makes the boot lid too heavy for the auot opening to list though!


Enjoying the more solid and controlled bass from the box combined with the more solid boot at the minute! Turn up the BASS!!!

[rob-s]

I have been thinking of upgrading my present Focal (PS165V) speakers. How good do you rate these Focal Utopia series speakers?

I have considering these: http://www.focal.com/en/utopia-be/367-1 ... assif.html

[MikeFish]

I have been thinking of upgrading my present Focal (PS165V) speakers. How good do you rate these Focal Utopia series speakers?

I have considering these: http://www.focal.com/en/utopia-be/367-1 ... assif.html

I think one of the best single changes in my system was going from the medium range Focal mid bass to the Utopia ones. This really change the sound for me. I've never heard the set-up you mentioned there but it looks like the same tweeter (the mid also looks very simialr but is a different unit). Changing the tweeter made a difference but like I said in my post earlier, I need to adjust the eq to appreciate the gains. Until then it is sounding a bit shrill and bright. I'm also still using the crossover from the mid range set of Focals which is greatly inferior to the passive Utopia one. And if that wsn't enough, it is actually a 3 way set that I'm running as 2-way until I find somewhere to fit the mid range unit. The reason I'm still using the cheaper crossover is that the Utopia one is huge and is a stereo unit so needs to ideally go in the boot and then have at least 2 sets of speakers cables run into each door (not easy). I could rig it so that I use the OEM speaker wires for the tweeters but I'd still need to run a set of wires to each door.

I'd expect to hear a difference between your current speakers and the new ones, but how much of a gain will depend on what you are feeding them. Listening to mp3s and using the bose amplifier I think your gains will be restircted.

[theperm]

Tell me does the RS4 bose system run a separate speaker wire to door woofer and another for the tweeter? In my old A4 B6 there was a single wire for both and a capacitor in the door for the crossover. A bit lame so i had to run my own wire in to the door for the tweeter coming from my crossovers. Not a fan of putting crossovers in the door, mine weere to big anyhow. Just curious as i haven't opened my RS4 doors apart yet to see what way its wired. I like what you done with the bose connector, might do the same, so was wondering if it had separate wires for tweeters?

Can you also provide the link to the ebay guy selling the mdf rings, i couldn't find him. Thanks

[MikeFish]

It's no different to a B6 I'm afraid. And the cable route into the door is already pretty tight.